Tag Archives: hand sewing

Kogin-zashi Bookmark

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Kogin is completely different than anything else we have ever done before. We love learning and exploring new-to-us techniques and styles of making all the things and kogin-zashi was ticking all the boxes. Creating these gorgeous stitch patterns with such a mindful practice is exciting for us and keeps us motivated to create and explore further. We particularly loved applying kogin to some of our own garment designs and to projects that are common fair among sewists and crafters. Kogin adds a next level of richness to these projects and adds to our understanding of textile creation and use.

Kogin-zashi is a type of darned embroidery meaning the stitches lay closely against one another to reinforce and enhance the base fabric the stitches are worked onto. Kogin is a type of counted thread work with a shared DNA evident in other forms of darned embroidery, counted threadwork, pattern darning, and needle weaving from Norway, Yugoslavia, Ukraine, Medieval Middle Eastern counted thread embroidery, and Mamluk pattern darning found in the Middle East and Egypt.

Like other forms of sashiko, kogin-zashi was created by Japanese folx living in cold climates with short growing seasons. Kogin needlework was originally done to reinforce and fortify fabric not as a leisure craft but as a necessity for survival. At the time kogin-zashi was developed (Edo Period, 1603-1867), cotton was a scarce commodity due to the short growing season and the overall cold climate of the Tsugaru region, Aomori, Japan – kogin-zashi’s area of origin. In addition to the scarcity of cotton, it was forbidden for use as a garment fabric by anyone but the ruling class in Japan. This meant folx used fibers derived from plants like ramie, hemp, and tree barks to weave their cloth. Unlike cotton fabric, such fabric does not offer optimal protection from the elements and layering did not provide the needed protection either. Being resourceful, and downright clever, they used kogin stitches made with cotton thread to fill in the gaps in the woven fabric. This created a denser fabric that provided protection and warmth while skirting the strict laws regarding cotton’s use in garment fabric. Fabrics with kogin stitching are complex and dense and contain patterns from geometric borders and lines to intricate key forms and tiled marvels of design. Kogin-zashi fabric is inherently practical but through the lens of time, this practical handwork task has become art and the craft we love today.

Kogin-zashi designs are created by counting the vertical threads of the base fabric and working the needle over and under those threads following the space between the horizontal threads (warp threads) of the base fabric. The stitches are worked into the spaces created by the intersection of the horizontal and vertical threads, filling in the gaps in the woven fabric.

Kogin-zashi was not used to reinforce fabrics by fastening down patches or binding together multiple layers of fabric. Instead, kogin reinforces fabric by weaving thread between the vertical and horizontal threads of loosely woven fabric. The result is a denser fabric that is stronger, more durable, offers greater protection from the elements and, without a doubt, is stunning to behold. Modern kogin-zashi, uses embroidery floss, thread or even fine weight yarns with evenweave fabric such as Congress Cloth, Davosa, or Lugana to create projects.

We discovered kogin-zashi as part of our research for our book Boro & Sashiko: Harmonious Imperfection. We were most excited by the intricate designs created by easy one line at a time stitching. For us, the most exciting part of kogin is how accessible it is as a skill. Regardless of their background as makers and creators, folx can learn the introductory parts of needle handling and pattern reading, almost immediately creating complex graphic designs on fabric. It’s exciting to see the results unfold one line at a time right before your eyes and it motivates you to keep stitching so see that happen. Even if folx have never done hand needlework before, they are going to be able to pick up kogin-zashi and make something right away. The instant gratification factor is big with this craft. For folx who are familiar with handwork and needlework, this is a refreshing change from the norm and we believe they are going to find the same exhilaration and satisfaction we have from this form that is juuuuuuust different enough to be exciting but not so different that is alienating.

For this project, we created a woven knot motif. The pattern was originally released as part of our Maker’s Moments series of workshops on our website at shannonandjason.com. To learn more about kogin-zashi and other forms of sashiko, checkout our books Boro & Sashiko – Harmonious Imperfection and Contemporary Kogin-zashi. Both titles are available on our website at shannonandjason.com or from your favorite local bookseller.

Find the instructions here.

Find the pattern here.

As always, Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason

Glue Basting with Roxanne Glue

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One more product we can’t seem to live without!

Greetings makers, crafters, and creators! Today, we’re diving into another group of Colonial Needle Company products to cover a sticky subject: glue. Specifically, glue basting with the Roxanne Baste-It family of glue.

