Guest Writer: Megan Zaniewski, author of Stumpwork Studio: Mastering 3-D Embroidery with some tips for selecting the correct needle type for your stumpwork embroidery projects!

Posted on April 14, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Hi! I’m Megan Zaniewski, author of Stumpwork Studio: Mastering 3-D Embroidery (C&T Publishing), and I’m guest writing for Colonial Needle today to share some tips for selecting the correct needle type for your stumpwork embroidery projects.

What is Stumpwork?

Stumpwork is the term used to describe any and all types of 3-dimensional embroidery. It includes a wide variety of techniques that create varying degrees of depth and dimension. Everything from slightly raised embroidery stitches to fully sculptural free-standing designs fall under the broad umbrella of stumpwork. In this guide, I will be sharing needle recommendations for the following stumpwork embroidery techniques: surface beading, thread-wrapped beading, beaded slips, wireslips, fabric applique, felt padding, and dimensional stitches.

Why is needle choice important?

Did you know there are 100’s of needle variations? Navigating the many needle options out there can feel overwhelming even for an experienced embroiderer. And though the differences between different types of needles may seem slight or insignificant, choosing the appropriate needle for your project can make a big difference in both your stitching experience and the quality and look of your finished work.

When worked with stranded cotton embroidery thread, many stumpwork techniques can be accomplished with Sharps or Embroidery/Crewel needles . In some cases, though, you may find it easier or even necessary to work with other types of needles. While it can be helpful to have a small variety of needles available on hand, you certainly do not need to stockpile every needle type. With just the following 6 needles, you’ll be able to comfortably accomplish a wide variety of stumpwork techniques.

An Overview of My 6 Essential Needles

Needles have four variables: their point profile, diameter (i.e. thickness), eye size, and length. Understanding each needle type’s unique characteristics and how those features affect its function will help inform your needle choice.

Sharps
These are general purpose sewing needles with a sharp point and small, rounded eye. They are well suited for many embroidery techniques and stitches done with sewing, silk, and cotton thread.
Embroidery/Crewel
Embroidery/Crewel needles have a longer eye than a standard Sharps needle that can better accommodate multiple strands of thread. It also makes threading the needle easier. Otherwise, their length, diameter and point profile is the same as a Sharps needle. They are also suitable for many embroidery techniques worked in silk and cotton thread.
Tapestry
Tapestry needles feature a blunt tip, large eye, and thick profile. They are designed to accommodate thicker, often delicate fibers like tapestry wool. The needle’s thick diameter creates a hole large enough for the thread to pass through the fabric easily with very minimal friction (which can cause wear and tear). Its blunt tip does not pierce fabric well, so this needle is best suited for canvaswork. The blunt tip also makes it an ideal needle for working dimensional stitches in stumpwork designs, such as woven stitches and detached stitches which require careful maneuvering apart from a fabric base.
Chenille
Chenille needles are identical to Tapestry needles in length, diameter, and eye size. These features make it well suited for working with thicker, textured, or more delicate specialty fibers like tapestry wool, silk ribbon, wool-silk blends, metallic threads, linen threads, and more. The difference between a Chenille needle and Tapestry needle is its point profile. A Chenille needle has a sharp point, enabling the needle and fiber to pass through even thick or coarse fabrics easily.
Milliner
Milliner needles are similar to a Sharps needle. They have the same sharp point profile and small rounded eye as a Sharps needle, but they are longer. Their long length and small eye make them helpful needles for working dimensional stitches that require wrapping the thread around the needle multiple times (like Cast-on Stitch and Bullion knots).
Beading
Beading needles are made from steel wire, with a sharp point and a very long and thin profile. The eye is also small, allowing the needle to pass through beads and sequins easily without getting stuck. The long length allows you to easily scoop up and thread multiple beads at once.

With the defining features of each needle type in mind, let’s take a look at some stumpwork techniques and my recommended needle for each one.

Needles for Beading Techniques

Beads are a highly versatile material in stumpwork embroidery. As surface decoration, beads can elevate a design with texture, dimension, and sparkle. Beading needles are most often the suitable choice for embroidering with beads. Their elongated and uniformly thin profile allows you to easily scoop and thread even the smallest seed beads. Keep in mind, these needles are very long and pliable so they are prone to bending if used too roughly. If you find beading needles too difficult to maneuver, you can try working with a thin-sized embroidery/crewel needle such as a size #11 instead. This size will still accommodate many bead sizes, even the smallest seed beads.

