Tag Archives: hand sewing

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Hand Sewing & Mending

Posted on by

January is the season of fresh starts—and in the sewing room, that often means returning to the basics. Whether you’re mending a favorite garment, repairing household linens, or trying visible mending for the first time, hand sewing is where many stitchers reconnect with the simple satisfaction of needle and thread.

Yet even the simplest stitch can feel frustrating if the tool in your hand isn’t quite right. Choosing the right needle for hand sewing and mending can make stitches smoother, neater, and more enjoyable—and can even extend the life of the fabric you’re repairing.

Let’s take a closer look at how the right needle supports better hand sewing and mending.

The Stitching Scenario

Everyday hand sewing & mending

This category includes:

  • Closing seams or hems
  • Repairing small tears or worn spots
  • Attaching buttons
  • Darning socks or sweaters
  • Visible mending on garments or textiles

These projects often involve a mix of fabrics and threads, which means flexibility matters.

The Common Challenges

Many stitchers struggle with:

  • Thread fraying or knotting while stitching
  • Difficulty pulling the needle through fabric
  • Uneven or bulky stitches
  • Hand fatigue during longer mending sessions

These issues are often blamed on technique—but just as often, the needle itself is the culprit.

Why the Right Needle Matters

A hand sewing needle may look simple, but small differences make a big impact:

  • Eye size: Too small, and your thread frays or won’t pass through smoothly. Too large, and stitches can look sloppy.
  • Shaft thickness: A needle that’s too thick can damage fabric fibers; too thin, and it may bend or break.
  • Point style: The point determines how the needle enters fabric—cleanly or with resistance.
  • Length: Longer needles are helpful for basting or running stitches, while shorter needles offer more control for fine repairs.

Matching these qualities to your project improves both stitch quality and comfort.

Our Recommendation: Needles for Hand Sewing & Mending

For most general hand sewing and mending, look for:

Sharps (Sizes 7–9)
These are the workhorses of hand sewing. They have:

  • A sharp point for easy fabric penetration
  • A medium eye suitable for most sewing threads
  • Enough strength for woven fabrics and light repairs
  • Sharps are ideal for hems, seam repairs, and general garment mending.
Shop Colonial Needle’s Sharps Here

Betweens or Quilting Needles (Sizes 8–10)
Shorter and slightly stiffer, these offer excellent control for:

  • Small, precise stitches
  • Reinforcing worn areas
  • Fine, nearly invisible mending
Shop Colonial Needle’s Betweens Here

Darners (Sizes 5–7)
Helpful for:

  • Running stitches
  • Basting repairs before machine sewing
  • Visible mending designs

A small assortment allows you to adapt easily as projects change.

Shop Colonial Needle’s Darners Here

Pro Tip: Let the Fabric Lead

When in doubt, test your needle on a scrap of the fabric you’re repairing. If the needle glides smoothly without resistance—and the thread passes through without fraying—you’ve found a good match. If you hear fabric “popping” or feel drag, try a finer needle.

Special Considerations for Visible Mending

Visible mending is as much about expression as repair, and needle choice supports that creativity.

  • Use a larger eye when working with thicker threads or embroidery floss
  • Choose a slightly longer needle for rhythmic, even stitches
  • Avoid forcing thick threads through tiny eyes—it weakens both thread and fabric

The goal is durability and beauty.

Reader Takeaway: A Simple Needle Checklist

If you’re hand sewing or mending:

  • ✔ Match needle size to fabric weight
  • ✔ Match eye size to thread thickness
  • ✔ Keep a small assortment on hand
  • ✔ Replace needles that feel rough or bent

A fresh needle truly makes a difference.

Looking Ahead

Hand sewing and mending are foundational skills—and mastering them sets you up for more advanced techniques throughout the year. In our next installment of The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for embroidery on linen and other specialty fabrics.

Until then, may your stitches be smooth, your repairs satisfying, and your sewing basket well-stocked.

Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils: The Game-Changer We Didn’t Know We Needed

Posted on by

We’ll be honest: we almost overlooked these.

For years, the Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils sat in our tool kit like wallflowers at a dance—present, but not particularly noticed. We assumed they were just another marking pencil, nothing special, nothing different from the dozens of other chalks and markers cluttering our workspace.

We were so wrong.

It wasn’t until we really dug into what these pencils are made of and why they behave the way they do that we had our revelation. These aren’t just marking tools—they’re problem-solvers, game-changers, and (in the case of that silver pencil) actual unicorns.

Let us explain.

The Problem With Most Marking Tools

If you’ve been making for any length of time, you’ve probably been betrayed by a marking tool. Maybe it was the wax chalk that melted into your quilt when you accidentally hit it with an iron. Or the “disappearing” pen that left a permanent yellow ghost after washing. Or the heat-erasable marker that reappeared the moment your finished project hit cold storage.

We’ve all been there. It’s heartbreaking to spend hours—sometimes days—on a piece, only to have your marking tool leave a permanent scar.

The truth is, most marking tools involve a trade-off:

  • Wax-based chalks are durable and don’t rub off easily, but they can become permanent if heat is applied, and they’re notoriously difficult to remove completely.
  • Heat-erasable pens give you fine lines that vanish with an iron, but they often leave white “ghost” shadows or reappear in cold temperatures.
  • Water-erasable pens are easy to see and precise, but their chemicals can react with detergents to leave permanent yellow or brown stains if not thoroughly rinsed.

It’s a minefield. And for those of us working with precious fabrics, heirloom projects, or pieces destined for exhibition, the stakes are high.

What Makes Roxanne Different: The Chemistry of Clean

Here’s where Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils break the mold entirely.

  • Pure Chalk, Zero Wax
    Unlike most marking pencils, Roxanne pencils contain **no wax binders**. None. This means marks will never “set” into your fabric if you accidentally iron over them. The chalk stays on the surface of the fibers rather than melting into them.
  • Chemically Inert
    These pencils are mineral-based, not dye-based. There are no chemicals to react with your detergent, no dyes to oxidize over time, no “chemical roulette” that might leave rust-colored stains months after you thought your project was finished. The marks are just chalk—pure, simple, inert.
  • 100% Water Soluble
    Because there’s no wax or chemical binder holding the chalk in place, Roxanne marks brush off easily or disappear completely with a damp cloth. When you’re done stitching, the roadmap vanishes—no ghosts, no shadows, no evidence it was ever there.
  • Archival Quality
    For textile artists concerned about the longevity of their work, Roxanne pencils are acid-free. Your marks won’t degrade or discolor the fabric over time, making them safe for heirloom quilts, museum-quality pieces, and everything in between.

The “Silver Unicorn” & Why It Changed Everything

If you work with dark fabrics—indigo for sashiko, black cottons, navy solids—you know the struggle. Most marking tools are either invisible on dark fabric or rub off the moment your hand touches the surface.

Enter the **Roxanne Silver Pencil**, which we now affectionately call “the unicorn.”

  • It Works on Everything
    The silver pencil uses a light-reflective mineral that creates a metallic sheen on fabric. On dark indigo or black, it glows like a beacon. On light cream or white, it shows as a soft grey. This means you can work across high-contrast patchwork—going from a dark navy sashiko block to bright white cotton—without ever switching tools.

    Let that sink in for a moment. One pencil. All your fabrics.
  • It Survives the Handling
    For sashiko artists and hand quilters, this is critical. The metallic mineral base “grips” the fiber better than standard chalk, staying crisp and visible through the heavy handling that complex stitching requires. We tested this by aggressively rubbing our hand across marked fabric—the Roxanne line stayed sharp while a standard white chalk line nearby smeared into oblivion.
  • It Still Disappears Completely
    Despite its tenacious hold during the stitching process, the moment you’re done, a damp cloth or a quick wash makes it vanish. In the video, you can see the mark literally pop off the fabric with zero effort and zero residue.

It’s magic. Truly.

The Artistic Revelation: Permanent When You Want It

Here’s where things get really exciting for mixed media artists, embroiderers, and textile artists who work freehand.

Because these pencils are water-soluble, you can use them wet—dipping the tip in water and painting directly onto fabric like you would with watercolor pencils or graphite. The effect is soft, blendable, and beautifully artistic.