Glue basting is a technique where you apply a thin line of water-soluble glue along the seam allowance or cut edges of fabric pieces to hold them in place before sewing. This allows for precise piecing, perfect points, and smooth curves. It is especially useful for boro, finishing quilts, and a manner of appliqué – completely removing the need for pins.

How to use Roxanne Basting Glue in Four Easy Steps:

  1. Simply apply a fine line of glue
  2. Line up the fabric pieces
  3. Press with a hot iron to set (this step is not always required–as you will see in our video)
  4. Then sew as usual.

Key points about glue basting:

  • Application:
    Roxanne Baste-It comes in a wide variety of container sizes and shapes to suit any purpose. From the spreadable 2-Way applicator to small pipettes and dab on applicators. And the Roxanne Glue Stick glides on smoooooooooth as silk without gumming up your fabric and needles. You choose which glue is best for your project and where to place it.
  • Heat setting:
    Although not required, a hot dry iron can be used to quickly set the glue and further ensure there is no shifting once the placement decisions have been made. Once set, you can easily sew without worrying about shifting seams or fabrics, even when rough handling of the fabric such as for hand quilting, sashiko, and boro.
  • Portability:
    Baste-It products come in easy to store and access sizes. You can take your handwork projects with you whether you’re traveling across the city or just to your sofa for the evening
  • Basting Glue Benefits:
    Say good-by to pins! Baste-It glues reduce the need for pins and clips, making sewing faster and smoother. Especially hand sewing. No fussing to work around pins and no stuck fingers!

Improves accuracy and precision in piecing, especially for points and curves.

Especially well-suited for appliqué, where you need precise placement of fabric edges.

The Roxanne Glue Stick is our go-to for placing boro patches and visible mending patches prior to sewing down. Watch the boro section of our video for how we create boro inspired fabrics as well as some examples of our work.

Baste-It Glue won’t leave a mark on your delicate creations. All of the Roxanne glues are non-staining and wash away completely with ease!

How we use glue basting for different techniques:

  • Boro and Visible Mending:
    Boro Stitching
    Apply a thin layer of glue to the patch and adhere to base fabric, adjusting your placement as necessary. Then stitch down. We love the Roxanne Glue Stick because it glides on smoothly and the patches stay where we place them…until we decide we want them someplace else. Or… someplace else again. But then they stay put!
  • Quilt Binding and Bias Tape: After sewing on your binding to one side of the quilt, fold the fabric over the edge and apply a layer of glue. Press with a hot, dry iron to set, then hand stitch or machine sew the remaining seam down. No clips or pins needed; you don’t have to worry about that binding shifting. Our video features a no worries technique for making fabric tape with Roxanne Basting Glue.
  • Curved seams: Apply a thin line of glue along the curved edge, carefully folding and shaping the fabric edge.
  • Appliqué: Glue the edges of your appliqué piece to the base fabric, ensuring smooth edges and precise placement. Then use your favorite visible or invisible appliqué stitch for attaching. Be sure to watch the video for our tip for sharp corners on those appliqué pieces.

That’s all for now! Let us know if you want a recommendation for which glue is best for your project or share your favorites with us. And remember to check back for more about our fav products from Colonial Needle Company as well as projects and tutorials that show how we use this all-encompassing line of products in our studio.

Keep up with the Colonial Needle Company on their social media channels and YouTube.

You can find us at shannonandjason.com and on our Instagram and Facebook pages we are @embracethecreativechaos.

Which CNC products do YOU have questions about? Let us know and we might just feature your question in a future video or post.

Until then…STITCH ON!!

Shannon & Jason

Our Favorite Tools: A Peek Into Our Creative Chaos

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And Why We Can’t Live Without Them!

Like most makers, we keep an assortment of tools at hand in the areas of our home where we do most of our work. For us, this is pretty much everywhere. Not even kidding a little bit. If there is a place to sit or perch with good lighting or a good lamp, we’re probably working on a project. Sewing, embroidery, quilting, sashiko, crochet, knitting, and other tools live happily around our spaces: next to the couch, near the sewing machine, above the cutting table, around the photo studio, and even in coat and pant pockets. You never know when you are going to need that one tool that you just can’t do without! Remember that time the good thread snips were in Shannon’s purse in her makeup bag? Just us??