Surface beading is used to mimic bubbles and add sparkle to this stumpwork swan design

Beads can also be used to create more sculptural forms with a technique called a beaded slip. With this technique, beads are embroidered onto a flat surface before being sewn into a rounded shape. This technique is helpful for recreating things like berries or a flower center, though it can be modified in many ways for an entirely different look (ex. try using French knots instead of beads). Beading needles are again the most suitable needle for working this technique, though thin embroidery/crewel needles may also be used as an alternative for most bead sizes.

Another way that beads can be used as a sculptural element in an embroidery design is through a bead-wrapping technique. Bead-wrapping involves covering the bead (or another similar bead-like form made from clay, paper, cotton, etc) with thread. Wrapped-beads can be used in innumerous ways. In nature motifs, they can serve as berries, insect eyes, flower buds, seeds, eggs, and more. Beads with larger holes make the best forms for this technique, as they can better accommodate the thread’s bulk as it is wrapped around the bead. Because the interior of the bead can become quite densely packed with thread, I recommend using a chenille needle for this technique. Its strong and sharp profile will prevent it from bending or breaking under pressure as you pass it through the densely packed bead.

Wrapping a bead with cotton thread and a chenille needle

Blueberries made from thread-wrapped beads

Needles for Raised Stitches

Raised stitches are a simple yet effective way to add texture and dimension to an embroidery design without additional materials or supplies. All you need is a needle and thread.

The type of needle you need will depend on the type of stitch and fiber you are working with. For many stitches worked in stranded cotton embroidery thread, a Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle is suitable. For example, Turkey Stitch, which produces a tufted rug-like effect that can be trimmed and shaped, can be worked with cotton thread and a crewel needle to add a fuzzy texture to a design.

Turkey stitch worked in stranded cotton onto the wings and body of an Io moth

When working the same stitch with larger or more delicate fibers, such as silk or wool, I recommend using a chenille needle. The thicker profile will allow the threads to pass through the fabric more easily, preventing fraying or breakage.

Turkey Stitch moss and grass created with a variety of wool and silk threads and a chenille needle

If you find yourself struggling with some raised stitches, you may find that switching to a Milliner’s needle makes all the difference. For example, stitches that require you to wrap the thread around the needle multiple times before passing it through the fabric, such as French Knots and Bullion Knots, are best executed with a Milliner’s needle. Its long, straight shaft has an even diameter from tip to eye, allowing the wrapped threads to glide through more easily, preventing tangles and knots.

With other dimensional stitches that require you to weave or manipulate the thread in more complicated maneuvers (such as the Woven Picot or a Brussels Stitch), I suggest using a tapestry needle. Its blunt tip will help prevent you from piercing the thread as you weave the stitches.

An acorn cap stitched with a woven Brussels Stitch, using a wool-silk blend thread and tapestry needle

These are just a few examples of the many ways that stitches can be used in stumpwork designs, giving your embroidery a 3-dimensional effect. If you are trying out a new-to-you stitch and are unsure of what needle to use, as a general rule, consider the characteristics of the thread you are working with (ex. stranded cotton vs a more delicate fiber) and how the stitch is executed (ex. surface, woven, wrapped, etc). These factors can help guide you.

TIP: For stitch tutorials and inspiration, I highly recommend checking out the Stitch Bank by the Royal School of Needlework, a free and comprehensive resource that includes over 500 stitches with information about their history, applications, and full step-by-step video and photo instructions.

Needles for Wirework

Wires can be used in a variety of different ways to add dimension to an embroidery design. One popular and easy-to-learn technique is called a wireslip, where wire is embroidered along the edge of a design. This framework allows you to cut out the embroidery and either display it alone or attach it to a base as a 3-dimensional feature. When embroidering over the wire, it is important to keep your stitches as neat and precise as possible and work with a fine yet strong cotton or silk thread. For this reason, I always recommend using a Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle when working a wireslip (a size #10 is ideal when working with 1 strand). The thin point and profile of these needles allow you to stitch as closely to the wire as possible, resulting in a clean and tidy edge to your design.

Embroidering over a wireslip leaf with a single strand of cotton thread and a size 10 embroidery needle

Wings worked with the wireslip technique give this Old World Swallowtail butterfly a 3-dimensional, life-like look

Needles for Padding and Applique

Fabrics can serve as more than just a base for your embroidery. With a couple of applique techniques, fabrics can add height and texture to your embroidery design.

Felt padding is a beginner-friendly technique that creates a raised shape to embroider over. In this technique, layers of wool felt are stitched to your fabric base in increasing size, resulting in a firmly padded form that rises above the fabric background. These wool felt pieces are appliqued in place with a single strand of cotton thread. To ensure that you are creating neat stitches as close to the edge of the felt as possible, I recommend using a size 10 Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle.

