The “Extra Hand” You Can Stick Anywhere (And We Mean Anywhere)

Posted on May 12, 2026 by Colonial Needle

We Have Five Rolls of Handy Tape in Our Studio. Here’s Why:

You know a tool has become indispensable when you stop putting it back in the drawer because you might need it close at hand at any given moment. We have Handy Tape everywhere. One roll lives on the peg board over the cutting table, another lives in the top drawer of the sewing machine cabinet, and there’s one in the studio “miscellaneous supplies” box. Oh… then there’s one in the utility drawer in the kitchen for gallery wall projects and there’s one that’s currently sitting on Jason’s desk because we used it to wrap a present a few days ago instead of regular tape. Yes, you read that right. We used Handy Tape to wrap a gift. So yeah… we have it on hand pretty much everywhere. That’s how useful this stuff is.

What Even Is Handy Tape?

On the surface, Handy Tape is exactly what it sounds like: a measuring tape with a low-tack adhesive backing that sticks to things. Fabric, walls, tables, your sewing machine, even skin (more on that later). But calling it “sticky measuring tape” is like calling a rotary cutter “a round blade.” Technically accurate but missing the entire point.

Handy Tape is the third hand you’ve been wishing for when you’re trying to measure something by yourself, mark guidelines without permanent lines, or create temporary grids that actually stay put while you work. It’s repositionable, it doesn’t leave residue, and once you start using it, you’ll find yourself reaching for it in situations that have nothing to do with measuring. Like wrapping presents. (We’re still a little surprised by that one ourselves.)

How We Actually Use It (The Real List)

The Temporary Design Wall

This is probably our most-used application. We hang a flannel sheet on the wall (flannel because quilt blocks stick to it), then apply strips of Handy Tape to create a grid or border. Suddenly we have a design wall where we can space out quilt blocks, test different layouts, rearrange components of a textile art piece, and see the whole composition without committing to anything permanent.

The tape sticks to the flannel, the blocks stick to the flannel, and everything stays put while we audition different arrangements. When we’re done, we peel off the tape and the flannel sheet is clean.

Why this matters: Most design walls are either expensive foam boards or permanent installations. Either way, they take up valuable space that, personally, we don’t have. This solution costs about $12 and packs flat when you’re not using it.

The Sewing Machine Seam Guide

We have guides etched into our sewing machine’s stitch plate. They’re fine. They’re also tiny, hard to read, and easy to lose track of when you’re chain-piecing at speed. And if you sew on a machine that has seen some years of use, those lines can be worn down and faded making them all but useless. Handy Tape applied directly to the machine in front of the stich plate stitch plate creates a bold, high-contrast guide that’s impossible to miss. Just line up one of the marks on the tape with where your needle is set, and follow the clear, bold Handy Tape lines. And the low-tack backing makes it easy to reposition Handy Tape or remove it entirely without leaving sticky residue.

Bonus: It’s much easier to see on camera than etched metal lines. When we’re recording workshops or tutorials, we don’t have to zoom in and out constantly to show measurements. The tape is visible, clear, and stays exactly where we put it.

The Solo Measuring Solution for Awkward Spaces

Try measuring a doorway by yourself with a regular tape measure. One end wants to snap back. You’re holding it at arm’s length. You’re squinting to read the numbers while simultaneously trying to keep tension on the tape.

Now try it with Handy Tape: stick one end to the door frame, walk it across, stick the other end down, read the measurement. Done.

We’ve used this for:

A large living room window (trying to figure out curtain yardage or curtain rod length)
A curved chair back we were reupholstering (impossible with a rigid measuring tape or cloth tape)
Walls when we’re planning furniture placement and art placement
Any situation where you need a third hand but you’re working alone

The curved chair was a revelation. Regular measuring tapes bend but they don’t stay in place. Previously, we would use a separate roll of tape to hold our cloth tapes in place but Handy Tape does it all quickly and efficiently. We laid Handy Tape on the curve and had our measurements without the gymnastics.

Gallery Wall Spacing (No More “Oops” Holes)

Hanging multiple pieces of art or textile work in a grid is an exercise in spatial geometry and crossed fingers. Measure wrong, and you’ve got unnecessary holes in your drywall. Handy Tape lets you plan first, drill later. Stick strips to the wall to map out where each piece will go. Step back. Adjust. Move things around. When the spacing looks right, mark your hook or nail spots, hang your pieces, and peel the tape away.