Once the marks dry, you can heat-set them to make them permanent. Suddenly, these aren’t just marking tools—they’re design tools. You can sketch freehand, shade, blend, and create dimensional effects that become a permanent part of your textile work.

For artists who want to move beyond rigid patterns and embrace spontaneous, organic design, this opens up an entirely new way of working.

The Bottom Line: Confidence in Every Mark

We spent years thinking Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils were just another option in an overcrowded market. We were wrong.

These pencils solve problems we didn’t even realize we’d been working around:

– The frustration of switching between light and dark fabrics

– The anxiety of wondering if marks will truly disappear

– The heartbreak of accidental permanence

– The limitation of working only from traced patterns

Whether you’re a quilter who needs marks that survive hours of hand-stitching, a sashiko artist working on dark indigo, or a textile artist who wants to sketch and paint directly on fabric, Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils deliver precision, versatility, and—most importantly—peace of mind.

Mark with confidence. Create with joy. Let Roxanne take care of the rest.

Ready to Try Them Yourself?

👉 Shop Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils here.

📺Watch the full video demonstration on YouTube to see the silver pencil in action and learn how to use these tools for both temporary marking and permanent artistic effects.

Have you tried Roxanne Chalk Marking Pencils? We’d love to hear about your experience! Share your thoughts in the comments or tag us on social media with your projects.

Teacher Tips & Techniques: Encouraging Stitchers to Sew On and On

Posted on by

Featuring the Hearts to You Mug Rug Project

Reflecting on years past, when I was preschool age, my parents and I lived in an old three-story schoolhouse in Venice, Ohio. It sat quietly in the country, across the road from a cemetery, and was partitioned down the middle—our family on one side, a family of six on the other. I remember tagging along with my mother to the feed store, carefully choosing three printed chicken feed sacks that matched just right. She hand-stitched them into a new dress for me—clothing made from what is now considered a collector’s item.

Perhaps living in a schoolhouse and wearing feed-sack dresses was an early hint of what was down the road for me: a lifelong love of stitching, teaching, and encouraging others to create with their hands.

Over the years, I’ve taught countless “newbies” and not-so-newbies alike. My goal has always been the same—to help students feel confident, capable, and excited enough to keep sewing long after the class ends. The Hearts to You Mug Rug project is a perfect vehicle for that mission. It’s approachable, adaptable, and full of opportunities for learning and creativity.

Hearts to You Mug Rug Project

Fabrics

  • 5” square felted white wool (top circle)
  • 5” square felted red wool (bottom circle)
  • 2 ¼” x 7” felted red wool (heart appliqués)

Notions

Step-by-Step Project Instructions

This simple wool appliqué project is designed to build confidence while introducing or reinforcing basic hand-stitching skills. Encourage students to work at their own pace and remember: progress matters more than perfection.

Step 1: Prepare the Base Circles

Using the 5” felted white wool square and the 5” felted red wool square, cut one circle from each.

  • The white circle will be your top/background.
  • The red circle will be the base layer.

Tip: If students struggle with cutting smooth curves, provide a paper template or encourage slow, small scissor movements rather than long cuts.

Step 2: Layer and Secure

Place the white circle on top of the red circle, centering it carefully.

  • Use pins, clips, Roxanne Basting Glue, or a few temporary basting stitches to hold the layers together.
  • Check that the red shows evenly around the edges for a neat border.

Teaching moment: This is a great time to discuss alignment, balance, and how layering adds visual interest.

Step 3: Cut the Heart Appliqués

From the 2 ¼” x 7” piece of felted red wool, cut two small hearts.

  • Hearts do not need to be identical—slight variations add charm.
  • Encourage students to draw heart shapes lightly with pencil if helpful.

Ask: How could you change the shape or size of the hearts to make this project your own?

Step 4: Position the Hearts

Arrange the hearts on the white circle until you’re happy with the placement.

  • Overlapping hearts create depth and interest.
  • Once positioned, secure with pins, glue, or a few basting stitches.

Visual learners benefit from seeing multiple layout examples before stitching.

Step 5: Thread the Needle

Thread a John James Chenille Needle, size 22 with Presencia Perle Cotton size 8, color #9250.

  • Use a Needle Grip-It if needed to improve control and comfort.
  • Tie a knot at the end of the thread.