Felt padding stitched to a fabric base, ready to be embroidered

The finished stumpwork river otter embroidered over the padded base

Fabrics can also be used to add visual interest to a design with padded applique. Textured fabrics, such as fleece, velvet, faux fur, leather, and vinyl are ideal for this technique as they offer interesting textures and do not fray when cut. The cut fabrics can either be sewn directly to the base or padded with a layer of stuffing between it and the base for extra height. This technique is also worked with a single strand of cotton thread near the edge of the fabric. So to keep your stitches precise and well-disguised, I again recommend using a size 10 Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle.

Appliqueing grass on a fabric base with a single strand of cotton thread and an embroidery needle

A hedgehog stitched with the padded applique technique

These are just a few of the ways you can explore stitch, fiber, and technique to create 3-dimensional embroidery designs. For more ideas and in-depth step-by-step tutorials, please check out my book, Stumpwork Studio: Mastering 3-D Embroidery. I hope that this needle selection guide helps take some of the guesswork out of choosing the right needle for your projects, especially if you are exploring stumpwork embroidery for the first time. While this guide can help you make an informed choice between your needle options, please remember there are no rules when it comes to embroidery. Above all else, stitching should be comfortable and fun. So, I encourage you to experiment with different needle types to get a feel for what works best for you.

Happy stitching!

Teacher Tips & Techniques: Encouraging Stitchers to Sew On and On

Posted on December 23, 2025 by Colonial Needle

Featuring the Hearts to You Mug Rug Project

Reflecting on years past, when I was preschool age, my parents and I lived in an old three-story schoolhouse in Venice, Ohio. It sat quietly in the country, across the road from a cemetery, and was partitioned down the middle—our family on one side, a family of six on the other. I remember tagging along with my mother to the feed store, carefully choosing three printed chicken feed sacks that matched just right. She hand-stitched them into a new dress for me—clothing made from what is now considered a collector’s item.

Perhaps living in a schoolhouse and wearing feed-sack dresses was an early hint of what was down the road for me: a lifelong love of stitching, teaching, and encouraging others to create with their hands.

Over the years, I’ve taught countless “newbies” and not-so-newbies alike. My goal has always been the same—to help students feel confident, capable, and excited enough to keep sewing long after the class ends. The Hearts to You Mug Rug project is a perfect vehicle for that mission. It’s approachable, adaptable, and full of opportunities for learning and creativity.

Hearts to You Mug Rug Project

Fabrics

5” square felted white wool (top circle)
5” square felted red wool (bottom circle)
2 ¼” x 7” felted red wool (heart appliqués)

Notions

Step-by-Step Project Instructions

This simple wool appliqué project is designed to build confidence while introducing or reinforcing basic hand-stitching skills. Encourage students to work at their own pace and remember: progress matters more than perfection.

Step 1: Prepare the Base Circles

Using the 5” felted white wool square and the 5” felted red wool square, cut one circle from each.

The white circle will be your top/background.
The red circle will be the base layer.

Tip: If students struggle with cutting smooth curves, provide a paper template or encourage slow, small scissor movements rather than long cuts.

Step 2: Layer and Secure

Place the white circle on top of the red circle, centering it carefully.

Use pins, clips, Roxanne Basting Glue, or a few temporary basting stitches to hold the layers together.
Check that the red shows evenly around the edges for a neat border.

Teaching moment: This is a great time to discuss alignment, balance, and how layering adds visual interest.

Step 3: Cut the Heart Appliqués

From the 2 ¼” x 7” piece of felted red wool, cut two small hearts.

Hearts do not need to be identical—slight variations add charm.
Encourage students to draw heart shapes lightly with pencil if helpful.

Ask: How could you change the shape or size of the hearts to make this project your own?

Step 4: Position the Hearts

Arrange the hearts on the white circle until you’re happy with the placement.

Overlapping hearts create depth and interest.
Once positioned, secure with pins, glue, or a few basting stitches.

Visual learners benefit from seeing multiple layout examples before stitching.

Step 5: Thread the Needle

Thread a John James Chenille Needle, size 22 with Presencia Perle Cotton size 8, color #9250.

Use a Needle Grip-It if needed to improve control and comfort.
Tie a knot at the end of the thread.

Word clue reminder: “The older I get, the finer I am.” (Thicker thread = larger needle.)

Step 6: Stitch the Hearts in Place

Using a simple blanket stitch or whip stitch, appliqué the hearts onto the white circle.

