The Needle That Saved Our Quilt (And Our Sanity)

We almost left a needle permanently inside a quilt. No, it was not as a design choice for some strange mixed media piece. A side-threading easy needle had snagged on the batting inside the quilt layers during the tail-burying process, and no amount of gentle coaxing, creative angling, or colorful language was going to free it. We were this close to declaring it a permanent resident of that quilt and moving on with our lives. In addition, over the course of that one quilt, we broke six needles out of a pack of side-threading needles. It turns out that molding that swirl into the side of a needle results in a thin piece of metal that will, indeed, snap off without too much effort.

Jason had been researching top-loading easy thread needles in the background—because of course he had—and that was the moment we stopped debating and started acting. We called our local fabric store to make sure they had them in stock, jumped in the car, drove down the hill, and came home with a pack of John James top-loading easy thread needles.

That was during the making of our book Scrappy Wonky Quilt Block Extravaganza. This many years later, they are the only easy thread needles in our studio. We now work with Colonial Needle Company and can speak with absolute authority: these needles are the real deal.

The Problem With Side-Threading Needles

If you’ve tried easy threading needles before and given up on them, we’d bet good money you were using side-loading versions.

Side-threading needles have a slot on the side of the needle shaft. The thread snaps in from the side rather than being passed through a traditional eye. In theory: brilliant. In practice: the open slot catches on fabric fibers as you pull the needle through, creating snags, pulls, and—if you’re working through quilt layers—a needle that grabs the batting like velcro and refuses to let go. And just forget using the shaft of your needle to tie a knot… We know this from experience. Painful, frustrating, knotted thread, nearly-left-a-needle-in-a-quilt experience.

Why Top-Loading Changes Everything

The John James top-loading easy thread needle has a channel at the top of the needle rather than a slot on the side. You press the thread down into the channel from above, and the needle is threaded. No more squinting at a tiny eye. No more licking the thread end and hoping for the best.

But here’s the crucial difference: the channel is enclosed as the needle passes through fabric. There’s nothing exposed to catch on fibers, snag delicate fabric, or grab batting mid-burial. The needle moves through your layers cleanly, exactly the way it should.

The Real Hero Feature: Burying Thread Tails

Let’s talk about what these needles were actually born to do, because this is where they earn their place as the only easy thread needle in our studio.

Finishing a quilt means burying thread tails. All of them. Every single starting and stopping point from every line of quilting stitching gets a tail, and every one of those tails needs to be buried between the quilt layers so it disappears completely into the finished piece.

On a complex quilt? We’re easily talking hundreds of tails; possibly more.

Threading each of those tails through a traditional needle is maddening. It’s the part of finishing a quilt that can genuinely dampen your enthusiasm for a project you’ve spent months loving. Your eyes are tired. The threads are short. The needle is small. And you have approximately four hundred more to go.

Top-loading easy thread needles make this process not just bearable—they make it actually enjoyable. Pop the tail into the channel, bury it between the layers, pull it through, trim.

Pop, bury, pull, trim. You develop a rhythm. The stack of buried tails grows. The project gets closer to finished.

How to Bury a Thread Tail With an Easy Thread Needle

Here’s the basic process. For the full step-by-step tutorial, watch the YouTube video linked below.

What you need:

  • John James top-loading easy thread needle
  • Your quilt with thread tails to bury
  • Small scissors

The process:

  1. Guide the thread tail into the top-loading channel to thread the needle
  2. Bring the top thread to the back of the quilt.
  3. Make the knot of your choice about ¼” from the base then insert the needle tip into the quilt layers at the point where the tail exits the fabric
  4. Run the needle between the fabric layers and back out again about an inch or two away from  there you inserted it.
  5. Gently pull the needle and thread tail through being sure to pull the knot to the inside of the layers.
  6. Pull the needle and thread a little more and trim the tail close to the fabric surface.
  7. Smooth the fabric and the tail disappears into the layers

The thread tail vanishes. No knot on the back. No visible evidence it was ever there. Just a clean, professional finish.