No guessing. No regrets. No spackle.

Body Measurements (The Solo Solution)

Here’s a use case we discovered by accident and now recommend all the time:

Taking your own body measurements is awkward. Getting someone else to take them for you is either impossible (you live alone) or uncomfortable. Not everyone wants hands-on help, and not everyone has a person available who knows how to measure correctly. And it’s not like we’re going to run to the neighbor’s and ask them to hold the tape for us. GAH!).

Handy Tape sticks lightly to fabric and skin without leaving residue or pulling uncomfortably. Wrap it around yourself – bust, waist, hips, whatever you’re measuring – stand straight, mark the overlap point with a marker, remove the tape, and count the inches. It’s like having a tailor’s assistant who doesn’t ask questions and doesn’t judge your measurements. We give this advice constantly now. It’s especially helpful for people who sew their own garments but don’t have a sewing buddy nearby to help with fitting.

The “Not Actually Measuring” Uses

And then there are the times we use Handy Tape for things that have nothing to do with measuring at all.

In place of washi tape for mixed media art: The measuring tape marks add visual interest, and the low tack adhesive means it repositions easily on paper and fabric without tearing.
Wrapping presents: This happened just a few days ago. The tape dispenser was sitting next to a roll of washi tape we’d been using. We needed to wrap a gift. We grabbed the Handy Tape instead because it was right there. It worked perfectly. We’re not even mad about it.
Scrap bin organization: We stick strips to the top of our scrap bin lids so we can instantly check if a piece of fabric is large enough for a project without digging out a ruler or clearing off the cutting mat.
Teaching tool for workshops: When we’re demonstrating spacing for sashiko grids or blanket stitch edges, we apply Handy Tape directly to the fabric. Students can see the measurements clearly on the overhead video regardless of the classroom lighting situation. IYKYK

The Bottom Line: It’s Not Just a Measuring Tape

Here’s what we’ve learned after going through multiple rolls of this stuff:

Handy Tape isn’t solving one problem. It’s solving the “I need a measurement guide that stays put, doesn’t damage anything, and works in situations where regular tools don’t” problem.
It’s the tool you didn’t know you needed until you try it once, and then suddenly you have five rolls scattered around your workspace and house because you keep finding new uses for it. Fair warning: order a few extra rolls because others will discover just how handy Handy Tape is and yours will mysteriously disappear. Just sayin’…
Handy Tape may not be the flashiest gadget in your toolbox, but it’s one of those quiet workhorses that makes everything else easier. Measure solo. Mark temporarily. Create grids that actually stay where you put them. Wrap the occasional gift when the regular tape just isn’t special enough.

Like we said… we have it everywhere.

Ready to add a helping hand to your studio?

Shop Handy Tape He r e

Watch the video demonstration on YouTube here to see Handy Tape in action.

What’s the most creative place you’ve ever used Handy Tape? Let us know in the comments. We’re always looking for new uses we haven’t thought of yet!

Long & Short Stitch: The Secret to Smooth Shading in Embroidery

Posted on May 10, 2026 by Colonial Needle

If April was all about texture and dimension, May is about softness, shading, and color blending.

The Long & Short Stitch is a classic embroidery technique used to create smooth transitions between colors and realistic, painterly effects in thread. From flower petals to animal fur, this stitch helps embroidery designs come to life with depth and movement.

While it may look advanced, learning the basics of long & short stitch opens the door to a whole new style of embroidery.

What Is Long & Short Stitch?

The long & short stitch is a filling stitch made by alternating stitches of different lengths. By layering rows of slightly uneven stitches and blending thread colors together, embroiderers can create gradual shading and soft transitions.

Rather than creating a perfectly uniform fill, the irregular stitch lengths help colors merge naturally — much like brushstrokes in painting.

When & How It’s Used

This stitch is ideal whenever you want embroidery to feel soft, dimensional, or realistic.

It’s best for:

Floral petals and leaves
Realistic embroidery designs
Shading and color blending
Animal fur or feathers
Filled embroidery motifs

It’s one of the foundational stitches used in thread painting and advanced embroidery techniques.