Keep stitches evenly spaced.
Remind students that stitches don’t need to be perfect to be effective.

Encouragement: An error is not a terror! Wool is forgiving and easy to adjust.

Step 7: Stitch the Circles Together

Stitch around the edge of the white circle, securing it to the red circle beneath.

A blanket stitch works well and adds a decorative finish.
Rotate the project as you stitch to maintain consistent spacing.

Tip: Take breaks to avoid hand fatigue and maintain stitch quality.

Step 8: Finish and Secure

When you reach your starting point:

Take a small securing stitch.
Run the needle between layers for about an inch and trim the thread close to the fabric.

This hides the thread tail and creates a clean finish.

Step 9: Show, Share, and Reflect

Invite students to share their finished mug rugs.

Discussion prompts:

What stitch or step was your favorite?
What was challenging?
Where else could you use this technique?

Celebrate each piece—every project tells a story.

Teaching Tips & Techniques That Set Students Up for Success

Start with Connection

Introduce yourself. Let students know who you are—not just as a teacher, but as a stitcher. A personal story builds trust.
Learn where your students are from. Geography, background, and experience all shape how people learn.
Set and state your goal clearly. Whether it’s mastering a stitch or completing the project, clarity matters.
Ask students about their goals. When learners name their own objectives, they’re more invested.

Create a Positive Learning Environment

Set students up for success—and be positive. Confidence grows in encouraging spaces.
“We are successful because we are flexible.” Adjust pacing, methods, and expectations as needed.
Simplify wherever possible. Break techniques into manageable steps.
Set high standards for yourself. Preparation and enthusiasm are contagious.
Manage time wisely and plan ahead. A smooth class keeps frustration at bay.
Provide extra tools—scissors, pencils, needles, fabrics, notions—and label them clearly.

Teach to All Learning Styles

Identify learning styles: visual, auditory, kinesthetic—or a combination.
Make accommodations: Needle Grip-Its, good lighting, comfortable seating, and adequate workspace go a long way.
“An error is not a terror.” Mistakes are learning opportunities.
“It is okay to break rules.” Creativity often lives just beyond them.
Expect the unexpected. Threads tangle, needles bend, plans change—and that’s okay.

Show, Tell, and Practice

Use visuals and drawings. Sometimes a sketch explains more than words.
Demonstrate for large groups and again for smaller groups when needed.
Provide time for guided practice. Stitch alongside students.
Allow independent practice while monitoring and encouraging.
Vary group sizes and group members. Learning from peers is powerful.
Use pull-out groups for extra help or advanced exploration.
Show and share as you go. Celebrate progress, not just finished pieces.

Use Clues and Encouragement

Word clues:
“Just like me, the older I get, the finer I am. The same is true for thread and hand sewing needles. Sewing machine needles are the opposite.”
Visual clues:
Place a sticker in the top right-hand corner of a square-up ruler to indicate step one.
Reduce frustration: Encourage breaks, mark with tape, and avoid Sharpie markers on fabric.

Engage Creativity and Reflection

Engage students with questions:

How could you change the design?
Which color do you prefer?
How did you get that corner so sharp?
What would you do differently next time?

Transfer learning: Where else could you use this technique?
Check back: What did you learn today?
Reflect together: What would you keep, eliminate, or change?
Appoint “maestras.” Peer leaders build confidence and community.
Keep it FUN! Joy is the best teacher of all.

Sewing Beyond the Project

The Hearts to You Mug Rug may be a small piece, but it carries big lessons—about patience, flexibility, creativity, and community. When students leave class feeling successful and eager to stitch again, we’ve done our job.

After all, sewing isn’t just about thread and fabric. It’s about stories passed down, skills shared, and hearts stitched into every piece.

Happy Stitching!

Judy Moore Pullen

Our Favorite Tools: A Peek Into Our Creative Chaos

Posted on February 17, 2025 by Colonial Needle

And Why We Can’t Live Without Them!

Like most makers, we keep an assortment of tools at hand in the areas of our home where we do most of our work. For us, this is pretty much everywhere. Not even kidding a little bit. If there is a place to sit or perch with good lighting or a good lamp, we’re probably working on a project. Sewing, embroidery, quilting, sashiko, crochet, knitting, and other tools live happily around our spaces: next to the couch, near the sewing machine, above the cutting table, around the photo studio, and even in coat and pant pockets. You never know when you are going to need that one tool that you just can’t do without! Remember that time the good thread snips were in Shannon’s purse in her makeup bag? Just us??

As we do from time to time, we recently went on a reorganize and prioritize bender that lead us to make an assortment of small fabric boxes to keep all of our making things a bit more tidy and assure that we can always find that tool we need. We thought it would be fun to show you what it is that we keep on hand. For this particular video (found here), Jason has taken the opportunity to invade Shannon’s peaceful morning of “snow day” stitching with his camera.

Here’s what he found in Shannon’s stash:

Needles of various lengths and diameters. (DUH!) Like we said before, we do a lot of hand stitching, so we need needles that will do the required job. Smaller hand sewing needles like the John James Signature Collection Sharps or Betweens in a couple of sizes for fine sewing. John James long darners are always easily within reach for quilting, mending, and sashiko. They’re easy to find and stay safe and secure in the vials they come in. Also, the John James Craft Needle Collection will usually have one or two needles that will do the job we need done.
Snips and scissors for cutting thread and yarn… these are a must for any sewist. We don’t use pins too often, but clips are handy to have in case you need an extra finger or two to hold something.
Thimbles… yeah, lots of thimbles. We know, we can hear you saying, “why would you need more than one thimble?” Here’s why: Each thimble does a specific job that it is best suited for. Sashiko requires a palm thimble for speed and needle movement. For our hand quilting—big stitch or small stitch—we use the Colonial Needle Thimble Crown and Thimble Dimple. The Thimble Crown sits tightly on our main sewing hand, pushing the needle through the fabric while the Thimble Dimple attaches to the hand we use under the fabric to push the needle back to the surface. So instead of pricking our fingertips constantly or awkwardly using a spoon, we keep our dexterity. These two adhesive thimbles can be found in one pack along with the Thimble Pad and Needle Grip-Its: Item SM420.
Because we are always looking for one — and can never seem to find it when we need it— we keep an Easy-store Tape Measure in the box as well… now we just need to remember to put it back once we are done using it!
The last thing we keep close is a Roxanne Glue Stick. This is especially handy for boro textiles and patchwork mending but Shannon also has one in the mending kit in her purse for emergency repairs.

These are the main characters in action with us. Take a look to your left and right. What tools do you keep handy? Let us know!

Stitch On,

Shannon & Jason

DIY Fabric Cards

Posted on December 19, 2024 by Colonial Needle

Fabric cards are the perfect way to add a little OMPH to your gift giving and they show that you really do care enough to send something handmade…even if you don’t have a lot of spare time or the extra brain capacity for a larger project. Easy to customize to any size for any occasion (maybe a certain winter holiday that is coming up?), fabric cards show you went that extra mile and put thought and effort into the gift-giving experience. They make that special person receiving the card feel seen and appreciated. Fabric cards have a distinctive handmade quality that is hard to replicate with mass-produced, store-bought cards and it is this uniqueness that adds charm and character to your gift.

They are super easy to make! Fabric scraps are pretty inexpensive and if you are already a sewist or know someone who is, you might already have the materials you need to create your own mini textile masterpiece. Add some quilting or embroidery and your creation really goes to the next level. You can hand stitch, applique, or machine embroider each one for a one-of-a-kind product. We used Finca Metallic Thread to hand embroider our fabric cards. Send yours as postcards, framed miniature textile art, gift tags, or leave one side open to insert a gift card. However you use them, if you are like us, you will end up making several *ahem* extra which is a good thing because you never know when you will need a little piece of handmade excellence to add to your gifting.

Here is how we make ours.

Supplies:

Fusible interfacing or stabilizer
Fabric scraps (1–2”wide and long enough to cover your card)
Finca Metallic Thread – 1 Ply for machine embroidery, 2 Ply for hand stitching.
Crewel Needle–Large eye and sharp tip make easy work of the layers
Sewing machine with all-purpose thread and jeans needle or embroidery needle
Roxanne Glue–Glue Stick or Dip & Dab XL Tube
Cover Stock Paper or similar for backing (we like Kraft-Tex for sturdy projects)
Note: You can use cotton fabric for the backing too. The end result is not as“cardlike”.
Scissors or rotary cutter

Cuts:

Cut stabilizer/interfacing to your desired size – Standard post card size is 4”x6” but you can make your cards any size you like
Cut paper backing to the same size as stabilizer

Instructions:

Place strips of fabric on the stabilizer deciding on placement, color, texture, ect.
Remove your chosen strips and place the center strip face up on the stabilizer. We like using diagonal lines, so our first strip covers from the top left corner to the bottom right. You do you though…
Place an adjacent strip on top of the first one with Right sides facing. Sew the seam using a 1/4’’ to 3/8’’ seam allowance. Make sure the fabric covers past the edge.
Press the seam open being careful to watch if your stabilizer has a fusible backing (you can also finger press the seam open as well).
Continue in this manner sewing strips on one at a time moving in one direction.
Once you have covered the first half, turn your card and repeat the process goingf rom the center to the opposite corner.
Once the stabilizer is completely covered turn Right side down and trim off the excessfabric.
Secure the last 2 corners using a glue stick or Roxanne Dip & Dab XL Tube
Add embroidery to your card by hand or machine.
a. If embroidering by hand use Finca 2-Ply Metallic Thread held double.
b. If machine embroidering use Finca 1-Ply Metallic Thread as your top thread and all-purpose thread in the bobbin.
Once embroidery is complete apply the paper back to the card.
a. If your stabilizer has a fusible back you can use an iron to secure otherwise glue the card to the back
b. If you are using the fabric card as a gift card holder skip this step.
Machine or hand sew a zig-zag or edging stitch around the card to secure the edge.
a. We specifically like using fabric cards as holders for gift cards…just leave one side open so you can slide the card inside the pocket
b. If you want to use a satin stitch along the edge, use a fabric backing instead of paper. The punching of the needle that many times will perforate the backing causing it to tear off easily.

Optional: Use a hole punch in one corner of the finished card and thread it with sparkly thread oryarn as a beautiful gift tag.

Gift cards like this can be mailed using standard postage…you’ll need to weigh the item to ensure you have enough postage attached to it. They do tend to get dirty in the mail so we opt for mailing them in an envelope.

For a video tutorial visit our YouTube page here.

We hope you decide to make a few fabric cards this season for your loved ones…let us know how you like them!

Shannon & Jason

When Disaster Strikes: Repairing A Thread Break

Posted on June 17, 2024 by Colonial Needle

We’ve all been through it: You have a favorite quilt, it’s been with you through thick and thin, more like a cozy confidante than a mere blanket. But suddenly, disaster strikes! A quilting line breaks, literally threatening the very fabric of your cozy companion. Now, you could take it to a professional, but is that really necessary? It’s like sending your best friend to therapy when all they need is a one-on-one chat over coffee. Hand sewing quilt repairs is like giving your quilt a little spa day—it’s personal, it’s intimate, and let’s face it, you get to bond with your quilt on a whole new level, whispering sweet nothings to it as you stitch, ensuring that it’ll keep you warm and cozy for many more slumber sessions and rainy afternoons to come. So, grab a needle and thread, and let the healing stitches begin!

Quilting lines break… regardless of what thread you use or the tension you stitch with, sometimes it just happens. And when it does happen, it’s a simple process to repair that line and keep the damage to a minimum. We re-check our quilts for thread breaks before cleaning or before putting them up for the season and make quick mends before they become bigger problems.

For this video, we were repairing a random quilting thread break from one of the quilts from our new book Scrappy Wonky Quilt Block Extravaganza before it shipped out for a trunk show.

How To Repair A Thread Break

Our Video Tutorial can be found here.

Tools Needed:

Thread pick or tweezers (for taking control of those unruly threads)
Sewing machine (for the fast and furious fix)
Matching colored thread (of course we’ll keep it stylish)
Needle threader (for those tiny eye-of-the-needle challenges)
Good hand sewing needles (because not all needles are created equal, dah-lings!)
– We use the John James Signature Collection Between, size 11. If you like Sharps better they will work great here too.

For quilts where one line of stitching has broken (i.e. the bobbin thread broke on the back as shown in our video) the steps are simple and straightforward as long as you take it one step at a time. First things first, let’s tie off the existing ends of the thread.

Now, onto the grand performance of quilt surgery!

1.Untangle Any Mess: On the backside of your quilt, delicately unpick the rebellious thread in both directions. We need enough thread to secure the line, tie a knot, and tuck it away discreetly—about 4–5 inches should do the trick.

2. Making the Cut: Cut the remaining thread on the top side of your fabric, again you need at least 4–5 inches, more if you can manage it… pull this through to the back. Thread both the top and bottom threads through your needle (needle threader to the rescue here) and finish the stitch on the backside, stitching through the back fabric alone.

3. The Disappearing Trick: Tie a knot roughly 1/4” from that last stitch. Then, like a skilled magician, make that knot disappear by inserting your needle into the fabric coming out an inch or two away from the insertion point and gently tug the end until the until the knot vanishes into the fabric. Snip off any excess thread and repeat the process for the other side. TA-DAA!

4. Time for Round Two: Now, let’s sew that quilting line back! Using a thread that matches the existing one, re-sew the quilt line, making sure to start and stop about 1 stitch length away from the original start/stop points. Leave plenty of thread for finishing touches and tying off—doing this last stitch by hand means your quilt fix will be invisible… even to your MIL or that one member of your guild who loves to point out everyone’s mistakes.

Bonus Tip: We always keep track of the fabric type and brand, the batting type and brand, and the thread brand, type, and color number. This allows us to make fixes later if necessary. It is not a bad idea to add a label to your quilts with this information on it… because who can remember where they put that notebook anyway? Which Dropbox folder was it in?

Label your quilts folx!

5. The Finishing Flourish: Finish the last stitch on the top by hand, then pull through to the back ensuring it cozies up next to the bobbin thread. Thread both top and bobbin threads through the needle, then tie them off with a knot or make a series of small backstitches next to the existing quilt line (it’s in the video), whichever tickles your quilting fancy.

6. The Grand Finale: Bury those thread tails like buried treasure, with or without a knot, and repeat the process for the other side. And just like that, your quilt is ready to snuggle into its rightful place—be it on your bed, on your favorite reading chair, or safely tucked away until its next grand adventure!

While you have that John James Signature Collection needle out, now would be a good time to add that quilt label we mentioned… just saying…

And there you have it, folx! Quilt repair made easy-peasy. Give this a shot with your next thread break and you’ll feel like a thread whisperer extraordinaire!

STITCH ON!!
Shannon & Jason

You can visit our YouTube channel here. Don’t forget to subscribe so you’re up-to-date on all our latest reviews and tutorials!

Awesome Applique

Posted on June 13, 2023 by Colonial Needle

By Judy Moore Pullen

What is applique?

Let’s start by answering this simple question:

To applique is to apply a piece of fabric on top of another piece of fabric background or on top of a pieced background. This can be done by hand and/or machine, using a variety of methods and techniques. An applique (n.) is the fabric stitched on top of a background, either by hand stitching or using a sewing machine.

What I love about applique:

I love applique for so many reasons! My passion for it is in both the process and the product. I find it awesome, while some find it awful to do. At one time, I belonged to a group of like-minded hand applique stitchers. We could multi-task: sit and stitch and enjoy each other’s company at the same time. I hope to sway some readers to try applique, so this subject probably will probably require more blog posts.

The Economics of applique:

There is actually a little economics history related to applique. Years ago, those who made quilts for function only were probably the first scrap quilt makers. If you had to raise the cotton or sheep, harvest the product, spin the fiber, weave the cloth, make the garment, all while struggling to put food on the table and survive, the most efficient and economical way to make quilts for your family was to join scraps of fabric side by side of whatever was left over from worn out clothing. Over time, when funds were more available, and a quiltmaker desired to make a quilt pretty, she could arrange bits and pieces of fabric together to perhaps design flowers for embellishment and applique them on top of the scrappy pieces. Quiltmakers with even more money and time on their hands added hand applique to their quilt tops. Think crazy quilts, broderie perse.

My journey with applique:

As I enjoy the process – the doing of something (except for dusting and vacuuming), hand applique is a joy for me to do! There are so many ways to hand applique, and my favorite way is needle turn. I remember the moment I saw someone demonstrating it at a local quilt show years ago. She looked so relaxed, so confident, and her work was beautiful. I picked her brain and observed for a while, then decided to try my hand at needle turn applique at home.

In the beginning, I was somewhat self-taught, ironing a freezer paper template on the right side of my applique fabric, tracing around the cut edge with a pencil, then cutting the fabric with a scant 1/4” seam allowance. I left the freezer paper in place as I hand stitched, using thread color that matched the background and tried to conceal my stitches. I quickly learned that matching the color of the thread to the color of the applique fabric was much better. While working and playing in a quilt shop at the time, I offered to teach a hand applique class. When a student asked what kind of needle I used, I promptly replied: “Whatever I can see to thread.” Let’s fast forward from that time, since I have learned so much more about tools and techniques, often times by trial and several errors.

There are a few things that make my needle turn applique look so much better, and much more relaxing and enjoyable to do:

Thread size
Thread kind
Thread Color
Choice of Needle
Needle Grip-Its from Colonial Needle Co.
Roxanne thimbles
The invisible stitch
A lighted magnifier
A pillow on my lap
Cookies and coffee…

Let’s break those down:

1. Thread

Presencia 60 weight thread is my thread of choice for needle turn applique. It is made from the finest quality long staple Egyptian cotton, is 3-ply for strength, and virtually lint free. The bigger the number, the finer the thread, which helps make my stitches virtually invisible. I want my hand stitching to last, so 3-ply (three strands of fiber wrapped together) makes this very fine thread so strong. Whenever possible, I unwind a strand of thread and lay it across my applique fabric to check for the best color. Sometimes I audition several colors. My first glance is my best clue to the color that will become one with my applique.

2. Choosing your needle

John James’ Signature Collection Needles are my needles of choice. They are made of the very finest precision engineered steel, making them so strong. With their proprietary finish, these needles glide easily through fabric rather than prodding it out of place. They are available in 4 different kinds: Embroidery – sizes 7, 8, 9; Milliners – sizes 9, 10, 11; Quilting – sizes 7, 8, 9, 10, 11; and Sharps – sizes 7, 8, 9, 10. As with thread sizes, the bigger the number, the finer the hand sewing needle. Machine sewing needles are the opposite.

My needle of choice with my knobby fingers, is a Milliners size 10. It is longer and allows me to sweep the seam allowance under as I go, concealing the drawn line of my applique. I now remove the freezer paper prior to stitching.

*TIP: in tight places like an acute “innie” point, I have a Quilting needle size 7 already threaded. I park my Milliners needle in the background, and make tiny stab stitches with my threaded Quilting needle to invisibly secure those tricky little “innie” points.

You may prefer to begin with a different John James Signature Collection needle or one of the many others offered by Colonial Needle Company. Just as some shoes are comfier than others, see what is the best fit for you and your hands.

3. Needle Grip-Its

Prior to stitching, I secure two little adhesive clear circles of Needle Grip-Its to my needle-holding hand on my forefinger and thumb where I will be gripping the needle. Faithfully using these little magic circles, I have no pain in my hands, and can stitch to my heart’s delight! These tiny adhesive circles stay securely in place during the repetitive motion of gripping and pulling a needle.

4. Roxanne Thimbles

I was happily gifted with a Roxanne Thimble several years ago, and it is the gift that keeps on giving, helping me to painlessly push the needle through fabric, regardless of what kind of hand stitching I am doing. The sideways motion of using Roxanne’s Thimble is better for one’s hands. Getting a correct fit is also important, and quilt shops who carry them are so helpful. Colonial Needle also has a handy info sheet on their website which can be found here.

*TIP: add a Roxanne's Thimble to your gift list, as well as matching Roxanne's Thimble earrings! They are so cute and readily identify you as a hand stitcher.

5. Lighted Magnifier

The lighted magnifier allows me to place light right over my work and more easily see where I am stitching, especially the tip of my needle as I insert it into the background fabric then upward through the underside of the fold.

6. Lap Pillow

The pillow on my lap helps bring my work to a more comfortable position so I can rest my arms and be at ease.

7. And last but not least…

The cookies and coffee, inspire me to take breaks to get up and stretch, walk into the kitchen, and let my little dogs out for a break for them, too.

In Conclusion:

Each of these tools will help your hand applique stitch become nearly invisible, strong, and secure. I think of the fold of the seam allowance of an applique as a cliff, and I am standing on the edge of the cliff. I bring my needle up from the inside of the applique to the back side of the fold, then “jump off the cliff” straight down with my needle into the background. Then travel with the point of my needle under the background a very few threads and come up with the needle just under the fold, the edge of the cliff. If you jump off the cliff/fold to the left or the right with your needle, your thread will show.

*TIP: Instead of scrunching the excess background fabric in my left hand while stitching with my right hand, I roll the excess fabric so that it fits neatly into the palm of my left hand. This keeps my fabric smoother, reduces stress on my hand, and helps prevent me from stitching my background to the wrong places as in my pillow or my clothing. I have learned a lot from my many mistakes.

Oh, the joy of needle turn applique! I feel like an artist, a sculptor, and I can “make the applique my own” by changing a shape as I go. Hand applique helps slow me down, listen to music or a recorded book, watch TV, talk with friends, or just sit quietly, breathe, and put a little love into every stitch. I can take a project with me on a walk along the river, sit down on a bench and stitch whenever and wherever I choose. I enjoy sitting outside in the cool mornings with my little girls, being serenaded by the birds’ songs and stitching by hand.

There are several ways to applique, and I look forward to sharing them with you as well. There is beauty in hand work, a human quality that is beneficial for the hand stitcher as well as for the person who admires or receives the work of one’s hands and heart. Be kind to yourself and savor every stitch. Just as my dad had a box full of hand tools that helped him with his work and play, there are tools that are helpful to those who enjoy hand applique and think of it as Awesome. There is joy and grace in simple things.

Happy stitching,

Judy