Split Stitch: A Beginner’s Guide to Texture, Lines & Detail

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Sometimes the simplest stitches are the ones that give you the most creative freedom. The split stitch creates a beautifully textured line that’s equally at home outlining a delicate flower, following the curves of embroidered lettering, or adding detail to a larger design.

What makes this stitch different? Instead of placing each new stitch beside the last, your needle actually passes through the previous stitch, splitting the thread. The result is a continuous, slightly textured line that almost resembles a tiny braid.

With September’s focus on texture and layers, it’s a perfect stitch to add to your repertoire.

What Is a Split Stitch?

The split stitch is an embroidery stitch made by bringing the needle up through the center of the previous stitch, separating—or “splitting”—the thread as you go.

That simple technique creates a strong, continuous line with more texture than a backstitch but a slightly different appearance from stem stitch.

Because the stitches connect so closely, split stitch follows curves particularly well and can create remarkably smooth outlines.

When to Use Split Stitch

Split stitch is a wonderfully versatile embroidery technique.

Try it for:

  • Outlining embroidery motifs
  • Curved lines and intricate shapes
  • Lettering and monograms
  • Flower stems and botanical designs
  • Filling small areas
  • Creating a foundation underneath satin stitch
  • Adding texture to layered embroidery

It can be subtle when worked with fine floss or much more prominent when stitched with heavier thread.

What You’ll Need

Tip: Split stitch is easiest when you’re working with a divisible thread. Using an even number of strands makes it easier to bring your needle up cleanly through the center of the previous stitch.

How to Sew Split Stitch

Step 1: Bring Your Needle Up

Bring the needle from the back of the fabric to the front at the beginning of your design line.

Step 2: Make Your First Stitch

Take a small straight stitch forward along your marked line.

Step 3: Split the Stitch

Bring your needle back up through the center of the stitch you just made, splitting the strands of thread as evenly as possible.

Step 4: Stitch Forward Again

Insert the needle a short distance ahead along your design line and pull the thread through.

Step 5: Repeat

Bring the needle up through the center of that newest stitch and continue working forward.

As you repeat the process, you’ll see the characteristic continuous, textured line begin to form.

Tips for a Smooth Split Stitch

  • Keep your stitches relatively short when following curves.
  • Aim for the center of each previous stitch.
  • Maintain gentle, consistent thread tension.
  • Try an even number of floss strands so you can divide them evenly.
  • For a smoother line, keep your stitch length consistent.
  • For a more organic effect, experiment with slightly varied stitch lengths.

Split Stitch vs. Stem Stitch

These two stitches can look similar, but they’re constructed differently.

With stem stitch, each new stitch overlaps the previous stitch while the working thread remains consistently on one side.

With split stitch, the needle comes directly through the previous stitch and separates the thread.

Stem stitch creates a more distinctly twisted line, while split stitch produces a slightly flatter, braided texture. Both are excellent choices for outlines and curves—the look you want can help determine which one you choose.

Try Adding a Second Layer

September is all about texture and layers, so don’t stop after one line.

Try working a second row of split stitch beside the first, layering another stitch over it, or changing thread colors and weights. Split stitch can also serve as padding underneath satin stitch, giving the finished embroidery additional dimension.

Sometimes exploring a familiar technique in a new way is all it takes to change the look of a project.

Projects to Try

Put your split stitch skills to work on:

  • Embroidered lettering
  • Botanical motifs
  • Floral outlines
  • Monograms
  • Decorative borders
  • Small filled motifs
  • Layered embroidery samplers

Whether you use it as a subtle outline or build it into a textured design, split stitch is a simple technique with plenty of room for experimentation.

Fifty-Cent Glue vs. the Good Stuff: When Cheap Is Fine and When Your Fabric Deserves Better

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A Colonial Needle Company feature with Shannon & Jason

Let’s get the obvious elephant out of the studio first. A purple school glue stick costs about fifty cents, fits in a pencil pouch, and lives at every drugstore, big box store, and back-to-school endcap on the planet. So when someone at a show tells us they would just grab the cheap stick instead of a Roxanne, we get it. We really do. We use school glue sticks too.

Here’s the part nobody says out loud, though: we use different glues for different work. Not because one is good and the rest are garbage, but because a studio full of textile projects is a lot like a studio full of any other kind of art. You reach for what the job actually needs. Sometimes that’s the fifty-cent tube. Sometimes it very much is not.

Think Like an Artist Buying Supplies

Walk into any art store and nobody blinks when a painter keeps student-grade paper for warming up and saves the good cotton rag for the piece that’s headed to a frame. Pencils, pens, sketchbooks, paints, fabric… they all come in student, artist, and professional grades, and every maker learns to match the material to the moment. Practice needs low-stakes supplies so we don’t freeze up worrying about wasting the fancy stuff. That fear of ruining something precious? It’s a creativity killer, and we refuse to let it win. But the work meant to last for generations needs materials that will actually last for generations.

For some reason, the fiber and textile arts haven’t always insisted on that same distinction. We’ll happily spend real money on gorgeous hand-dyed cotton, precision cutters, and a needle for every occasion… and then reach for an adhesive formulated for third-grade construction paper. So let us walk you through how we actually sort it out on our own worktable.

Three Glues, Three Jobs

School glue sticks

These are our accessibility-and-play tier. They’re what we hand out in beginner-friendly workshops where cost matters and everyone’s just there to learn a technique, and they’re what we grab in the studio when we’re testing a layout or goofing around with an idea. Cheap, washable, everywhere. Perfect for low-stakes, temporary, get-out-of-your-own-head basting.

Permanent glue sticks

These (the UHU-style ones) are our middle tier. When we’re teaching art-forward classes, building mixed media pieces, or doing certain visible mending where we want a bond that stays put, this is the reach. More commitment than school glue, different job than Roxanne.

Roxanne Baste-It

This is what we reach for on almost every textile piece that matters here in the studio. Gallery work. Commissions. Heirloom-bound quilts. The pieces we want someone to still be holding in fifty years. It’s the one glue we trust not to gum up our hand stitching or our machine work, it dries flexible instead of crunchy, and it washes out completely and cleanly.

None of that is a knock on the cheaper tubes. It’s just knowing which tool got invited to which party.

What Roxanne Actually Does on Cloth

Sticking two things together is easy. Getting fabric to stay put without wrecking its drape, its hand, or its color is the hard part, and that’s where a glue built for textiles instead of paper starts earning its keep.

  • Smooth, light application. It doesn’t drag on delicate weaves or leave thick, gummy clumps. For our English paper piecing, we can lay down the finest skiff of it on the template and the fabric, just enough to hold, with none of that sticky mess. On the fine garment fabrics in our upcoming visible mending workshops, that light hand is exactly why it beats a school glue stick, which drags and gums up the very fabrics we’re trying to save (more on the gumming in a minute).
  • Fast-drying and water-soluble. It sets quickly so you can keep moving, then washes out completely once the stitching is doing the structural work.
  • Made for the actual jobs. Appliqué, bindings, hems, EPP… it holds edges crisp under the genuine physical stress of textile work without turning your piece stiff as a board.

School glue can hold two pieces of cloth together, sure. But Roxanne is the one that was clearly invited to the fabric party.

The Studio View: Saving Your Needles, Your Thread, and Your Sanity

This is the one we feel in our hands, so bear with us while we get specific, because it’s the difference nobody warns you about until you’re living it. When we’re doing the stitching-heavy work we love most, sashiko, visible mending, EPP, appliqué, the wrong glue turns into a genuine problem. The heavier, gummier sticks do hold the fabric in place, we’ll give them that. But they dry stiff; stitching through stiff, gummy fabric is a fight. Worse, the glue transfers onto the needle. By hand, that means a rubbery drag that makes your thimble slide and your hand ache, and it means we’re stopping to wipe our needles down with alcohol to keep them moving smoothly. That’s not a workflow. That’s a chore we invented for ourselves by grabbing the wrong tube.

On the machine it gets worse, and here’s the chain of events we’ve watched happen more than once. The glue gets onto the needle and, with the friction and heat of stitching, melts onto it a bit. Now the needle is tacky, so it grabs at the fabric and pulls it instead of piercing cleanly, and that drag throws off your stitches, sometimes skipping them outright. Then comes the part that really stings: the same gummed-up needle tugging on the thread until the thread itself breaks. We’ve traced more than one snapped length of good thread back to exactly that. None of this is a lab-certified white paper, and we won’t dress it up as one. It’s our studio experience, learned the annoying way. But it’s consistent enough that we trust it.

Roxanne dries down light and flexible, so whether the needle’s driven by your hand or your motor, it slips through the basted zone instead of collecting adhesive and dragging it into the works. No alcohol wipes, no melting, no mystery thread breaks. Just smooth, rhythmic stitching, which is the whole reason we sat down to sew in the first place.

The Preservation Angle: Why Old Quilts Go Brown

Here’s the one that keeps us honest, because we’ve handled a lot of vintage textiles and old quilts, and we’ve seen the damage up close. You know those brown and yellow stains that bloom on antique pieces over the years? Most of us recognize them on sight. Fewer of us stop to ask what actually causes them.

A big part of the answer is the adhesives. Many old glues were acidic to begin with, or turned acidic as they aged and broke down, and that acid migrates straight into the fibers. Acid is what makes natural fabric yellow, weaken, and eventually fall apart, the same reason conservators fuss over acid-free mat board and archival tissue. Some adhesives off-gas as they degrade too, which doesn’t help. The through-line is simple: put an acidic, breaking-down glue against cloth and give it enough time, and the cloth pays for it.

Which is exactly why acid-free and pH-neutral aren’t just label decoration. An acid-free adhesive isn’t leaving a slow decay bomb tucked inside your quilt sandwich or your garment seams. Roxanne is acid-free and pH-neutral, and that’s the language we’re comfortable standing behind. You’ll hear folx toss around archival too, but in textile conservation that word carries the weight of decades of standardized testing, so we’d rather keep our claims clean and true: acid-free, pH-neutral, and a safe, stable choice when you want today’s work to still be here for the folx who come after you.

Use the Right Tool for the Job

Cheap glue sticks have their place, and we mean that. Mockups, rough drafts, kid projects, quick low-stakes fixes, and every I’m-just-playing moment where the whole point is not to feel precious about it. Keep that fifty-cent tube. Use it with joy.

But when you move past practice and into the work that matters, your tools should match your effort. Not every project deserves the fancy glue. But when the fabric matters, the fancy glue isn’t actually fancy. It’s just the better tool. Roxanne is the one we reach for when we want fabric to behave: smooth application, a lighter hand, easier stitching, and zero drama at the needle. That’s the whole philosophy, really. There’s a right tool and a right material for every project, and the trick is just knowing which is which.

Stitch on,

Shannon & Jason

🧵 Shop Roxanne Baste-It Glue and the full Roxanne glue lineup here.

📌 Explore Colonial Needle’s needles, thimbles, and notions for your next textile project here.

▶️ Catch more Colonial Needle tips and tutorials on YouTube here.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Classroom & Workshop Projects

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Needle Know-How from Colonial Needle

There’s something special about teaching someone to stitch.

Whether you’re leading a workshop, teaching a guild program, introducing a child or grandchild to hand sewing, or simply showing a friend how to thread a needle, you’re doing more than completing a project together. You’re helping someone build skills they may carry with them for years.

And when someone is learning, the tools we give them matter.

A needle that’s difficult to thread, a project that takes too long to finish, or supplies that aren’t well matched can turn an exciting first experience into a frustrating one. The right combination of project, needle, thread, and instruction helps new stitchers focus on learning—not fighting with their materials.

The Stitching Scenario

Classes, workshops & learn-to-stitch projects

This might include:

  • Beginning hand-sewing classes
  • Embroidery workshops
  • Quilting or appliqué classes
  • Visible-mending sessions
  • Guild programs
  • Kids’ or teen sewing activities
  • Make-and-take projects
  • Informal lessons with friends or family

These settings present a different challenge from stitching at home: the same supplies may need to work comfortably for people with very different levels of experience.

For teachers, that means thinking beyond simply asking, “Which needle is technically correct?”

A better question may be:

Which needle will help my students succeed?

The Common Challenges

Beginning stitchers often struggle with things experienced makers barely think about anymore:

  • Threading the needle
  • Holding and controlling a very fine needle
  • Pulling thick thread through a small eye
  • Knowing where to insert the needle
  • Keeping thread from tangling
  • Managing tension
  • Understanding unfamiliar terminology
  • Staying motivated through a project that takes too long

When you’re planning a class, removing even one or two of those obstacles can make learning considerably more enjoyable.

Why the Right Tool Matters

Eye Size

For a beginner, an eye that’s slightly easier to see and thread can be far more valuable than choosing the finest possible needle for the finished stitch.

The thread should pass comfortably through the eye without being forced.

Needle Length

Very short needles can offer wonderful control to an experienced stitcher but may feel awkward in unfamiliar hands.

A moderately sized needle is often easier for beginners to grip, maneuver, and see.

Point Style

The project determines whether you need a sharp or blunt point.

A sharp needle is appropriate when the stitch needs to pierce the fabric. A blunt tapestry needle can be useful for counted techniques or projects where the needle should pass between fabric threads instead.

This is a great opportunity to teach students why the needles are different rather than simply handing them one.

Needle Size

One of the most useful lessons we can give a new stitcher is that needle size isn’t arbitrary.

Show students how the needle relates to:

  • Fabric weight and weave
  • Thread thickness
  • Stitch type
  • The desired finished effect

Understanding that relationship builds a skill they can use long after the class ends.

Our Recommendation: Build a Small Teaching Kit

Instead of trying to provide every possible needle, create a small assortment suited to the project you’re teaching.

Depending on the class, that might include:

Sharps
A versatile starting point for general hand sewing, mending, and many construction projects.sharps needles

Embroidery/Crewel Needles
Useful when working with embroidery floss or decorative threads because of their elongated eyes and sharp points

.crewel embroidery

Chenille Needles
A good choice when students need both a larger eye and a sharp point, particularly with heavier decorative threads.

chenille needles

Tapestry Needles
Ideal for counted work and techniques where a blunt point should pass between fabric threads rather than pierce them.

tapestry needles

The goal isn’t to teach every needle in one sitting. It’s to help students understand why this needle works for this project.

Pro Tip: Teach the “Why”

If you’re teaching a workshop, take two minutes at the beginning to talk about the needle.

Show students the eye.

Show them the point.

Let them compare it with another needle type.

Explain why you chose it for the fabric and thread they’ll be using.

That tiny lesson turns a supply into knowledge.

And the next time they start a project at home, they’ll be better equipped to choose for themselves.

Start With a Project They Can Finish

Tool choice is only part of a successful learning experience.

The project matters, too.

For beginners and short workshops, look for something that:

  • Teaches one or two core skills
  • Doesn’t require a large supply list
  • Can be completed—or substantially completed—in one session
  • Gives the student something useful or attractive to take home
  • Leaves room for personalization

A small finished project creates a sense of accomplishment that can be incredibly motivating for a new stitcher.

Need a Project? Start With Our Free Pattern Library

If you’re planning a class, workshop, stitch-along, or afternoon of teaching someone new, you don’t necessarily have to develop a project from scratch.

Colonial Needle’s Free Patterns library includes complimentary projects and tutorials for quilting, embroidery, Sashiko, visible mending, and hand stitching, with printable resources, written instructions, and video tutorials available for many projects.

For a beginner class, something as simple as a fabric Corner Bookmark can introduce basic construction without requiring a major time commitment. A Sashiko Denim Bookmark can provide an approachable introduction to hand stitching and using a palm thimble. Or, for a sewing workshop, our DIY Project Pouch creates something students can continue using to organize future projects.

The goal isn’t simply to finish the project.

It’s to give students an approachable place to begin.

Reader Takeaway: A Better Beginner Experience

When you’re teaching someone to stitch:

✔ Choose a needle that’s comfortable to hold and easy to thread
✔ Match the needle to both the thread and the fabric
✔ Explain why you’ve chosen that particular tool
✔ Keep the first project manageable
✔ Limit the number of new skills introduced at once
✔ Give students something they can finish and feel proud of
✔ Send them home with resources that encourage them to keep learning

The best teaching tools don’t just help someone complete their first project.

They help them feel confident enough to start the second one.

Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for needlepoint on canvas—including how canvas mesh, thread weight, and needle size work together.

Until then, share what you know. Sometimes one needle, one project, and one patient teacher are all it takes to create a lifelong stitcher.

Pad Stitch: The Hidden Technique That Gives Handmade Garments Their Shape

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Some of the most important stitches in sewing are the ones you’ll never see.

The pad stitch is one of those hidden heroes. Used primarily in tailoring, this hand-sewing technique adds structure, support, and shape to collars, lapels, facings, and other garment details. While it isn’t decorative like a French knot or practical like a buttonhole stitch, it plays an essential role in creating garments that look polished and professional.

If you’ve ever admired a beautifully tailored blazer or coat, chances are the pad stitch was working behind the scenes.

What Is a Pad Stitch?

A pad stitch is a series of small diagonal stitches used to join two layers of fabric—typically an outer fabric and an interfacing. Rather than simply holding the layers together, the stitches help shape the fabric, allowing collars and lapels to naturally roll and hold their form.

The stitches are worked in offset rows, creating flexibility while securely anchoring the layers.

When & How It’s Used

Pad stitch is most commonly used in garment construction and tailoring. It is ideal for:

  • Jacket and blazer lapels
  • Coat collars
  • Shirt collars
  • Tailored facings
  • Structured hats
  • Couture sewing techniques

While most home sewists won’t use pad stitch every day, it’s an invaluable technique to learn if you’re interested in garment making or improving the quality of handmade clothing.

What You’ll Need

  • Sharp hand-sewing needle (milliners or sharps work well)
  • Fine hand-sewing thread, like Presencia 60 weight
  • Wool, cotton, or hair canvas interfacing
  • Fashion fabric
  • Tailor’s ham (optional)
  • Fabric clips or pins
  • Scissors

Pro Tip: Fine, sharp needles allow you to catch just a few fibers of the outer fabric, keeping the stitches virtually invisible from the front.

How to Sew a Pad Stitch

  1. Step 1: Layer Your Fabrics – Place the interfacing against the wrong side of your fabric and pin or baste in place.
  2. Step 2: Pick Up a Few Fibers – Bring the needle through the interfacing and catch only a tiny amount of the fashion fabric. The stitch should barely show on the right side.
  3. Step 3: Stitch Diagonally – Make a small diagonal stitch through the interfacing and repeat, working in evenly spaced rows.
  4. Step 4: Shape as You Sew – As you work, gently curve the fabric over your hand or a tailor’s ham. The pad stitches will help “train” the fabric to hold that shape.
  5. Step 5: Continue Across the Area – Repeat until the entire collar or lapel is stitched, maintaining even spacing and tension.

Tips for Successful Pad Stitching

  • Catch only a few fibers of the outer fabric.
  • Keep stitches evenly spaced.
  • Maintain gentle, even tension.
  • Work over a curved surface when shaping collars and lapels.
  • Practice on scrap fabric before working on a finished garment.

Common Projects Using Pad Stitch

Pad stitch is commonly found in:

  • Tailored jackets
  • Wool coats
  • Dress collars
  • Suit lapels
  • Couture garments
  • Structured costume pieces

Although hidden inside the garment, pad stitch is one of the techniques that separates handmade clothing from professionally tailored pieces.

Next Month: We’ll revisit the Split Stitch, a classic embroidery stitch perfect for smooth outlines, lettering, and delicate detail work.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Sashiko & Japanese Running Stitch

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A simple running stitch can carry remarkable history.

Sashiko is a Japanese stitching tradition with roots in the practical care, reinforcement, layering, and repair of cloth. Although many stitchers today recognize sashiko by its striking geometric patterns—often worked in white thread against indigo fabric—its story extends beyond decoration. Stitching helped strengthen textiles, extend their usefulness, and add warmth at a time when cloth was valuable and meant to be cared for.

Today, sashiko continues as a living and evolving practice in Japan while also inspiring stitchers around the world. As we explore the tools associated with this work, we do so with respect for the traditions and knowledge from which they come—and with the understanding that one article can offer only an introduction.

For our purposes, we’ll focus on an area we know well: how the length of the needle, the structure of the thread, and the use of a palm thimble can support the distinctive rhythm of running stitch.

The Stitching Scenario

Sashiko and Japanese running-stitch projects

Depending on the style, purpose, and pattern, contemporary projects may include:

  • Geometric stitched samplers
  • Reinforced or repaired garments
  • Decorative panels
  • Quilted or layered textiles
  • Bags and home décor
  • Small projects such as bookmarks and coasters

Although running stitch is fundamental to many sashiko practices, sashiko is more than a decorative running-stitch pattern. Different traditions and regional styles have developed their own methods, patterns, and characteristics.

The tools used can also differ from those chosen for a typical Western-style running stitch.

The Common Challenges

Stitchers who are new to sashiko-inspired stitching may experience:

  • Difficulty keeping stitches consistent
  • Puckering or pulling in the fabric
  • Trouble loading several stitches onto the needle
  • Hand fatigue from pushing the needle with a fingertip
  • Uneven tension between stitched and unstitched areas
  • Difficulty developing a smooth stitching rhythm

These challenges do not necessarily mean you need to make every stitch perfectly identical. In fact, focusing too heavily on visual perfection can distract from learning the motion and rhythm of the technique.

The right tools can help the stitching feel more natural and efficient.

Why the Right Tool Matters

Needle Length

Sashiko needles are generally longer and sturdier than many standard hand-sewing needles.

The additional length allows multiple stitches to be loaded onto the needle before the thread is pulled through. Rather than making each stitch individually, the stitcher can build a sequence of running stitches along the needle.

This supports a steady, continuous rhythm.

Needle Strength

Because several stitches may be gathered onto the needle—and because the needle may be pushed using the palm—it needs enough strength and stability to move through the fabric without excessive bending.

The best needle should feel substantial enough for the fabric while still moving through it smoothly.

Eye Size

Traditional sashiko thread is generally thicker and more softly twisted than standard sewing thread. A sufficiently large, smooth eye helps accommodate the thread without excessive friction or wear.

Your thread should pass through the eye comfortably rather than requiring force.

The Palm Thimble

One of the most distinctive tools associated with sashiko stitching is the palm thimble.

Rather than sitting over the end of a finger, a palm thimble is positioned near the base of the finger so the needle can be guided and pushed with the hand. This supports the motion of loading multiple stitches onto a longer needle before drawing the thread through.

For stitchers accustomed to pushing a needle with the tip of a finger, this movement may feel unfamiliar at first. With practice, however, the needle and thimble can work together to create an efficient stitching rhythm.

Our Recommendation: Tools for Sashiko & Japanese Running Stitch

Long Sashiko Needles

A long sashiko needle is designed to accommodate multiple running stitches at once.

Look for:

  • Enough length to load several stitches
  • A strong, stable shaft
  • A smooth eye large enough for sashiko thread
  • A sharp point that enters the fabric precisely

Longer needles can be especially useful for continuous lines and larger geometric patterns.

Shorter Sashiko Needles

Longer is not always better.

A somewhat shorter sashiko needle may provide greater control when working:

  • Short pattern sections
  • Curves
  • Corners
  • Small motifs
  • Detailed designs

As with many forms of needlework, the best needle depends on the project and the stitcher’s comfort.

Palm Thimble

A palm thimble (like this one) helps support the traditional hand motion associated with loading multiple stitches.

Instead of pushing from the fingertip:

  1. Position the thimble near the base of the finger, according to its design.
  2. Guide the fabric onto the needle.
  3. Use the palm thimble to help push the needle forward.
  4. Load several stitches before drawing the thread through.

This motion takes practice. Begin slowly and focus on becoming comfortable with the relationship between the needle, fabric, and thimble.

Pro Tip: Focus on Rhythm Before Perfection

When learning a new stitching motion, it can be tempting to concentrate entirely on making every stitch exactly the same size.

Instead, begin by finding a comfortable rhythm.

Work slowly. Load only a few stitches at a time. Pay attention to how the fabric moves over the needle and how the palm thimble supports your hand.

Consistency often develops naturally as the movement becomes more familiar.

A Note on Learning with Respect

Sashiko is sometimes reduced to a visual formula: white running stitches, indigo fabric, and geometric patterns. Those elements may be familiar, but they do not tell the whole story.

The tradition developed in connection with the practical care and continued use of textiles. Its forms and practices vary, and knowledge continues to be carried forward by Japanese sashiko practitioners today.

If sashiko is new to you, consider this article an introduction to the tools—not a complete guide to the tradition.

We encourage curious stitchers to seek out Japanese sashiko teachers, artists, historians, and makers; learn about the origins and meanings of the patterns they use; and approach the practice with curiosity and respect.

Reader Takeaway: Quick Tool Guide

For sashiko and Japanese running-stitch projects:

✔ Choose a longer, sturdy needle when loading several stitches (we like this one)

✔ Try a shorter sashiko needle for curves and detailed areas (this is a great assortment)

✔ Match the needle eye to the thickness of your thread

✔ Use a palm thimble to support the stitching motion (found here)

✔ Begin with a few stitches at a time as you develop your rhythm

✔ Learn about the history and traditions alongside the technique

The right tools do more than make stitching easier—they can help us better understand the movements and methods associated with the work.

Sashiko and Japanese Running Stitch Quick Reference CardDownload

Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore tools for classroom and workshop projects—and how thoughtful tool choices can help new stitchers build confidence.

Until then, stitch with curiosity, care, and an appreciation for the traditions that continue to teach and inspire us.

Beat the Summer Heat: Craft a Quick DIY Sashiko Denim Bookmark

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Summer is officially here, which means two things in for us: a growing stack of summer reading books and an absolute refusal to sit under a massive, heavy quilt top while the temperature climbs.

If you’re looking for a bite-sized, satisfying project that keeps your hands busy without overheating, we’ve got the perfect solution. Today, we’re upcycling some old denim scraps into a beautiful, durable sashiko-stitched bookmark. It’s light, portable, and a fantastic way to practice your stitching.

✂️ Free Download Alert! Want to print this out for your studio table? We’ve put together a free, step-by-step project sheet featuring the exact template and pattern grid used in this tutorial. Download your free project sheet below!

CNC Sashiko Bookmark HandoutDownload

The Right Tools for Tough Denim

Stitching through heavy denim can sometimes feel like a workout for your fingers, but using the right notions changes everything. Here’s what’s on my studio tool tray for this project:

  • Roxanne’s Quilter’s Choice White Marking Pencil: Marking dark denim can be a nightmare. This pencil glides on smoothly, stays crisp while you work, and brushes or washes away easily without leaving a ghost line.
  • John James Long Darners: For Sashiko, you want a needle that allows you to load up multiple stitches at once. These long darners are strong enough to handle denim without bending, yet sharp enough to pierce the weave like butter.
  • Presencia 12-wt Thread: This 100% cotton thread provides the perfect weight and sheen for visible mending and Sashiko. It stands out beautifully against the blue denim.
  • Colonial Palm Thimble: If you haven’t tried a palm thimble yet, prepare to have your mind blown. Instead of pushing the needle with the tip of your finger, you use the power of your palm. It’s a total joint-saver when working with thick fabrics.

Step-by-Step to Summer Stitches

Ready to see this project in action? Sometimes it’s easier to catch the exact rhythm of the stitch on camera. Watch the full, step-by-step video over on our YouTube channel to see how it all comes together!

Join the Conversation

Are you tackling any small projects to beat the summer heat? What book is this bookmark going to live in first? Grab your free project sheet above, check out the video tutorial, and let me know your thoughts in the comments below!