The “Also Starring” Features

Winning at Thread Chicken

Thread chicken: the act of absolutely believing—with your whole heart—that you can squeeze just a few more stitches out of that rapidly shortening thread length if you simply believe hard enough.

Wishcraft is wonderful. Tinker Bell told us so. But clapping your hands and believing is not going to make that thread reach the end of the line.

When thread chicken claims another victim and you end up with a tail so short it’s practically a suggestion, the top-loading channel is your secret weapon. Easy thread needles need just enough tail to catch in the top-loading channel, bury, and disappear.

The Broken Thread Mid-Quilt

We have all experienced the heartbreak of a mid-line thread break. Whether the thread tension was off and the break happens in the middle of quilting or the quilting thread on a well-loved quilt gives way and snaps, sometimes it just happens. Mid-project, mid-layer, mid-everything, and suddenly you have a short tail that needs to be dealt with. Normally, we would have to take out enough stitches to have a thread tail that could be pulled through the eye of a regular needle. But, with easy thread needles, all we need to do is take out enough stitches to catch in the top-thread channel. To use the least amount of thread possible, partially insert the needle into the fabric first to shorten the distance from the quilt surface to the thread, guide the short tail into the channel, and pull it through to bury it. Repeat on the other side of the break and then you can machine or hand stitch the gap in the line of stitching so it looks like nothing ever happened. Problem solved without drama.

Threading in Low Light (Or When Your Bifocals Aren’t Cooperating)

We’re just going to say it: threading a traditional needle when your eyes are tired, the light is low, or your bifocals just aren’t focal-ing as well as they used to is an exercise in frustration that nobody needs.

Top-loading easy thread needles require zero precision threading. Guide the thread into the channel until you feel that “pop” that tells you the thread is secured. Done. Your eyes will thank you.

The Bottom Line

We went from nearly leaving a needle permanently inside a quilt to genuinely enjoying the tail-burying process. That’s not a small thing. Finishing a quilt should feel like a celebration, not a chore.

John James top-loading easy thread needles are the only easy thread needles in our studio now. They thread fast, move cleanly through fabric and batting, and make the most tedious part of quilt finishing actually satisfying.

Bonus: Our easy thread needles origin story revolved around quilting but Colonial Needle Company has easy thread needles in a variety of sizes from cross-stitch to sharps. From cross-stitch to fine detail embroidery, hand sewing to quilting, we’ve been able to find an easy thread needle that does the job beautifully.

If you’ve given up on easy thread needles before, we understand. Try the top-loading version. It’s different. It’s better. And it won’t get stuck in your batting and you can keep stitching for longer even when your bifocals aren’t cooperating.

 Shop John James Easy Thread Needles here.

Watch the full tail-burying tutorial on YouTube for the complete step-by-step demonstration.

Are you a thread chicken survivor? Tell us your most dramatic close call in the comments— we want to hear them all.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Portable Projects & On-the-Go Stitching

Summer is the perfect season to take your stitching beyond the sewing room. Whether you’re relaxing on the porch, traveling to a retreat, waiting at the airport, or enjoying a quiet afternoon by the lake, portable projects make it easy to fit creativity into life’s little moments.

But stitching away from home comes with its own challenges. Limited space, changing lighting, and carrying only the essentials mean that every tool in your project bag needs to earn its place.

The good news? A thoughtfully packed stitching kit—and the right needles—can help you stitch comfortably wherever your summer takes you.


The Stitching Scenario

Portable hand stitching

Portable projects often include:

  • English Paper Piecing (EPP)
  • Cross stitch
  • Needlepoint
  • Embroidery
  • Wool appliqué
  • Hand quilting
  • Slow stitching
  • Small mending projects

These projects are ideal for travel because they’re compact, relaxing, and easy to pick up whenever you have a few spare minutes.


The Common Challenges

When stitching on the go, you may encounter:

  • Forgetting the needle you need
  • Carrying too many supplies
  • Lost or damaged needles
  • Poor lighting
  • Limited workspace
  • Thread tangles inside your project bag

A little planning can make stitching away from home just as enjoyable as stitching in your favorite chair.


Why the Right Tool Matters

When you’re packing light, versatility becomes just as important as performance.

Instead of carrying every needle you own, consider choosing a small assortment that covers the projects you’ll actually be working on.

Think about:

Needle Type

Will your project call for a tapestry, chenille, embroidery (crewel), or sharps needle?

Needle Size

Packing a few sizes gives you flexibility if you switch projects or thread weights.

Storage

Keeping needles organized protects both your supplies and your fingers.

A compact needle case makes it easy to find exactly what you need—without digging through your project bag.


Our Recommendation: Building a Travel Needle Kit

Rather than packing dozens of needles, consider carrying a small assortment that handles most portable projects.

A well-rounded travel kit might include:

Tapestry Needles found here
Perfect for:

  • Cross stitch
  • Needlepoint
  • Counted embroidery
tapestry needles

Chenille Needles like these.
Ideal for:

  • Linen cross stitch
  • Evenweave
  • Ribbon embroidery
  • Specialty stitches
chenille needles

Embroidery (Crewel) Needles linked here.
A versatile choice for:

  • Surface embroidery
  • Wool appliqué
  • Decorative stitching
crewel embroidery

Sharps – a staple – found here.
Excellent for:

  • Hand sewing
  • Mending
  • English Paper Piecing
  • General repairs

Having a small variety means you’re ready for nearly any stitching opportunity that comes your way.


Pro Tip: Pack for the Project You Might Stitch

Many stitchers pack for the project they’re working on today—but vacations and retreats often inspire us to start something new.

Including one or two extra needle types takes very little space and gives you the flexibility to switch techniques if inspiration strikes.


Special Considerations for Travel

Whether you’re flying across the country or spending the afternoon at your local park, organization makes all the difference.

A few travel-friendly habits:

✔ Store needles securely in a compact case
✔ Bring pre-cut thread lengths
✔ Include a needle threader if needed
✔ Keep a small magnetic holder nearby to prevent lost needles

The less time spent searching for supplies, the more time you can spend stitching.


Reader Takeaway

For your next portable stitching project:

✔ Pack only the needles you’ll realistically use
✔ Include a variety of needle types
✔ Keep them organized in a protective case
✔ Plan for flexibility—not perfection

Sometimes the best stitching happens in the unexpected moments.


Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore the long, elegant needles designed specifically for Sashiko and Japanese running stitch—and why they create such beautiful rhythm.

Until then, safe travels, happy stitching, and don’t forget to tag us when you pack supplies for your favorite project!

Buttonhole Stitch: The Functional Stitch That Does More Than Finish Buttonholes

The buttonhole stitch is one of those classic hand-sewing techniques that beautifully balances form and function. While its name suggests it’s only used for buttonholes, this versatile stitch has long been valued for its durability, decorative potential, and ability to create clean, finished edges.

Whether you’re sewing garments, embellishing embroidery projects, or exploring heirloom techniques, the buttonhole stitch is a skill worth mastering.


What Is a Buttonhole Stitch?

The buttonhole stitch is a looped edge stitch designed to reinforce cut edges and prevent fraying. Each stitch forms a small knot along the edge of the fabric, creating a sturdy finish that stands up to repeated use.

Steps for Buttonhole Stitch

Although it shares similarities with the blanket stitch, the buttonhole stitch is worked more closely together and features a distinct knotted edge that offers additional strength.

When & How It’s Used

The buttonhole stitch is ideal for both practical sewing and decorative embroidery.

It’s best for:

  • Hand-worked buttonholes
  • Reinforcing fabric edges
  • Heirloom sewing projects
  • Wool appliqué
  • Decorative borders
  • Finishing felt ornaments and accessories

Because of its strength, it’s especially useful anywhere a finished edge will experience wear and tear.


What You’ll Need

Pro Tip: For traditional buttonholes, use a strong sewing thread. For decorative applications, embroidery floss creates a beautiful finish.


How to Sew a Buttonhole Stitch

  1. Step 1: Mark Your Edge – Identify the edge you’ll be stitching along. If making a buttonhole, carefully cut the opening first.
  2. Step 2: Bring the Needle Up – Bring the needle up from the back of the fabric near the edge.
  3. Step 3: Form the Loop – Insert the needle from front to back a short distance away, leaving the working thread beneath the needle tip.
  4. Step 4: Pull Through – Pull the thread snugly so the loop forms a small knot against the fabric edge.
  5. Step 5: Continue Along the Edge – Repeat the process, spacing stitches evenly and keeping the knot aligned along the edge.
  6. Step 6: Secure the Thread – Finish with a small knot on the back of the fabric.

Tips for Beautiful Buttonhole Stitches

  • Keep stitch spacing consistent
  • Pull loops snugly, but not tightly
  • Use smaller stitches on curves
  • Practice on felt before working on garments
  • Match thread weight to your project

Common Projects Using Buttonhole Stitch

Try the buttonhole stitch on:

  • Handmade garments
  • Felt ornaments
  • Wool appliqué projects
  • Decorative samplers
  • Memory bears and soft toys
  • Heirloom linens

This timeless stitch offers a wonderful blend of beauty and practicality.


Next Month:
We’ll revisit an old favorite with a fresh perspective as we explore Running Stitch for Visible Mending and Sashiko-Inspired Designs.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Cross Stitch on Linen & Evenweave

Cross stitch on linen and evenweave has a look all its own—soft texture, delicate detail, and beautifully defined stitches. But these fabrics behave differently than standard Aida cloth, and the needle you choose can dramatically affect both your stitching experience and your finished results.

If your thread twists, your fabric holes seem difficult to find, or your stitches feel bulky or uneven, your needle may be working against you instead of with you.

Let’s explore how the right needle supports smoother, more precise stitching on linen and evenweave fabrics.


The Stitching Scenario

Cross stitch on linen & evenweave

These fabrics are favorites for:

  • Heirloom samplers
  • Detailed counted cross stitch
  • Specialty stitches
  • Fine monogramming
  • Elegant finishing projects

Unlike Aida, linen and evenweave require stitching “over two” fabric threads, making precision and visibility especially important.


The Common Challenges

When stitching on linen or evenweave, stitchers often notice:

  • Difficulty seeing fabric holes
  • Twisted or worn thread
  • Uneven stitch tension
  • Splitting fabric threads accidentally
  • Eye strain or hand fatigue during detailed work

These fabrics reward precision—but they also require the right tool for the job.


Why the Right Tool Matters

Several needle characteristics improve stitching on linen and evenweave:

Point Style

This is where personal preference often comes into play.

Many stitchers use blunt tapestry needles because they slide between fabric threads without piercing the weave. They’re especially helpful for maintaining fabric structure and preventing thread splitting.

However, many experienced linen stitchers prefer chenille needles for cross stitch on linen and evenweave. Because chenille needles have a sharp point paired with a large eye, they allow for more precise hole placement—especially on higher-count fabrics or natural linens where holes can be harder to see.

The best choice often depends on:

  • fabric count
  • lighting and visibility
  • stitching style
  • personal comfort

Eye Size

The eye should comfortably accommodate your floss without causing fraying or drag.

Needle Size

A finer needle works better on higher-count fabrics because it passes easily through smaller openings without enlarging holes.

Needle Length

Comfort matters—some stitchers prefer shorter needles for control, while others like slightly longer needles for rhythm and grip.

The goal is smooth movement through the fabric with minimal resistance.


Our Recommendation: Needles for Cross Stitch on Linen & Evenweave

Tapestry Needles – Sizes 24–28

A classic choice for counted cross stitch. Their blunt point glides between fabric threads, helping preserve the weave and reduce accidental splitting.

These are especially popular for:

  • standard cross stitch,
  • lower-count fabrics,
  • and stitchers who prefer a softer feel against the fabric.

Chenille Needles – Sizes 24–28

A favorite among many linen stitchers, chenille needles combine:

  • a sharp point,
  • a long eye,
  • and easy threading.

The sharp tip allows for more precise hole placement, which can be especially helpful on:

  • high-count linen,
  • uneven natural fibers,
  • specialty stitches,
  • or projects stitched “over two.”

Many stitchers find chenille needles easier to control when fabric holes are less visually defined.


Pro Tip: Try Both

If you’ve only ever stitched linen with tapestry needles, try a chenille needle on your next project—or vice versa.

Some stitchers love the glide of a tapestry needle, while others prefer the precision of a sharp chenille point. Small differences in point style can dramatically change how comfortable and accurate stitching feels.

There’s no universal “best” needle—only the one that works best for you and your fabric.


Special Considerations for Higher-Count Fabrics

As fabric count increases:

  • Needle size generally decreases
  • Smaller eyes reduce bulk
  • Finer needles help maintain fabric structure

Using a needle that’s too large can distort stitches and widen holes over time.


Reader Takeaway: Quick Checklist

When stitching on linen or evenweave:

✔ Point depends on preference, but try a blunt tapestry needle or sharp chenille when starting a new project
✔ Match needle size to fabric count
✔ Use finer needles for higher-count fabrics
✔ Avoid forcing the needle through the weave

Small adjustments create cleaner, more even stitches.


Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for portable summer stitching and travel projects—because great stitching should go wherever you do.

Until then, enjoy the rhythm and precision that linen and evenweave bring to every stitch.

Long & Short Stitch: The Secret to Smooth Shading in Embroidery

If April was all about texture and dimension, May is about softness, shading, and color blending.

The Long & Short Stitch is a classic embroidery technique used to create smooth transitions between colors and realistic, painterly effects in thread. From flower petals to animal fur, this stitch helps embroidery designs come to life with depth and movement.

While it may look advanced, learning the basics of long & short stitch opens the door to a whole new style of embroidery.


What Is Long & Short Stitch?

The long & short stitch is a filling stitch made by alternating stitches of different lengths. By layering rows of slightly uneven stitches and blending thread colors together, embroiderers can create gradual shading and soft transitions.

Rather than creating a perfectly uniform fill, the irregular stitch lengths help colors merge naturally — much like brushstrokes in painting.

When & How It’s Used

This stitch is ideal whenever you want embroidery to feel soft, dimensional, or realistic.

It’s best for:

  • Floral petals and leaves
  • Realistic embroidery designs
  • Shading and color blending
  • Animal fur or feathers
  • Filled embroidery motifs

It’s one of the foundational stitches used in thread painting and advanced embroidery techniques.


What You’ll Need

Pro Tip: Choose thread colors that are close in tone for smoother blending.


How to Sew the Long & Short Stitch

  1. Step 1: Outline Your Shape – Transfer your design onto fabric and secure it in an embroidery hoop.
  2. Step 2: Start the First Row – Work a row of alternating long and short stitches along the edge of your shape.
  3. Step 3: Add the Next Color – Begin the second row by stitching into the first row, overlapping slightly to blend the colors.
  4. Step 4: Continue Layering – Repeat with additional rows, varying stitch length naturally as you fill the shape.
  5. Step 5: Blend as You Go – Mix shades gradually to create soft transitions and depth.

Tips for Smooth Shading

  • Avoid making stitches too uniform
  • Use thread shades that blend naturally together
  • Keep stitches flowing in the direction of the shape
  • Shorter stitches work well around curves
  • Don’t rush — blending takes patience

The beauty of long & short stitch comes from its organic look, so perfection isn’t the goal.


Common Projects Using Long & Short Stitch

Long & short stitch is perfect for embroidery designs with movement and shading.

Try it for:

  • Floral embroidery
  • Botanical designs
  • Birds and animals
  • Monograms with shading
  • Thread painting projects

It’s a wonderful stitch for adding artistry and realism to your embroidery.


Next Month:
We’ll switch from soft shading to strong structure with the practical and versatile Buttonhole Stitch.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Hand Quilting & Big Stitch Quilting

As spring settles in, quilting projects often come back into focus. Whether you’re finishing a winter quilt or starting something new, hand quilting offers a rhythm that’s both productive and calming.

From traditional, fine hand quilting to the bold, modern look of big stitch quilting, the tools you choose can dramatically shape both your experience and your results.

If your stitches feel inconsistent, your needle is difficult to control, or your hands tire quickly, the issue may not be your technique—it may be your needle.

Let’s explore how the right needle supports both traditional and big stitch quilting.


The Stitching Scenario

Hand quilting & big stitch quilting

This includes:

  • Traditional hand quilting with small, even stitches
  • Big stitch quilting using thicker thread
  • Quilting through layered cotton, batting, and backing
  • Finishing quilt edges or adding decorative quilting

These techniques require stitching through multiple layers, which makes needle choice especially important.


The Common Challenges

When hand quilting, stitchers often experience:

  • Difficulty rocking the needle through layers
  • Uneven stitch size
  • Needle bending or breaking
  • Hand fatigue or finger strain
  • Trouble maintaining a smooth stitching rhythm

Layered fabrics and batting create resistance, so the needle must be both strong and responsive.


Why the Right Tool Matters

For quilting, a few key needle characteristics make all the difference:

  • Length & Flexibility
    Shorter needles are easier to rock in a quilting motion, while slightly flexible needles help create even stitches.
  • Shaft Strength
    The needle must be strong enough to pass through multiple layers without bending.
  • Eye Size
    A small eye works well for fine quilting thread, while a larger eye is necessary for thicker threads used in big stitch quilting.
  • Point Style
    A sharp point helps penetrate layers cleanly, reducing strain on your hands.

Choosing the right combination allows for smoother stitching and better control.


Our Recommendation: Needles for Hand Quilting

  • Betweens (Quilting Needles) – Sizes 8–10
    These short, slightly stiff needles are designed specifically for traditional hand quilting. Their length makes it easier to rock the needle and create small, even stitches.
  • Sharps – Sizes 7–9
    A versatile option for quilters who prefer a slightly longer needle or need more reach through thicker layers.
    sharps needles

Our Recommendation: Needles for Big Stitch Quilting

  • Embroidery (Crewel) Needles – Sizes 5–7
    With a longer eye, these are ideal for accommodating thicker threads like perle cotton while maintaining a sharp point for easy stitching.
    crewel embroidery
  • Longer Sharps – Sizes 5–7
    Helpful for creating longer, more visible stitches with a smooth, steady rhythm.
    sharps needles

Pro Tip: Find Your Rhythm

Hand quilting is as much about rhythm as technique.

  • Load several stitches onto your needle at once (the “rocking” method)
  • Keep your grip relaxed
  • Let the needle do the work

If stitching feels forced, try a different needle size or length—comfort and consistency go hand in hand.


Special Considerations for Batting & Layers

Different batting types affect how your needle performs:

  • Cotton batting offers more resistance and may require a stronger needle
  • Poly or blends are easier to pass through but still benefit from a sharp point

If you feel resistance, don’t force the needle—adjust your tool instead.


Reader Takeaway: Quick Checklist

When hand quilting:

✔ Choose short needles (betweens) for fine stitches
✔ Use longer needles for big stitch quilting
✔ Match eye size to your thread thickness
✔ Let the needle move smoothly through layers—don’t force it

The right needle helps you stitch with ease and consistency.


Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for cross stitch on linen and evenweave—where precision and fabric awareness are key.

Until then, enjoy the rhythm of stitching and the satisfaction of bringing your quilt to life, one stitch at a time.

Happy Stitching!