Word clue reminder: “The older I get, the finer I am.” (Thicker thread = larger needle.)

Step 6: Stitch the Hearts in Place

Using a simple blanket stitch or whip stitch, appliqué the hearts onto the white circle.

  • Keep stitches evenly spaced.
  • Remind students that stitches don’t need to be perfect to be effective.

Encouragement: An error is not a terror! Wool is forgiving and easy to adjust.

Step 7: Stitch the Circles Together

Stitch around the edge of the white circle, securing it to the red circle beneath.

  • A blanket stitch works well and adds a decorative finish.
  • Rotate the project as you stitch to maintain consistent spacing.

Tip: Take breaks to avoid hand fatigue and maintain stitch quality.

Step 8: Finish and Secure

When you reach your starting point:

  • Take a small securing stitch.
  • Run the needle between layers for about an inch and trim the thread close to the fabric.

This hides the thread tail and creates a clean finish.

Step 9: Show, Share, and Reflect

Invite students to share their finished mug rugs.

Discussion prompts:

  • What stitch or step was your favorite?
  • What was challenging?
  • Where else could you use this technique?

Celebrate each piece—every project tells a story.

Teaching Tips & Techniques That Set Students Up for Success

Start with Connection

  1. Introduce yourself. Let students know who you are—not just as a teacher, but as a stitcher. A personal story builds trust.
  2. Learn where your students are from. Geography, background, and experience all shape how people learn.
  3. Set and state your goal clearly. Whether it’s mastering a stitch or completing the project, clarity matters.
  4. Ask students about their goals. When learners name their own objectives, they’re more invested.

Create a Positive Learning Environment

  1. Set students up for success—and be positive. Confidence grows in encouraging spaces.
  2. “We are successful because we are flexible.” Adjust pacing, methods, and expectations as needed.
  3. Simplify wherever possible. Break techniques into manageable steps.
  4. Set high standards for yourself. Preparation and enthusiasm are contagious.
  5. Manage time wisely and plan ahead. A smooth class keeps frustration at bay.
  6. Provide extra tools—scissors, pencils, needles, fabrics, notions—and label them clearly.

Teach to All Learning Styles

  1. Identify learning styles: visual, auditory, kinesthetic—or a combination.
  2. Make accommodations: Needle Grip-Its, good lighting, comfortable seating, and adequate workspace go a long way.
  3. “An error is not a terror.” Mistakes are learning opportunities.
  4. “It is okay to break rules.” Creativity often lives just beyond them.
  5. Expect the unexpected. Threads tangle, needles bend, plans change—and that’s okay.

Show, Tell, and Practice

  1. Use visuals and drawings. Sometimes a sketch explains more than words.
  2. Demonstrate for large groups and again for smaller groups when needed.
  3. Provide time for guided practice. Stitch alongside students.
  4. Allow independent practice while monitoring and encouraging.
  5. Vary group sizes and group members. Learning from peers is powerful.
  6. Use pull-out groups for extra help or advanced exploration.
  7. Show and share as you go. Celebrate progress, not just finished pieces.

Use Clues and Encouragement

  1. Word clues:
    “Just like me, the older I get, the finer I am. The same is true for thread and hand sewing needles. Sewing machine needles are the opposite.”
  2. Visual clues:
    Place a sticker in the top right-hand corner of a square-up ruler to indicate step one.
  3. Reduce frustration: Encourage breaks, mark with tape, and avoid Sharpie markers on fabric.

Engage Creativity and Reflection

  1. Engage students with questions:
  • How could you change the design?
  • Which color do you prefer?
  • How did you get that corner so sharp?
  • What would you do differently next time?
  1. Transfer learning: Where else could you use this technique?
  2. Check back: What did you learn today?
  3. Reflect together: What would you keep, eliminate, or change?
  4. Appoint “maestras.” Peer leaders build confidence and community.
  5. Keep it FUN! Joy is the best teacher of all.

Sewing Beyond the Project

The Hearts to You Mug Rug may be a small piece, but it carries big lessons—about patience, flexibility, creativity, and community. When students leave class feeling successful and eager to stitch again, we’ve done our job.

After all, sewing isn’t just about thread and fabric. It’s about stories passed down, skills shared, and hearts stitched into every piece.

Happy Stitching!

Judy Moore Pullen

Presencia Corner Bookmarks

Posted on by

September is here, which means the light shifts, the air cools (a little), and suddenly every book on the shelf starts whispering, *pick me up*. For makers, there’s a special magic in pairing fabric and thread with the quiet rhythm of turning pages. That’s where this month’s project comes in: the fabric corner bookmark.

It’s quick, it’s clever, and it’s stitched with Presencia thread — so it’s not just any bookmark, it’s a handmade one that will stay strong through chapter after chapter. Think of it as a tiny quilt block that holds your place between paragraphs.

The beauty of this project is how well it speaks to two parts of our community:

  1. The makers – You already have fabric scraps begging for a purpose and Presencia 40 wt and 12 wt ready to shine.
  2. The readers – Every book lover you know (including you!) could use a few of these tucked into novels, cookbooks, or pattern books.

They’re small enough to batch-make, personal enough to feel like a gift, and durable enough to actually be used. Which makes them just about perfect, right?

And here’s the twist we didn’t see coming until we tried it ourselves: these little bookmarks moonlight as coasters. Slip it off your book page, set it under your coffee mug or tea cup, and you’ve got a soft landing spot for your drink while you read. From page corner to tabletop — multifunctional stitching at its finest.

Presencia’s 40 wt Sewing Thread gives your machine-stitched edges that neat, polished look, while the chunkier 12 wt Perle Cotton brings personality when you hand-embroider a design or initial. However you finish them, they’re proof that thread isn’t just what holds projects together — it’s what makes them shine.

So gather your scraps, grab your Presencia, and make a little stack of bookmarks for yourself and your fellow book lovers. After all, stories are better when they’re shared — and so are stitches.

📄 Download the project handout below.
▶️ Watch the full tutorial on YouTube here.
🧵 Shop all Presencia threads here.

Corner Bookmark handoutDownload

A Step-by-Step Guide to Stitching Kogin-zashi Through Evenweave Fabric onto Garments

Posted on by

Got a shirt that’s seen better days (and maybe one too many spaghetti dinners)? Give it a new lease on life—just grab some Colonial Persian Wool yarn and a small piece of evenweave fabric for an embroidery makeover that screams creativity louder than any stain. With this easy project, your favorite shirt, skirt, or pants will be rocking sashiko-inspired style and a fresh story to tell.

The Canvas: Selecting and Preparing Evenweave Fabric

Evenweave fabric is just that… even. The warp and weft threads are evenly spaced, setting you up for precise, symmetrical stitching. Common types— Davosa, Lugana, Aida, Hardinger, ect—come in various thread counts. For this project we recommend a 16–18 count evenweave; it’s just the right size to stitch up crisp geometric patterns. Don’t go out and buy the most expensive you can find… it does not end up in the final product. This is a great way to use up small leftover pieces of evenweave!

Threads and Tools

  • Thread: Traditional kogin-zashi is all about thick cotton threads and floss, but hey, the modern crafter lives for something new—so we decided to give Colonial Persian Wool a shot. Wowzah, were we impressed with the results! It’s toothy and stands out beautifully in the final shirt!
  • Needle: Kogin needles tend to be longer and sturdier than a regular embroidery needle, suitable for thick threads and weaving through heavier fabric. We really like Colonial Needle’s Short Bullion Needles with Tapestry tips for this.
  • Thimble: Colonial Needle’s Palm Thimble is the perfect tool for pushing the needle through both layers of fabric with ease.
  • Hoop: Embroidery hoops were not traditionally used in kogin stitching but are essential for this type of surface embroidery/visible mending. You’ll need a hoop at least 3’’ in diameter for a single motif or larger depending on the size of the spot you’re covering. Don’t worry… Colonial Needle Company has so many types and sizes of hoops, you’ll find what you need.

Modoko

We have provided a simple kogin motif (called a modoko) for you to use below. For more examples of modoko (both small and complex) check out our book Contemporary Kogin-zashi.

Kogin Modoko for CNCDownload

How To Stitch Kogin-zashi:

  1. Center the evenweave fabric on the stain on the right side of the shirt. Next, place the embroidery hoop over both the shirt fabric and the evenweave.
  2. Thread your needle. For this weight of fabric, we thread our needle with 2 strands of Colonial Persian Wool. You might prefer to use more or less depending on how dense or how puffy you like your stitches. Practice the motif of scrap fabric at least once to decide what you best like.
  3. Mark the center of the evenweave fabric to ensure your motif will be centered over the spot.
  4. Count over the number of threads from the center of the fabric to the left or right side of the center line of the motif. Then, working from the back, bring the needle up through both the shirt and evenweave fabric. Be careful to bring your needle up through up through the open holes of the evenweave fabric to prevent splitting the threads. Leave a small tail on the back for weaving in later.
  5. Work all the stitches in one row then turn your work and follow the next row of the pattern. Continue until you reach the top of the motif. Once the first half is complete return to the center row and work the second half in the opposite direction.First half of kogin-zashi design
  6. Continue working row by row until the motif is complete. Secure thread ends neatly on the back.
  7. After creating the motif and weaving in the ends of your yarn cut the excess evenweave fabric away then carefully remove the remaining evenweave by pulling strands of the fabric out one at a time. Once you are done removing the evenweave you will have a kogin motif sewn directly to your garment.
    pulling threads once motif is stitched

Kogin-zashi patterns are worked in horizontal rows, with stitches typically spanning an odd number of threads.  The signature of kogin-zashi is its counting method: stitches pass over and under one, three, five, or seven threads. It’s a simple matter of reading each row of the chart and stitching what you see on it. Each horizontal row of stitches sets snuggly against the neighboring rows to build the solid motif.

Tips for successful stitching:

  • Maintain even tension; stitches should lie flat but not pucker the fabric.
  • Count threads carefully—precision is crucial for the pattern’s symmetry.
  • Pay attention to the pattern’s overall flow and alignment, especially if stitching a repeating band or motif.
  • Use shorter lengths of thread to minimize fraying and tangling.

You can use this same technique using cross stitch patterns and simple embroidery stitches. The evenweave fabric ensures your stitches are straight and the same size every time!

Caring for Your Kogin-Zashi Embellished Garment

Because Colonial Persian Wool is virgin wool, we recommend hand washing with a no-rinse soap and drying flat.

Weaving Old and New

Bringing kogin-zashi to your wardrobe is more than embellishing fabric; it’s about honoring a legacy of ingenuity, patience, and artistry. Whether you stitch for mindfulness, fashion, or the thrill of learning, using kogin-zashi for visible mending a garment offers a tangible connection to history and a canvas for your own story.

So, gather your threads, choose a garment, and stitch a little piece of the Tsugaru spirit into every wear. Each pattern, every careful row, is a celebration not only of the past but of the creative present—one stitch at a time.

Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason

Stayin’ Sharp!

Posted on by

There are a vast array of reasons to love rotary cutters. From the easy speed they provide, to the clean edge of the cuts they make, to that smooth slicing sound they make when elegantly gliding through a stack of cotton…yea, that sound… rotary cutters are a crafters best friend. But what if your best friend is no longer fast, clean, or smooth. It’s time for a little intervention.

Just like dull knives in the kitchen, dull tools in your sewing room are a recipe for frustration and accidents. A blunt blade can mean skips, and ragged edges which can result in thread snags and pulls and having to take the time to go back and snip those threads and missed cuts when all we really want to do is sew. In addition, when the blade is dull, we usually compensate by applying more pressure which can lead to hand, wrist, and shoulder pain or injury. And none of us has time for that! The solution? Either out swap the blade (in this economy?!?) or give it a spa day and sharpen it. Yeah. That second one.

While we do keep a stash of spare blades “just in case,” there’s an easy, budget-friendly option: Colonial’s Rotary Blade Sharpener. This magical little tool is like a fairy godparent for your rotary blades—no wand required. Carefully remove your blade, pop it into the sharpener, and give it a few gentle twists. Voilà! The dual grit sides work together to turn back the clock on your blade’s dull days, leaving it sharper, shinier, and ready for action.

The result? Your blades work better, live longer, and stop making you question your crafting life choices. Give it a whirl—you’ll thank yourself, and so will your fabric.

As always, Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason