Bullion Knot: The Twisted Rose Stitch That Adds Beautiful Texture
If January was about invisible mending, February is about texture, dimension, and a little romance.
The Bullion Knot is a wrapped stitch that creates raised coils of thread — often used to form roses, flower buds, wheat sheaves, and dimensional embellishments. It’s decorative, elegant, and surprisingly versatile once you get the rhythm.
What Is a Bullion Knot?
A bullion knot is made by wrapping thread multiple times around your needle before pulling it through the fabric. The wraps form a smooth, raised coil that sits on top of the fabric.
Think of it as a longer, sleeker cousin of the French knot.
They’re especially popular in spring projects — but work beautifully year-round for adding interest and depth.
What You’ll Need
• Embroidery needle (milliners/straw needles work best) • Embroidery floss or perle cotton • Fabric in a hoop • Small scissors
Pro Tip: Milliners needles are ideal because the shaft and eye are the same width — which makes sliding wraps much easier.
How to Make a Bullion Knot
Bring needle up through fabric.
Insert needle back down a short distance away — but don’t pull it through.
Wrap thread around the needle 6–12 times (depending on desired length).
Hold wraps firmly with your thumb.
Gently pull needle through wraps.
Lay coil smoothly against fabric and pull snug.
If it twists — don’t panic. Slow tension and steady hands are the key.
Why We Love It
Bullion knots instantly elevate simple designs. A cluster of them becomes a rose. A row becomes textured trim. A single one can anchor a delicate motif.
It’s the perfect stitch to practice patience — and it rewards you with dimension you just can’t get from flat stitches.
Embroidery on linen is one of those techniques that rewards patience—smooth stitches, soft texture, and beautiful drape. But linen has a personality of its own. Its natural fibers, subtle slubs, and varying weave density mean that not every needle performs the same way.
If your thread is fraying, your fabric feels resistant, or your stitches look uneven, the solution may not be your technique—it may be your needle.
Let’s explore how to choose the right tool for embroidery on linen.
The Stitching Scenario
Surface embroidery on linen
This includes:
Crewel embroidery
Monogramming
Floral surface designs
Stitch samplers
Slow stitching projects
Linen’s strength and structure make it ideal for embroidery, but its tightly woven fibers require a needle that can glide cleanly without damaging the fabric.
The Common Challenges
When stitching on linen, you may notice:
Thread fraying or fuzzing
Difficulty pulling the needle through
Visible holes around stitches
Distortion or puckering
Hand fatigue during longer sessions
Linen fibers are strong but not forgiving—using the wrong needle can stretch or separate threads in the weave.
Why the Right Tool Matters
When working on linen, pay attention to:
Eye Size Your thread should pass smoothly through the eye without shredding. A polished, properly sized eye protects delicate embroidery floss or specialty threads.
Shaft Thickness A needle that’s too thick creates unnecessary holes. Too thin, and it may bend or feel unstable.
Point Style Linen benefits from a sharp but refined point—one that parts the fibers cleanly rather than forcing its way through.
Length Longer needles create rhythm for flowing stitches, while shorter needles offer control for detailed work.
Small differences create noticeable results.
Our Recommendation: Needles for Embroidery on Linen
Embroidery (Crewel) Needles – Sizes 7–10 A sharp point with a slightly elongated eye makes these ideal for most surface embroidery on linen. They accommodate stranded floss without excessive friction.
Sharps – Sizes 8–10 Excellent for fine monogramming or delicate detail work where smaller stitches are desired.
Chenille Needles – Smaller Sizes (if using thicker threads) If working with wool, ribbon, or heavier fibers, a larger eye with a sharp point allows thicker thread to pass without strain.
Choosing size depends on:
Fabric weight
Thread thickness
Desired stitch scale
When in doubt, test on a scrap. Or use our handy Needle Wheel!
Pro Tip: Protect Your Thread
If your thread is twisting or fraying, try:
Using a slightly larger needle eye
Shortening your thread length
Allowing the needle to hang periodically to untwist
Smooth stitching is often about reducing friction.
Special Considerations for Mindful Stitching
Because February invites slower, intentional making, linen is a beautiful choice. Its texture encourages steady stitching and thoughtful pacing.
Using the right needle:
Reduces resistance
Minimizes strain
Creates cleaner, more defined stitches
The experience becomes calmer—and more enjoyable.
Reader Takeaway: Quick Checklist
When embroidering on linen:
✔ Choose a sharp needle with a polished eye ✔ Match eye size to thread thickness ✔ Avoid oversized needles that enlarge holes ✔ Test before beginning your final piece
A small adjustment can dramatically improve your results.
Looking Ahead
Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for wool appliqué—another technique where precision and fabric awareness matter.
Until then, may your stitches be smooth, steady, and satisfying.
If you’ve ever watched a professional sewist guide a tiny scrap of fabric toward a needle with terrifying precision, you might have wondered: How are their fingertips still intact?
For a long time, my “secret weapon” was actually a set of long acrylic nails. They were great for tucked pleats and guiding seams, but once I moved away from them, I realized I needed a replacement that was just as precise (and a lot more durable… ever snagged a needle on an acrylic nail? Ugh.).
Enter the Sixth Finger Stiletto from Colonial Needle Company. It has officially earned a permanent spot in the tool tray right next to our machines. Here is why this little tool is a total game-changer in our textile studio.
1. Safety Without Sacrificing Precision
The primary job of the Sixth Finger Stiletto is to do exactly what its name suggests: act as an extension of your hand. When you’re feeding fabric into the machine – especially at the very beginning or end of a seam – your fingers can get uncomfortably close to that very sharp, very fast-moving needle. The stiletto gives you ultimate control to nudge, push, and hold fabric flat without putting your actual fingers in harm’s way. Anyone else cringe hard at the memory of a needle-meets-finger moment?
2. The EPP “Glue-Saver” Hack
We discovered a brand-new use for this tool last year that we can’t stop talking about. If you do English Paper Piecing (EPP), you know the struggle of glue-basting:
Glue gets on your fingertips.
Your sticky fingertips then touch the front of your beautiful fabric.
The fabric sticks to you instead of the template.
We started using the flat prong of the Sixth Finger Stiletto to fold the fabric over the edges of the EPP templates. It creates a crisp, tight fold and keeps the glue exactly where it belongs – on the paper, not on your hands! A quick swipe with a damp cloth or a small sponge kept on the side and the prong is clean of glue residue and you are on your way again.
3. It’s Always Within Reach
Some tools end up buried in a drawer, but the Sixth Finger is a “front-row” tool. Whether I’m guiding a bulky seam allowance, holding a ribbon in place, or helping a feed dog grab a slippery silk, it’s sitting right there in the tray. It’s simple, ergonomic, and honestly, I feel a little lost sewing without it now.
Bonus: Pressing Tool
Unlike some rounded pressing assist tools, we absolutely love using the flat prong of the Sixth Finger Stiletto to open and then “finger press” a seam open. Even with shorter nails, I don’t like dragging them across my fabric to set a pre-crease so this tool is perfect for that. Then, we hold the flat edge across the seams securing them while pressing the seam open. It slides easily along the seams holding it in place ahead of the tip of the iron. Safety and precision all in one!
Pro Tip: Because it’s made by Colonial Needle Company, the quality is top-notch. It’s sturdy enough to handle heavy denim but precise enough for delicate appliqué and slippery gauze and silks.
What’s Next?
Tune in! Make sure you check our YouTube video demonstration where we show you the Sixth Finger Stiletto in action at the machine and give you a close-up look at our EPP folding technique and all the ways we use this versatile tool in our studio.
Do you use a stiletto in your sewing room, or are you still risking your fingertips? Let us know in the comments!
Ladder Stitch: A Beginner’s Guide to Invisible Mending
The ladder stitch, sometimes called an invisible stitch, is one of the most useful hand-sewing techniques every stitcher should have in their toolbox. Nearly invisible from the outside, this stitch is perfect for repairs, finishing seams, and closing openings cleanly and professionally.
Whether you’re mending a pillow, repairing a favorite garment, or finishing a handmade project, the ladder stitch delivers a polished result with minimal effort.
What Is a Ladder Stitch?
A ladder stitch is a hand-sewing stitch used to close seams from the outside. The stitches alternate from one folded fabric edge to the other, creating a ladder-like pattern while sewing. When the thread is gently pulled tight, the stitches disappear into the seam.
The result is a clean, nearly invisible closure with no topstitching required.
When to Use the Ladder Stitch
The ladder stitch is ideal for:
Closing pillow covers, cushions, and stuffed items
Repairing torn seams in garments
Finishing plush toys or handmade gifts
Sewing linings closed after turning
Any project where visible stitches aren’t desired
It’s especially useful for repairs and mending, making it a perfect stitch to kick off the year.
What You’ll Need
Sharp hand-sewing needle
All-purpose or fine hand-sewing thread
Fabric with folded seam allowances
Scissors
Pins or clips (optional)
Tip: A sharp needle allows for precise, tiny stitches that stay hidden.
How to Sew a Ladder Stitch: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Prepare the Seam Fold the raw edges of your fabric inward so they meet evenly. Press lightly if needed.
Step 2: Start from the Inside Hide your knot inside the seam allowance. Bring the needle out at the fold on one side.
Step 3: Take the First Stitch Insert the needle directly across into the fold on the opposite side, taking a small horizontal stitch.
Step 4: Alternate Sides Continue stitching back and forth between the two folded edges, keeping stitches parallel and evenly spaced.
Step 5: Close the Seam Gently pull the thread. The stitches will draw the seam together and disappear.
Step 6: Secure the Thread Finish with a small knot hidden inside the seam.
Tips for a Nearly Invisible Finish
Keep stitches small and evenly spaced
Match your thread color closely to the fabric
Pull the thread snug — not tight — to avoid puckering
Work slowly for the cleanest result
Common Projects Using Ladder Stitch
Throw pillows and cushion covers
Stuffed animals and dolls
Lined bags and accessories
Garment repairs and alterations
Next month: We’ll add texture and dimension with a decorative embroidery stitch — stay tuned!
January is the season of fresh starts—and in the sewing room, that often means returning to the basics. Whether you’re mending a favorite garment, repairing household linens, or trying visible mending for the first time, hand sewing is where many stitchers reconnect with the simple satisfaction of needle and thread.
Yet even the simplest stitch can feel frustrating if the tool in your hand isn’t quite right. Choosing the right needle for hand sewing and mending can make stitches smoother, neater, and more enjoyable—and can even extend the life of the fabric you’re repairing.
Let’s take a closer look at how the right needle supports better hand sewing and mending.
The Stitching Scenario
Everyday hand sewing & mending
This category includes:
Closing seams or hems
Repairing small tears or worn spots
Attaching buttons
Darning socks or sweaters
Visible mending on garments or textiles
These projects often involve a mix of fabrics and threads, which means flexibility matters.
The Common Challenges
Many stitchers struggle with:
Thread fraying or knotting while stitching
Difficulty pulling the needle through fabric
Uneven or bulky stitches
Hand fatigue during longer mending sessions
These issues are often blamed on technique—but just as often, the needle itself is the culprit.
Why the Right Needle Matters
A hand sewing needle may look simple, but small differences make a big impact:
Eye size: Too small, and your thread frays or won’t pass through smoothly. Too large, and stitches can look sloppy.
Shaft thickness: A needle that’s too thick can damage fabric fibers; too thin, and it may bend or break.
Point style: The point determines how the needle enters fabric—cleanly or with resistance.
Length: Longer needles are helpful for basting or running stitches, while shorter needles offer more control for fine repairs.
Matching these qualities to your project improves both stitch quality and comfort.
Our Recommendation: Needles for Hand Sewing & Mending
For most general hand sewing and mending, look for:
Sharps (Sizes 7–9) These are the workhorses of hand sewing. They have:
A sharp point for easy fabric penetration
A medium eye suitable for most sewing threads
Enough strength for woven fabrics and light repairs
Sharps are ideal for hems, seam repairs, and general garment mending.
When in doubt, test your needle on a scrap of the fabric you’re repairing. If the needle glides smoothly without resistance—and the thread passes through without fraying—you’ve found a good match. If you hear fabric “popping” or feel drag, try a finer needle.
Special Considerations for Visible Mending
Visible mending is as much about expression as repair, and needle choice supports that creativity.
Use a larger eye when working with thicker threads or embroidery floss
Choose a slightly longer needle for rhythmic, even stitches
Avoid forcing thick threads through tiny eyes—it weakens both thread and fabric
The goal is durability and beauty.
Reader Takeaway: A Simple Needle Checklist
If you’re hand sewing or mending:
✔ Match needle size to fabric weight
✔ Match eye size to thread thickness
✔ Keep a small assortment on hand
✔ Replace needles that feel rough or bent
A fresh needle truly makes a difference.
Looking Ahead
Hand sewing and mending are foundational skills—and mastering them sets you up for more advanced techniques throughout the year. In our next installment of The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for embroidery on linen and other specialty fabrics.
Until then, may your stitches be smooth, your repairs satisfying, and your sewing basket well-stocked.
For years, the Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils sat in our tool kit like wallflowers at a dance—present, but not particularly noticed. We assumed they were just another marking pencil, nothing special, nothing different from the dozens of other chalks and markers cluttering our workspace.
We were so wrong.
It wasn’t until we really dug into what these pencils are made of and why they behave the way they do that we had our revelation. These aren’t just marking tools—they’re problem-solvers, game-changers, and (in the case of that silver pencil) actual unicorns.
Let us explain.
The Problem With Most Marking Tools
If you’ve been making for any length of time, you’ve probably been betrayed by a marking tool. Maybe it was the wax chalk that melted into your quilt when you accidentally hit it with an iron. Or the “disappearing” pen that left a permanent yellow ghost after washing. Or the heat-erasable marker that reappeared the moment your finished project hit cold storage.
We’ve all been there. It’s heartbreaking to spend hours—sometimes days—on a piece, only to have your marking tool leave a permanent scar.
The truth is, most marking tools involve a trade-off:
Wax-based chalks are durable and don’t rub off easily, but they can become permanent if heat is applied, and they’re notoriously difficult to remove completely.
Heat-erasable pens give you fine lines that vanish with an iron, but they often leave white “ghost” shadows or reappear in cold temperatures.
Water-erasable pens are easy to see and precise, but their chemicals can react with detergents to leave permanent yellow or brown stains if not thoroughly rinsed.
It’s a minefield. And for those of us working with precious fabrics, heirloom projects, or pieces destined for exhibition, the stakes are high.
What Makes Roxanne Different: The Chemistry of Clean
Here’s where Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils break the mold entirely.
Pure Chalk, Zero Wax Unlike most marking pencils, Roxanne pencils contain **no wax binders**. None. This means marks will never “set” into your fabric if you accidentally iron over them. The chalk stays on the surface of the fibers rather than melting into them.
Chemically Inert These pencils are mineral-based, not dye-based. There are no chemicals to react with your detergent, no dyes to oxidize over time, no “chemical roulette” that might leave rust-colored stains months after you thought your project was finished. The marks are just chalk—pure, simple, inert.
100% Water Soluble Because there’s no wax or chemical binder holding the chalk in place, Roxanne marks brush off easily or disappear completely with a damp cloth. When you’re done stitching, the roadmap vanishes—no ghosts, no shadows, no evidence it was ever there.
Archival Quality For textile artists concerned about the longevity of their work, Roxanne pencils are acid-free. Your marks won’t degrade or discolor the fabric over time, making them safe for heirloom quilts, museum-quality pieces, and everything in between.
The “Silver Unicorn” & Why It Changed Everything
If you work with dark fabrics—indigo for sashiko, black cottons, navy solids—you know the struggle. Most marking tools are either invisible on dark fabric or rub off the moment your hand touches the surface.
Enter the **Roxanne Silver Pencil**, which we now affectionately call “the unicorn.”
It Works on Everything The silver pencil uses a light-reflective mineral that creates a metallic sheen on fabric. On dark indigo or black, it glows like a beacon. On light cream or white, it shows as a soft grey. This means you can work across high-contrast patchwork—going from a dark navy sashiko block to bright white cotton—without ever switching tools.
Let that sink in for a moment. One pencil. All your fabrics.
It Survives the Handling For sashiko artists and hand quilters, this is critical. The metallic mineral base “grips” the fiber better than standard chalk, staying crisp and visible through the heavy handling that complex stitching requires. We tested this by aggressively rubbing our hand across marked fabric—the Roxanne line stayed sharp while a standard white chalk line nearby smeared into oblivion.
It Still Disappears Completely Despite its tenacious hold during the stitching process, the moment you’re done, a damp cloth or a quick wash makes it vanish. In the video, you can see the mark literally pop off the fabric with zero effort and zero residue.
It’s magic. Truly.
The Artistic Revelation: Permanent When You Want It
Here’s where things get really exciting for mixed media artists, embroiderers, and textile artists who work freehand.
Because these pencils are water-soluble, you can use them wet—dipping the tip in water and painting directly onto fabric like you would with watercolor pencils or graphite. The effect is soft, blendable, and beautifully artistic.
Once the marks dry, you can heat-set them to make them permanent. Suddenly, these aren’t just marking tools—they’re design tools. You can sketch freehand, shade, blend, and create dimensional effects that become a permanent part of your textile work.
For artists who want to move beyond rigid patterns and embrace spontaneous, organic design, this opens up an entirely new way of working.
The Bottom Line: Confidence in Every Mark
We spent years thinking Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils were just another option in an overcrowded market. We were wrong.
These pencils solve problems we didn’t even realize we’d been working around:
– The frustration of switching between light and dark fabrics
– The anxiety of wondering if marks will truly disappear
– The heartbreak of accidental permanence
– The limitation of working only from traced patterns
Whether you’re a quilter who needs marks that survive hours of hand-stitching, a sashiko artist working on dark indigo, or a textile artist who wants to sketch and paint directly on fabric, Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils deliver precision, versatility, and—most importantly—peace of mind.
Mark with confidence. Create with joy. Let Roxanne take care of the rest.
📺Watch the full video demonstration on YouTube to see the silver pencil in action and learn how to use these tools for both temporary marking and permanent artistic effects.
Have you tried Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils? We’d love to hear about your experience! Share your thoughts in the comments or tag us on social media with your projects.