What You’ll Need

Embroidery or Crewel needle
Embroidery floss (multiple shades work best)
Fabric (cotton or linen recommended)
Embroidery hoop (optional but helpful)
Small Scissors
Fabric transfer pen or pencil

Pro Tip: Choose thread colors that are close in tone for smoother blending.

How to Sew the Long & Short Stitch

Step 1: Outline Your Shape – Transfer your design onto fabric and secure it in an embroidery hoop.
Step 2: Start the First Row – Work a row of alternating long and short stitches along the edge of your shape.
Step 3: Add the Next Color – Begin the second row by stitching into the first row, overlapping slightly to blend the colors.
Step 4: Continue Layering – Repeat with additional rows, varying stitch length naturally as you fill the shape.
Step 5: Blend as You Go – Mix shades gradually to create soft transitions and depth.

Tips for Smooth Shading

Avoid making stitches too uniform
Use thread shades that blend naturally together
Keep stitches flowing in the direction of the shape
Shorter stitches work well around curves
Don’t rush — blending takes patience

The beauty of long & short stitch comes from its organic look, so perfection isn’t the goal.

Common Projects Using Long & Short Stitch

Long & short stitch is perfect for embroidery designs with movement and shading.

Try it for:

Floral embroidery
Botanical designs
Birds and animals
Monograms with shading
Thread painting projects

It’s a wonderful stitch for adding artistry and realism to your embroidery.

Next Month:
We’ll switch from soft shading to strong structure with the practical and versatile Buttonhole Stitch.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Hand Quilting & Big Stitch Quilting

Posted on April 21, 2026 by Colonial Needle

As spring settles in, quilting projects often come back into focus. Whether you’re finishing a winter quilt or starting something new, hand quilting offers a rhythm that’s both productive and calming.

From traditional, fine hand quilting to the bold, modern look of big stitch quilting, the tools you choose can dramatically shape both your experience and your results.

If your stitches feel inconsistent, your needle is difficult to control, or your hands tire quickly, the issue may not be your technique—it may be your needle.

Let’s explore how the right needle supports both traditional and big stitch quilting.

The Stitching Scenario

Hand quilting & big stitch quilting

This includes:

Traditional hand quilting with small, even stitches
Big stitch quilting using thicker thread
Quilting through layered cotton, batting, and backing
Finishing quilt edges or adding decorative quilting

These techniques require stitching through multiple layers, which makes needle choice especially important.

The Common Challenges

When hand quilting, stitchers often experience:

Difficulty rocking the needle through layers
Uneven stitch size
Needle bending or breaking
Hand fatigue or finger strain
Trouble maintaining a smooth stitching rhythm

Layered fabrics and batting create resistance, so the needle must be both strong and responsive.

Why the Right Tool Matters

For quilting, a few key needle characteristics make all the difference:

Length & Flexibility
Shorter needles are easier to rock in a quilting motion, while slightly flexible needles help create even stitches.
Shaft Strength
The needle must be strong enough to pass through multiple layers without bending.
Eye Size
A small eye works well for fine quilting thread, while a larger eye is necessary for thicker threads used in big stitch quilting.
Point Style
A sharp point helps penetrate layers cleanly, reducing strain on your hands.

Choosing the right combination allows for smoother stitching and better control.

Our Recommendation: Needles for Hand Quilting

Betweens (Quilting Needles) – Sizes 8–10
These short, slightly stiff needles are designed specifically for traditional hand quilting. Their length makes it easier to rock the needle and create small, even stitches.
Sharps – Sizes 7–9
A versatile option for quilters who prefer a slightly longer needle or need more reach through thicker layers.

Our Recommendation: Needles for Big Stitch Quilting

Embroidery (Crewel) Needles – Sizes 5–7
With a longer eye, these are ideal for accommodating thicker threads like perle cotton while maintaining a sharp point for easy stitching.
Longer Sharps – Sizes 5–7
Helpful for creating longer, more visible stitches with a smooth, steady rhythm.

Pro Tip: Find Your Rhythm

Hand quilting is as much about rhythm as technique.

Load several stitches onto your needle at once (the “rocking” method)
Keep your grip relaxed
Let the needle do the work

If stitching feels forced, try a different needle size or length—comfort and consistency go hand in hand.

Special Considerations for Batting & Layers

Different batting types affect how your needle performs:

Cotton batting offers more resistance and may require a stronger needle
Poly or blends are easier to pass through but still benefit from a sharp point

If you feel resistance, don’t force the needle—adjust your tool instead.

Reader Takeaway: Quick Checklist

When hand quilting:

✔ Choose short needles (betweens) for fine stitches
✔ Use longer needles for big stitch quilting
✔ Match eye size to your thread thickness
✔ Let the needle move smoothly through layers—don’t force it

The right needle helps you stitch with ease and consistency.

Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for cross stitch on linen and evenweave—where precision and fabric awareness are key.

Until then, enjoy the rhythm of stitching and the satisfaction of bringing your quilt to life, one stitch at a time.

Happy Stitching!

Guest Writer: Megan Zaniewski, author of Stumpwork Studio: Mastering 3-D Embroidery with some tips for selecting the correct needle type for your stumpwork embroidery projects!

Posted on April 14, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Hi! I’m Megan Zaniewski, author of Stumpwork Studio: Mastering 3-D Embroidery (C&T Publishing), and I’m guest writing for Colonial Needle today to share some tips for selecting the correct needle type for your stumpwork embroidery projects.

What is Stumpwork?

Stumpwork is the term used to describe any and all types of 3-dimensional embroidery. It includes a wide variety of techniques that create varying degrees of depth and dimension. Everything from slightly raised embroidery stitches to fully sculptural free-standing designs fall under the broad umbrella of stumpwork. In this guide, I will be sharing needle recommendations for the following stumpwork embroidery techniques: surface beading, thread-wrapped beading, beaded slips, wireslips, fabric applique, felt padding, and dimensional stitches.

Why is needle choice important?

Did you know there are 100’s of needle variations? Navigating the many needle options out there can feel overwhelming even for an experienced embroiderer. And though the differences between different types of needles may seem slight or insignificant, choosing the appropriate needle for your project can make a big difference in both your stitching experience and the quality and look of your finished work.

When worked with stranded cotton embroidery thread, many stumpwork techniques can be accomplished with Sharps or Embroidery/Crewel needles . In some cases, though, you may find it easier or even necessary to work with other types of needles. While it can be helpful to have a small variety of needles available on hand, you certainly do not need to stockpile every needle type. With just the following 6 needles, you’ll be able to comfortably accomplish a wide variety of stumpwork techniques.

An Overview of My 6 Essential Needles

Needles have four variables: their point profile, diameter (i.e. thickness), eye size, and length. Understanding each needle type’s unique characteristics and how those features affect its function will help inform your needle choice.

Sharps
These are general purpose sewing needles with a sharp point and small, rounded eye. They are well suited for many embroidery techniques and stitches done with sewing, silk, and cotton thread.
Embroidery/Crewel
Embroidery/Crewel needles have a longer eye than a standard Sharps needle that can better accommodate multiple strands of thread. It also makes threading the needle easier. Otherwise, their length, diameter and point profile is the same as a Sharps needle. They are also suitable for many embroidery techniques worked in silk and cotton thread.
Tapestry
Tapestry needles feature a blunt tip, large eye, and thick profile. They are designed to accommodate thicker, often delicate fibers like tapestry wool. The needle’s thick diameter creates a hole large enough for the thread to pass through the fabric easily with very minimal friction (which can cause wear and tear). Its blunt tip does not pierce fabric well, so this needle is best suited for canvaswork. The blunt tip also makes it an ideal needle for working dimensional stitches in stumpwork designs, such as woven stitches and detached stitches which require careful maneuvering apart from a fabric base.
Chenille
Chenille needles are identical to Tapestry needles in length, diameter, and eye size. These features make it well suited for working with thicker, textured, or more delicate specialty fibers like tapestry wool, silk ribbon, wool-silk blends, metallic threads, linen threads, and more. The difference between a Chenille needle and Tapestry needle is its point profile. A Chenille needle has a sharp point, enabling the needle and fiber to pass through even thick or coarse fabrics easily.
Milliner
Milliner needles are similar to a Sharps needle. They have the same sharp point profile and small rounded eye as a Sharps needle, but they are longer. Their long length and small eye make them helpful needles for working dimensional stitches that require wrapping the thread around the needle multiple times (like Cast-on Stitch and Bullion knots).
Beading
Beading needles are made from steel wire, with a sharp point and a very long and thin profile. The eye is also small, allowing the needle to pass through beads and sequins easily without getting stuck. The long length allows you to easily scoop up and thread multiple beads at once.

With the defining features of each needle type in mind, let’s take a look at some stumpwork techniques and my recommended needle for each one.

Needles for Beading Techniques

Beads are a highly versatile material in stumpwork embroidery. As surface decoration, beads can elevate a design with texture, dimension, and sparkle. Beading needles are most often the suitable choice for embroidering with beads. Their elongated and uniformly thin profile allows you to easily scoop and thread even the smallest seed beads. Keep in mind, these needles are very long and pliable so they are prone to bending if used too roughly. If you find beading needles too difficult to maneuver, you can try working with a thin-sized embroidery/crewel needle such as a size #11 instead. This size will still accommodate many bead sizes, even the smallest seed beads.

Surface beading is used to mimic bubbles and add sparkle to this stumpwork swan design

Beads can also be used to create more sculptural forms with a technique called a beaded slip. With this technique, beads are embroidered onto a flat surface before being sewn into a rounded shape. This technique is helpful for recreating things like berries or a flower center, though it can be modified in many ways for an entirely different look (ex. try using French knots instead of beads). Beading needles are again the most suitable needle for working this technique, though thin embroidery/crewel needles may also be used as an alternative for most bead sizes.

Another way that beads can be used as a sculptural element in an embroidery design is through a bead-wrapping technique. Bead-wrapping involves covering the bead (or another similar bead-like form made from clay, paper, cotton, etc) with thread. Wrapped-beads can be used in innumerous ways. In nature motifs, they can serve as berries, insect eyes, flower buds, seeds, eggs, and more. Beads with larger holes make the best forms for this technique, as they can better accommodate the thread’s bulk as it is wrapped around the bead. Because the interior of the bead can become quite densely packed with thread, I recommend using a chenille needle for this technique. Its strong and sharp profile will prevent it from bending or breaking under pressure as you pass it through the densely packed bead.

Wrapping a bead with cotton thread and a chenille needle

Blueberries made from thread-wrapped beads

Needles for Raised Stitches

Raised stitches are a simple yet effective way to add texture and dimension to an embroidery design without additional materials or supplies. All you need is a needle and thread.

The type of needle you need will depend on the type of stitch and fiber you are working with. For many stitches worked in stranded cotton embroidery thread, a Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle is suitable. For example, Turkey Stitch, which produces a tufted rug-like effect that can be trimmed and shaped, can be worked with cotton thread and a crewel needle to add a fuzzy texture to a design.

Turkey stitch worked in stranded cotton onto the wings and body of an Io moth

When working the same stitch with larger or more delicate fibers, such as silk or wool, I recommend using a chenille needle. The thicker profile will allow the threads to pass through the fabric more easily, preventing fraying or breakage.

Turkey Stitch moss and grass created with a variety of wool and silk threads and a chenille needle

If you find yourself struggling with some raised stitches, you may find that switching to a Milliner’s needle makes all the difference. For example, stitches that require you to wrap the thread around the needle multiple times before passing it through the fabric, such as French Knots and Bullion Knots, are best executed with a Milliner’s needle. Its long, straight shaft has an even diameter from tip to eye, allowing the wrapped threads to glide through more easily, preventing tangles and knots.

With other dimensional stitches that require you to weave or manipulate the thread in more complicated maneuvers (such as the Woven Picot or a Brussels Stitch), I suggest using a tapestry needle. Its blunt tip will help prevent you from piercing the thread as you weave the stitches.

An acorn cap stitched with a woven Brussels Stitch, using a wool-silk blend thread and tapestry needle

These are just a few examples of the many ways that stitches can be used in stumpwork designs, giving your embroidery a 3-dimensional effect. If you are trying out a new-to-you stitch and are unsure of what needle to use, as a general rule, consider the characteristics of the thread you are working with (ex. stranded cotton vs a more delicate fiber) and how the stitch is executed (ex. surface, woven, wrapped, etc). These factors can help guide you.

TIP: For stitch tutorials and inspiration, I highly recommend checking out the Stitch Bank by the Royal School of Needlework, a free and comprehensive resource that includes over 500 stitches with information about their history, applications, and full step-by-step video and photo instructions.

Needles for Wirework

Wires can be used in a variety of different ways to add dimension to an embroidery design. One popular and easy-to-learn technique is called a wireslip, where wire is embroidered along the edge of a design. This framework allows you to cut out the embroidery and either display it alone or attach it to a base as a 3-dimensional feature. When embroidering over the wire, it is important to keep your stitches as neat and precise as possible and work with a fine yet strong cotton or silk thread. For this reason, I always recommend using a Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle when working a wireslip (a size #10 is ideal when working with 1 strand). The thin point and profile of these needles allow you to stitch as closely to the wire as possible, resulting in a clean and tidy edge to your design.

Embroidering over a wireslip leaf with a single strand of cotton thread and a size 10 embroidery needle

Wings worked with the wireslip technique give this Old World Swallowtail butterfly a 3-dimensional, life-like look

Needles for Padding and Applique

Fabrics can serve as more than just a base for your embroidery. With a couple of applique techniques, fabrics can add height and texture to your embroidery design.

Felt padding is a beginner-friendly technique that creates a raised shape to embroider over. In this technique, layers of wool felt are stitched to your fabric base in increasing size, resulting in a firmly padded form that rises above the fabric background. These wool felt pieces are appliqued in place with a single strand of cotton thread. To ensure that you are creating neat stitches as close to the edge of the felt as possible, I recommend using a size 10 Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle.

Felt padding stitched to a fabric base, ready to be embroidered

The finished stumpwork river otter embroidered over the padded base

Fabrics can also be used to add visual interest to a design with padded applique. Textured fabrics, such as fleece, velvet, faux fur, leather, and vinyl are ideal for this technique as they offer interesting textures and do not fray when cut. The cut fabrics can either be sewn directly to the base or padded with a layer of stuffing between it and the base for extra height. This technique is also worked with a single strand of cotton thread near the edge of the fabric. So to keep your stitches precise and well-disguised, I again recommend using a size 10 Sharp or Embroidery/Crewel needle.

Appliqueing grass on a fabric base with a single strand of cotton thread and an embroidery needle

A hedgehog stitched with the padded applique technique

These are just a few of the ways you can explore stitch, fiber, and technique to create 3-dimensional embroidery designs. For more ideas and in-depth step-by-step tutorials, please check out my book, Stumpwork Studio: Mastering 3-D Embroidery. I hope that this needle selection guide helps take some of the guesswork out of choosing the right needle for your projects, especially if you are exploring stumpwork embroidery for the first time. While this guide can help you make an informed choice between your needle options, please remember there are no rules when it comes to embroidery. Above all else, stitching should be comfortable and fun. So, I encourage you to experiment with different needle types to get a feel for what works best for you.

Happy stitching!

Couching Stitch: Add Texture and Dimension with Decorative Thread

Posted on April 7, 2026 by Colonial Needle

As spring projects become more creative and expressive, it’s the perfect time to introduce a stitch that goes beyond basic threadwork.

The couching stitch allows you to work with thicker threads, yarns, and even ribbons by securing them to the fabric surface with small stitches. The result? Bold texture, striking lines, and endless creative possibilities.

If you’re looking to add dimension and personality to your stitching, couching is a technique worth exploring.

What Is a Couching Stitch?

The couching stitch is a technique where a thicker thread (or material) is laid on top of the fabric and secured in place with smaller stitches using a separate thread.

Instead of passing the main thread through the fabric, it “rests” on the surface — while the smaller stitches anchor it down.

This makes couching ideal for materials that are too thick, delicate, or decorative to stitch through the fabric directly.

When & How It’s Used

Couching is incredibly versatile and works well in both traditional and modern stitching.

It’s best for:

Decorative outlines and bold lines
Working with thick threads, yarn, or ribbon
Adding texture to embroidery designs
Highlighting shapes or lettering
Mixed-media or creative textile projects

It’s especially popular in contemporary embroidery and fiber art, where texture and layering play a big role.

What You’ll Need

Needle (sharp or embroidery needle)
Two types of thread:
– A thicker thread, yarn, or ribbon (the “couched” thread)
– A finer thread to secure it
Fabric (medium to heavy weight works best)
Embroidery hoop (optional but helpful)
Scissors

Pro Tip: Choose a fine thread that either blends in or contrasts intentionally with your thicker thread.

How to Sew a couching stitch

Step 1: Lay the Thread – Place your thicker thread or yarn along the surface of your fabric in your desired shape or line.
Step 2: Bring Needle Up – Bring your needle (with the finer thread) up next to the thicker thread.
Step 3: Anchor the Thread – Make a small stitch over the thicker thread, securing it to the fabric.
Step 4: Repeat at Intervals – Continue making small stitches over the thicker thread at regular intervals to hold it in place.
Step 5: Follow Your Design – Shape the couched thread as you go, guiding it into curves, lines, or patterns.

Tips for Successful Couching

Keep anchoring stitches evenly spaced
Don’t pull too tightly — allow the top thread to sit naturally
Experiment with contrast vs. matching thread
Use shorter anchoring stitches for curves
Try different materials (metallics, wool, ribbon)

Couching is all about experimentation — there’s no single “right” look.

Common Projects Using Couching Stitch

Couching is perfect for projects that benefit from bold texture:

Decorative embroidery and hoop art
Lettering and monograms
Outlines in modern embroidery
Textile art and mixed-media pieces
Embellishing garments or accessories

It’s a great stitch for stepping outside traditional embroidery and exploring more creative techniques.

Next Month:
We’ll explore Long & Short Stitch, a technique that brings shading and soft color blending to your embroidery.

The “Magic Wand” of Your Sewing Kit (A Guide to Needle Threaders)

Posted on March 16, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Why You Should Never Struggle to Thread a Needle Again

We’ve all been there: you’re in the flow of a beautiful Sashiko piece or a delicate EPP project, and then… you have to re-thread. Suddenly, you’re squinting, snipping thread ends, and losing your “stitching zen.”

At a recent workshop, we realized that while most of us know what a needle threader is, many of us aren’t using the right one or we weren’t taught how to use them. Since our friends at Colonial Needle Company sent us their full lineup to test, we’re breaking down which threader belongs in your kit and how to use them for both hand and machine sewing.

Meet the Lineup

Not all needle threaders are created equal. Depending on your project, you might need a different “wand”:

Colonial Dual Threader: This is the one that lives in our sewing machine tray. It features a long handle (perfect for reaching into tight machine spaces) and two different wire sizes: a standard end and an extra-large end for thicker threads or Pearl Cotton
Ultrafine Threader with Cutter: The “must-have” for Sashiko and fine appliqué. The wire is incredibly thin to fit through tiny needle eyes, and the built-in cutter means you don’t have to reach for your scissors every time you finish a strand.
Roxanne Needle Threaders: If you do a lot of hand quilting or beading, these are legendary. They are patented, exceptionally fine, and designed to be sturdy enough for repetitive use without the wire snapping.
John James Threaders: These are the gold standard for traditional hand sewing. They are simple, reliable, and come in various sizes to match your favorite John James needles.

How to Use a Needle Threader (The Correct Way!)

For Hand Sewing:

The Insert: Hold the needle threader by the handle and slide the wire loop through the eye of your needle.
The Thread: Pass your thread through the large wire loop (not the tiny needle eye!).
The Pull: Gently pull the wire loop back through the needle eye. The wire will carry the thread right through.

For Machine Sewing:

The Positioning: Ensure your needle is in the highest position.
The Reach: Using the Colonial Dual Threader, insert the wire loop through the needle eye from the back to the front (or side to side, depending on your machine).
The Magic: Place your thread in the loop and pull the threader back through.

Pro Tip: If you’re using the Ultrafine Threader, be gentle! These are high-precision tools. If the wire feels stuck, don’t force it—ensure your thread weight is appropriate for your needle size.

Watch the Step-by-Step

Want to see these in action? We filmed a quick tutorial demonstrating exactly how we use the Ultrafine Threader for Sashiko and the Dual Threader at the machine.

It’s funny how the simplest tools can sometimes be the most intimidating… until someone shows you the trick! Whether you’re a lifelong quilter or just starting your first Sashiko project, there is no shame in reaching for a ‘magic wand’ to save your eyes (and your sanity).

Now we want to hear from you: Is there a tool in your sewing tray that you still aren’t quite sure how to use? Or maybe you have a threading hack of your own? Let’s chat in the comments below!

Until next time…

STITCH ON!!
S&J