As we do from time to time, we recently went on a reorganize and prioritize bender that lead us to make an assortment of small fabric boxes to keep all of our making things a bit more tidy and assure that we can always find that tool we need. We thought it would be fun to show you what it is that we keep on hand. For this particular video (found here), Jason has taken the opportunity to invade Shannon’s peaceful morning of “snow day” stitching with his camera.

Here’s what he found in Shannon’s stash:

  • Needles of various lengths and diameters. (DUH!) Like we said before, we do a lot of hand stitching, so we need needles that will do the required job. Smaller hand sewing needles like the John James Signature Collection Sharps or Betweens in a couple of sizes for fine sewing. John James long darners are always easily within reach for quilting, mending, and sashiko. They’re easy to find and stay safe and secure in the vials they come in. Also, the John James Craft Needle Collection will usually have one or two needles that will do the job we need done.
  • Snips and scissors for cutting thread and yarn… these are a must for any sewist. We don’t use pins too often, but clips are handy to have in case you need an extra finger or two to hold something.
  • Thimbles… yeah, lots of thimbles. We know, we can hear you saying, “why would you need more than one thimble?” Here’s why: Each thimble does a specific job that it is best suited for. Sashiko requires a palm thimble for speed and needle movement. For our hand quilting—big stitch or small stitch—we use the Colonial Needle Thimble Crown and Thimble Dimple. The Thimble Crown sits tightly on our main sewing hand, pushing the needle through the fabric while the Thimble Dimple attaches to the hand we use under the fabric to push the needle back to the surface. So instead of pricking our fingertips constantly or awkwardly using a spoon, we keep our dexterity. These two adhesive thimbles can be found in one pack along with the Thimble Pad and Needle Grip-Its: Item SM420.
  • Because we are always looking for one — and can never seem to find it when we need it— we keep an Easy-store Tape Measure in the box as well… now we just need to remember to put it back once we are done using it!
  • The last thing we keep close is a Roxanne Glue Stick. This is especially handy for boro textiles and patchwork mending but Shannon also has one in the mending kit in her purse for emergency repairs.

These are the main characters in action with us. Take a look to your left and right. What tools do you keep handy? Let us know!

Stitch On,

Shannon & Jason

Nifty Notions for Wonky Hands

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How I do love working with my hands; sewing, rug hooking, planting seeds, and pulling weeds! I have information for you about some nifty notions and tips that can be helpful for hand sewers, whether newbies or experienced, and those in between.

Raise your dominant hand if you use a thimble!

Now, raise your other hand if you gave up hand sewing because your hands and fingers are painful whenever you hand stitch…

Perhaps you have never used a thimble, and your fingers are sore from jabs. Do I have two wonderful adaptive notions and tips for using them to help you enjoy hand sewing!! My hands and fingers are “wonky” from years of stitching and pulling a needle through fabric and pushing downward with a thimble. Check out the photo below for a definition of wonky hands.

Wonky hands eager to push a needle with a Palm Thimble

Yes, they are mine, and they are not a pretty site. However, I can now enjoy hand sewing until the cows come home and the chickens lay eggs thanks to a couple of great Colonial Needle products I am eager to share with you!

Nifty Notion #1: Needle Grip-Its

How I wish I had known about these wonderful little sticky dots years ago, before my hands and fingers began to hurt and look a little lopsey. The repetitive motion of inserting a needle into fabric and pulling the needle out on the other side can cause pain and discomfort over time. There are a couple helpful tips for applying these small adhesive circles:

Needle Grip-It adhered to tip of needle pulling fore finger. Next, adhere one to the thumb to help grip and pull your needle.
  • On your needle-holding hand, pretend you are gripping a needle with your forefinger and thumb. Now separate them and notice a round circle on the tips of your forefinger and thumb. Then, place an adhesive Needle Grip-It dot on each slightly indented round circle on your fingertip and thumb tip.
    • Press your forefinger and thumb together, and now you are ready to insert the needle into the fabric, pull the needle out, and enjoy hand stitching. The grips are not sticky to your needle, and are most unobtrusive while stitching. They will also stay on through several hand washings if you are fortunate enough to sit and stitch until your cows come home and chickens lay eggs!
    • I highly recommend using Needle Grip-Its if you are a newbie, a beginning hand stitcher as well as if you have been hand sewing for years, but decided to give it up due to pain in your hands. I happily carry sheets of extra Needle Grip-Its with me to share with friends. They are a Nifty Notion that keep giving and giving lots of joy when hand sewing.

Nifty Notion #2: Colonial Palm Thimble

Yes, when I first saw this thimble, I wondered just how helpful it would and could be, as it looks a little awkward. However, I am so happy that I tried it out! I also highly recommend it for those who are newbies to hand sewing, in-betweeners who have been hand sewing for a while, life-time hand sewers, and those who flat out refuse to try using a thimble!! Those of you who have callouses on your needle pushing fingers will thank me for it as well. Here are some tips after you apply Needle Grip-it:

  • The metal band is adjustable for any and size or finger.
    • The large metal disc with dimples comfortably fits in the palm of your hand and easily helps guide the push of your needle.
      • Push with the palm of your hand. That larger hand motion to the side is better for your hands, especially over time. I experience no hand fatigue or pain. It is rather like catching a volley ball is much easier than catching a ping pong ball.

Nifty Notion #3: Lap pillow and small sharp pointy scissors

Unless I am quilting on a floor frame or a lap frame, I place a pillow on my lap to rest my arms and assist in directing my stitching as well as cutting threads. I accidentally cut a little hole in one of my mother’s quilts on a floor frame, and also recommend using small scissors with very sharp points for cutting threads. Cutting threads with the sharp tips of small scissors help prevent accidental snips and feeling so badly.

I hope to continue stitching ALAP: As Long As Possible! These wonderful nifty notions are small but sometimes small things can make a big difference. I also recommend them for all ages and stages of hand stitchers. Perhaps my hands would not be a wonky today if I had Needle Grip-Its and a Palm Thimble when I began hand sewing on a dishtowel at age three, under the loving wings of my dear grandma. My first memory of using a thimble was awkward, but pushing a needle without one was painful and my fingers were pricked and sore which limited the fun of sewing that I enjoyed. Whenever I hear a friend say she or he no longer hand sews because of painful fingers and hands, I happily pass along Nifty Notions and Tips for being able to return to the joy of hand sewing until you see the cows or collect the eggs.

Happy hand sewing, on and on and on,

Judy Moore Pullen

DIY Fabric Cards

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Fabric cards are the perfect way to add a little OMPH to your gift giving and they show that you really do care enough to send something handmade…even if you don’t have a lot of spare time or the extra brain capacity for a larger project. Easy to customize to any size for any occasion (maybe a certain winter holiday that is coming up?), fabric cards show you went that extra mile and put thought and effort into the gift-giving experience. They make that special person receiving the card feel seen and appreciated. Fabric cards have a distinctive handmade quality that is hard to replicate with mass-produced, store-bought cards and it is this uniqueness that adds charm and character to your gift.

They are super easy to make! Fabric scraps are pretty inexpensive and if you are already a sewist or know someone who is, you might already have the materials you need to create your own mini textile masterpiece. Add some quilting or embroidery and your creation really goes to the next level. You can hand stitch, applique, or machine embroider each one for a one-of-a-kind product. We used Finca Metallic Thread to hand embroider our fabric cards. Send yours as postcards, framed miniature textile art, gift tags, or leave one side open to insert a gift card. However you use them, if you are like us, you will end up making several *ahem* extra which is a good thing because you never know when you will need a little piece of handmade excellence to add to your gifting.

Here is how we make ours.

Supplies:

  • Fusible interfacing or stabilizer
  • Fabric scraps (1–2”wide and long enough to cover your card)
  • Finca Metallic Thread – 1 Ply for machine embroidery, 2 Ply for hand stitching.
  • Crewel Needle–Large eye and sharp tip make easy work of the layers
  • Sewing machine with all-purpose thread and jeans needle or embroidery needle
  • Roxanne Glue–Glue Stick or Dip & Dab XL Tube
  • Cover Stock Paper or similar for backing (we like Kraft-Tex for sturdy projects)
    Note: You can use cotton fabric for the backing too. The end result is not as“cardlike”.
  • Scissors or rotary cutter

Cuts:

Cut stabilizer/interfacing to your desired size – Standard post card size is 4”x6” but you can make your cards any size you like
Cut paper backing to the same size as stabilizer

Instructions:

  1. Place strips of fabric on the stabilizer deciding on placement, color, texture, ect.
  2. Remove your chosen strips and place the center strip face up on the stabilizer. We like using diagonal lines, so our first strip covers from the top left corner to the bottom right. You do you though…
  3. Place an adjacent strip on top of the first one with Right sides facing. Sew the seam using a 1/4’’ to 3/8’’ seam allowance. Make sure the fabric covers past the edge.
  4. Press the seam open being careful to watch if your stabilizer has a fusible backing (you can also finger press the seam open as well).
  5. Continue in this manner sewing strips on one at a time moving in one direction.
  6. Once you have covered the first half, turn your card and repeat the process goingf rom the center to the opposite corner.
  7. Once the stabilizer is completely covered turn Right side down and trim off the excessfabric.
  8. Secure the last 2 corners using a glue stick or Roxanne Dip & Dab XL Tube
  9. Add embroidery to your card by hand or machine.
    a. If embroidering by hand use Finca 2-Ply Metallic Thread held double.
    b. If machine embroidering use Finca 1-Ply Metallic Thread as your top thread and all-purpose thread in the bobbin.
  10. Once embroidery is complete apply the paper back to the card.
    a. If your stabilizer has a fusible back you can use an iron to secure otherwise glue the card to the back
    b. If you are using the fabric card as a gift card holder skip this step.
  11. Machine or hand sew a zig-zag or edging stitch around the card to secure the edge.
    a. We specifically like using fabric cards as holders for gift cards…just leave one side open so you can slide the card inside the pocket
    b. If you want to use a satin stitch along the edge, use a fabric backing instead of paper. The punching of the needle that many times will perforate the backing causing it to tear off easily.

Optional: Use a hole punch in one corner of the finished card and thread it with sparkly thread oryarn as a beautiful gift tag.

Gift cards like this can be mailed using standard postage…you’ll need to weigh the item to ensure you have enough postage attached to it. They do tend to get dirty in the mail so we opt for mailing them in an envelope.

For a video tutorial visit our YouTube page here.

We hope you decide to make a few fabric cards this season for your loved ones…let us know how you like them!

Shannon & Jason

A [Thimble] Crown Fit for a Queen!

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Hey folx! Shannon and Jason checking in.

Back in February, we had the pleasure of meeting the Colonial Needle Company team at Sew Expo. We chatted about reviewing their products and made it crystal clear—we’re all about honesty, no punches pulled so if we like a product, we will shout it from the rooftops and use it.

On the bustling Sew Expo show floor, they handed us packs of needles, various sewing tools, and what looked like tiny metal disks with dimples and sticky tabs. We’re all about toys for the sewing studio, but our first thought about those metal disks? “Okayyyy, not sure how this will play out, but let’s give it a whirl.”

Fast forward to May, and Jason, with his big mitts (no offense, J!), was tearing up the house looking for a thimble for sewing a label onto a quilt. Most thimbles on the market aren’t built for his large fingers. Then, lightbulb moment—we remembered those Thimble Crowns from Colonial Needle. We pulled them out of the box, applied the sticky dot, slapped one on Jason’s finger, and off he stitched. It was anyone’s guess how it would turn out.

So, real talk. For a long time, we have joked about starting a blog titled “That’s the dumbest thing I’ve ever seen… and now I can’t live without it.” If that blog existed, the Thimble Crown would be a star. Seriously, what a game changer!

Fit like a glove—err, crown—boosted his nimbleness and let him crank out even finer stitches (and trust us, his stitches were already A+). It upped his needle game, gave him more comfort, and let him tweak its position to suit his sewing style.

Shannon quickly jumped on board using the dimpled crowns for embroidery, quilting, and general hand sewing as well as EPP. See, Shannon has nails, she will not sacrifice her manicure to a full covering thimble. These little wonders were the PERFECT solution for her manicured fingers because they stay in place without interfering with the nails. Also, she tends to stitch using the side of her finger to push the needle and this little Crown Thimble stayed securely in place even on the inside edge of her middle finger. You can imagine this was an amazing little tool for rocker stitch quilting. Yup… she’s sold on them now too. Completely.

Both of us tested the Thimble Crowns on our middle fingers, knuckles—heck, even our palms for lighter sashiko stitching. It’s ace for most of our hand stitching gigs: basic sewing, embroidery, quilting, mending, you name it. Honestly, not sure how we coped without one all these years.

Colonial Needle offers a range of these thimble tips for different sewing jobs. Check ’em out and give ’em a whirl. Next up for us? We’re trying the Under Thimble and Thimble Dimple for some hand quilting. We’ll keep you posted!

Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason