Sashiko & Boro Coasters – From Scrap Pile to Gifts

The gift-giving season sneaks up fast. One minute you’re enjoying the last cozy days of fall, the next you’re scrolling madly through websites and scrambling wildly through crowded stores looking for presents that don’t feel like they came from a cold, impersonal assembly line. Really? Does anyone deserve yet another pair of taco covered socks that seemed hilarious online at 1am or a scented candle that smells of mystery musk?

Here’s the good news: You’re a maker. Which means you probably already have everything you need to make a heartfelt but useful gift already sitting in your craft nook.

We present the sashiko & boro coasters! This isn’t just another project. These are little squares of stitched-up sustainability that are equal parts practical and beautiful. These coasters combine two iconic Japanese textile traditions (boro and sashiko) with fabric scraps that might otherwise go sit languishing in a box or *gasp* be thrown away. The result? Handmade gifts that protect your furniture, start conversations, and prove that “leftover” fabric is just fabric that’s waiting for its moment to shine.

What makes these coasters such a perfect gift? We’re glad you asked!

There’s something satisfying about making gifts that people will actually use. Coasters certainly check that box, but these aren’t your basic squares of cork from the discount bin at the local big box store. The thoughtful mending aesthetic of boro patchwork paired with the rhythmic, careful stitching of sashiko creates texture, color, and character. Each one is unique because, well… every scrap is unique. No two coasters are going to look exactly the same.

A Quick History Lesson (We Promise It’s Interesting)

Boro and sashiko are certainly experiencing a revival over the past several years, but they weren’t always the trendy, fashionable techniques they are today. Boro and sashiko were born from necessity in rural Japan where fabric was precious and throwing anything away was unthinkable. Boro refers to the patchwork mending of textiles where a person layers scraps to reinforce worn or torn areas and extend the life of garments and household items. Sashiko, with its distinctive running stitch, served both to strengthen fabric and to hold patches in place. You can have sashiko without boro, but you can’t have boro with sashiko.

Over time, what started as a necessity evolved into the art form and craft we know today. The stitches are decorative, the patterns are intentional, and the philosophy behind them of honoring materials, embracing imperfection, and celebrating repair over replacement resonates across cultures. Today, when we stitch boro patches with sashiko thread, we’re tapping into that same spirit of resourcefulness and sustainability.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Materials:

  • 1 fat quarter of Cherrywood Hand Dyed Fabric (or any quilting cotton) for tops and bottoms. We also like using denim for the backing fabric for an even more durable coaster. Really whatever you have on hand that can stand up to repeated use is great.
  • Fabric scraps for boro patches – random shapes and sizes work perfectly. We used our Cherrywood scraps for the samples but really, we reach for whatever is in our scrap bins when we are making these.

Tools: Our Colonial Needle Company Dream Team for Sashiko

  • John James Long Darners – These needles are perfect for sashiko stitching. The length gives you more stitches per pass, they are a little flexible so that give a little over the patches, and the sharp point handles multiple fabric layers without complaint.
  • Palm Thimble – If you’ve never used one of these, prepare to wonder how you lived without it. It sits in your palm and lets you push the needle through layers with control and zero finger pain.
  • Hand sewing needle – For closing up the turning opening. We are a divided household on our preferred hand sewing needles. Jason likes his JJ Sharps in size 7 or 9, while Shannon keeps a supply of JJ Betweens in size 11 and JJ Milliners in size 11 at hand.
  • Presencia 12wt thread for sashiko stitching – Presencia 12wt has the weight and texture that makes sashiko stitches really stand out. It glides through fabric smoothly and creates the signature dimensional texture that makes sashiko stitches so beautiful.

Other:

  • Roxanne glue stick (for temporarily holding patches in place)
  • Pins or clips for machine sewing

Cut:

  • Six, 5.5″ squares for coaster tops
  • Six, 5.5″ squares for coaster bottoms
  • Random cuts from scraps for boro patches. Really…we’re talking random here. All shapes and sizes and be ready to trim them to size as you go.

Step-by-Step: Making your boro & sashiko coasters

  1. Step 1: Arrange Your Patches
    Lay out your 5.5″ top squares and start playing with scrap placement. There’s no wrong way to do this so have some fun with it. Overlap them, leave gaps, go wild with color or keep it subdued – boro is about intuition, not rules. Don’t be afraid to explore your creative side here. Take your time and let your scraps tell you where they want to go.
  2. Step 2: Glue Baste
    Once you’re happy with how your patches look, use your Roxanne glue stick to tack the pieces in place. This temporary hold keeps everything from shifting when you start stitching. Just a little dab will do ya! (Hey that’s catchy!) Just a few strategic dabs will do is all it takes to hold the scraps secure while you stitch. Which brings us to…
  3. Step 3: Sashiko Time
    Thread your John James Long Darner with Presencia 12wt thread. Traditional sashiko uses a running stitch with a distinctive rhythm. The stitches are typically longer than the spaces between them, creating that signature look. If you aren’t familiar with this style of hand stitching, practice a little on some extra fabric until you feel comfortable enough to dive in. But remember this: This is hand stitching. It’s never going to look like machine stitching. Like our sashiko book title says, it’s that harmonious imperfection that makes boro and sashiko look so amazing.

    Once you get going, you can sashiko over the entire piece, creating a grid or pattern that unifies all your patches, or you can stitch just around the edges of each patch to secure them. Both approaches look stunning and we usually make some of each.

    To use the traditional method of making sashiko stitches, load multiple stitches onto your needle before pushing it through. This is where the length of the Long Darner comes in handy. Use your Palm Thimble to push the needle through the layers without wearing out your hand then pull the needle the rest of the way through.

    Don’t stress about perfection here. Sashiko is meant to be rhythmic and meditative, not measured with a ruler. Stitches that wander a bit? That’s the beauty of hand stitching. Your stitches will become more even the more you stitch but there will still be times when they skew a bit here and there. And that’s okay.
  4. Step 4: Pin Fronts to Backs
    Once you are finished stitching, place your finished top and the backing square right sides together. Pin or clip around the edges to keep everything aligned.
  5. Step 5: Sew Around the Edges
    Machine or hand sew around all four edges with a ¼” seam allowance, leaving a 2″ opening in the center of one side for turning. This opening is your escape hatch for getting everything right-side-out. We always mark the two sides of the opening to make sure we don’t accidentally sew it shut. Not that we’d ever do such a thing. Keep a seam ripper handy… just in case.
  6. Step 6: Trim the Corners
    Clip the corners close to (but not through!) your stitching line. This reduces bulk and helps you get crisp corners when you turn everything right-side-out.
  7. Step 7: Turn Right Side Out
    Reach through that 2″ opening and pull the coaster right side out. Use a chopstick or turning tool to gently push out the corners so they’re nice and sharp.
  8. Step 8: Press Flat
    Give everything a good press with your iron. This is the moment your coaster goes from “lumpy fabric sandwich” to “Hey! This actually looks pretty great!” We usually press from the back side of the coaster and lay the face side down on a fluffy towel or wool pressing mat to keep from flattening out the stitches.
  9. Step 9: Close the Opening
    Use a slip stitch or ladder stitch to hand-sew that turning opening closed. These stitches are nearly invisible when done correctly so just take your time and catch tiny bits of fabric from each side.
  10. Step 10: Press Again
    One final press and you’re done. Admire your work. Make five more. Hide them from everyone because you want to keep them all. Just us? Maybe make another set to give away.

Tips for Success

Stitch tension matters. Keep your sashiko stitches snug but not tight. You want them to sit on top of the fabric with a little dimension, not pull it into puckers. No puckers!

Embrace imperfection. Boro is literally about making do with what you have. If your patches are wonky or your stitches aren’t uniform, that’s not a mistake. That’s the character of modern boro-style patchwork.

Batch assembly is your friend. Cut all your squares at once, arrange all your patches, then move through the steps assembly-line style. You’ll be surprised how quickly a set of six comes together. Or two sets. Really… you’re going to want to keep one for yourself. Trust us on this.

Save your fingers and hands. Sometimes we get carried away with our layers. What look pretty isn’t always ideal for stitching through. We have stubbornly layered entirely too much heavy or dense fabric before and had to make one stitch at a time. Still fine… but our hands always pay the price the next day.

So there you have it. Small pieces of handmade textile are for you and for friends. Look, we know that handmade gifts walk a fine line. You want them to feel personal and thoughtful, but you also want them to be something people actually use instead of tucking them in a drawer and only pull out when you come over for a visit. Coasters fit squarely into that category. They’re practical, compact, and these boro and sashiko versions are beautiful enough to leave out on the coffee table. Again, they are textile art that start conversations.

Make a set of six for a host gift. Stitch up a batch in someone’s favorite colors. Pair them with a bag of good coffee beans, tea, or a bottle of wine. However you gift them, these coasters carry the message: I made this for you, with my own two hands.

And if you end up keeping them all for yourself? We totally understand. Giving yourself an awesome little gift is definitely encouraged.

Watch and Learn

If you’re in a visual learner mood or want to see some of these steps in action, we’ve created a companion video tutorial that walks through the key points of the process. It’s a helpful reference as you work through the written instructions.

▶️ Watch the video tutorial on YouTube here:

Get Your Supplies

Ready to turn your scraps into something special?

🧵 Shop Presencia threads here
🪡 Shop John James needles here
📄 Download the project handout below

For more sashiko, visit our website at shannonandjason.com and be sure to check out our workshop and our latest book, Stitching Sashiko.

Now gather those scraps, thread that needle, and start stitching. Your coffee table, and anyone luck enough to receive these, will thank you.

STITCH ON!!

S&J

Presencia Corner Bookmarks

September is here, which means the light shifts, the air cools (a little), and suddenly every book on the shelf starts whispering, *pick me up*. For makers, there’s a special magic in pairing fabric and thread with the quiet rhythm of turning pages. That’s where this month’s project comes in: the fabric corner bookmark.

It’s quick, it’s clever, and it’s stitched with Presencia thread — so it’s not just any bookmark, it’s a handmade one that will stay strong through chapter after chapter. Think of it as a tiny quilt block that holds your place between paragraphs.

The beauty of this project is how well it speaks to two parts of our community:

  1. The makers – You already have fabric scraps begging for a purpose and Presencia 40 wt and 12 wt ready to shine.
  2. The readers – Every book lover you know (including you!) could use a few of these tucked into novels, cookbooks, or pattern books.

They’re small enough to batch-make, personal enough to feel like a gift, and durable enough to actually be used. Which makes them just about perfect, right?

And here’s the twist we didn’t see coming until we tried it ourselves: these little bookmarks moonlight as coasters. Slip it off your book page, set it under your coffee mug or tea cup, and you’ve got a soft landing spot for your drink while you read. From page corner to tabletop — multifunctional stitching at its finest.

Presencia’s 40 wt Sewing Thread gives your machine-stitched edges that neat, polished look, while the chunkier 12 wt Perle Cotton brings personality when you hand-embroider a design or initial. However you finish them, they’re proof that thread isn’t just what holds projects together — it’s what makes them shine.

So gather your scraps, grab your Presencia, and make a little stack of bookmarks for yourself and your fellow book lovers. After all, stories are better when they’re shared — and so are stitches.

📄 Download the project handout below.
▶️ Watch the full tutorial on YouTube here.
🧵 Shop all Presencia threads here.

EPP: Take It with You!

Summer’s here, and that means patio lounging, iced coffee sipping, and—if you’re anything like us—crafting dangerously close to a family of squirrels who seem suspiciously interested in your fabric scraps. While the birds bathe and the squirrels plot, we’re hard at work on a little sashiko, or mending, and especially English Paper Piecing (EPP), the ultimate hand-sewing adventure.

If you’ve ever fantasized about creating gorgeous quilts, snuggly throws, charming baby blankets, mending patches, or pillows so cute they might just cause a nap emergency, EPP is your ticket.

No sewing experience? No problem! All you need are some vibrant fabric bits, pre-cut paper templates, and a whipstitch (it’s easier than convincing a squirrel to pay rent). Before long, you’ll have masterpiece patches ready for quilt blocks, home décor, or even jazzing up a plain t-shirt or boring jeans.

Warning: admiration from friends and random passersby may increase.

The real beauty of English Paper Piecing? It’s more portable than a picnic basket. You can take it anywhere, from the patio to the pool, or even the backseat of a road trip car—no stitching while driving, please. Fabric de-stashing is highly encouraged; your creative soul will thank you.

Colonial Needle Company stocks the goods to keep your EPP game strong. Roxanne glue sticks are essential for our outdoor sewing kits—Shannon swears by the John James Signature Collection Milliner needles; the subtle flexibility gives them the maneuverability to create those nearly invisible stitches.  Meanwhile, Jason is loyal to the Signature Collection Sharps in size #7 or #8 for applique, claiming they deliver smoother results than his signature iced latte. We suggest trying both—needle drama is half the fun.

So, step out your back door, settle into the shade with your beverage of choice (and your SPF), and let your creativity run wild. Who knows? You may end up with a quilt, a collection of squirrel fans, and a whole new appreciation for the joys of portable crafting this summer!

Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason

Our accompanying YouTube tutorial can be found here:

A Step-by-Step Guide to Stitching Kogin-zashi Through Evenweave Fabric onto Garments

Got a shirt that’s seen better days (and maybe one too many spaghetti dinners)? Give it a new lease on life—just grab some Colonial Persian Wool yarn and a small piece of evenweave fabric for an embroidery makeover that screams creativity louder than any stain. With this easy project, your favorite shirt, skirt, or pants will be rocking sashiko-inspired style and a fresh story to tell.

The Canvas: Selecting and Preparing Evenweave Fabric

Evenweave fabric is just that… even. The warp and weft threads are evenly spaced, setting you up for precise, symmetrical stitching. Common types— Davosa, Lugana, Aida, Hardinger, ect—come in various thread counts. For this project we recommend a 16–18 count evenweave; it’s just the right size to stitch up crisp geometric patterns. Don’t go out and buy the most expensive you can find… it does not end up in the final product. This is a great way to use up small leftover pieces of evenweave!

Threads and Tools

  • Thread: Traditional kogin-zashi is all about thick cotton threads and floss, but hey, the modern crafter lives for something new—so we decided to give Colonial Persian Wool a shot. Wowzah, were we impressed with the results! It’s toothy and stands out beautifully in the final shirt!
  • Needle: Kogin needles tend to be longer and sturdier than a regular embroidery needle, suitable for thick threads and weaving through heavier fabric. We really like Colonial Needle’s Short Bullion Needles with Tapestry tips for this.
  • Thimble: Colonial Needle’s Palm Thimble is the perfect tool for pushing the needle through both layers of fabric with ease.
  • Hoop: Embroidery hoops were not traditionally used in kogin stitching but are essential for this type of surface embroidery/visible mending. You’ll need a hoop at least 3’’ in diameter for a single motif or larger depending on the size of the spot you’re covering. Don’t worry… Colonial Needle Company has so many types and sizes of hoops, you’ll find what you need.

Modoko

We have provided a simple kogin motif (called a modoko) for you to use below. For more examples of modoko (both small and complex) check out our book Contemporary Kogin-zashi.

How To Stitch Kogin-zashi:

  1. Center the evenweave fabric on the stain on the right side of the shirt. Next, place the embroidery hoop over both the shirt fabric and the evenweave.
  2. Thread your needle. For this weight of fabric, we thread our needle with 2 strands of Colonial Persian Wool. You might prefer to use more or less depending on how dense or how puffy you like your stitches. Practice the motif of scrap fabric at least once to decide what you best like.
  3. Mark the center of the evenweave fabric to ensure your motif will be centered over the spot.
  4. Count over the number of threads from the center of the fabric to the left or right side of the center line of the motif. Then, working from the back, bring the needle up through both the shirt and evenweave fabric. Be careful to bring your needle up through up through the open holes of the evenweave fabric to prevent splitting the threads. Leave a small tail on the back for weaving in later.
  5. Work all the stitches in one row then turn your work and follow the next row of the pattern. Continue until you reach the top of the motif. Once the first half is complete return to the center row and work the second half in the opposite direction.First half of kogin-zashi design
  6. Continue working row by row until the motif is complete. Secure thread ends neatly on the back.
  7. After creating the motif and weaving in the ends of your yarn cut the excess evenweave fabric away then carefully remove the remaining evenweave by pulling strands of the fabric out one at a time. Once you are done removing the evenweave you will have a kogin motif sewn directly to your garment.
    pulling threads once motif is stitched

Kogin-zashi patterns are worked in horizontal rows, with stitches typically spanning an odd number of threads.  The signature of kogin-zashi is its counting method: stitches pass over and under one, three, five, or seven threads. It’s a simple matter of reading each row of the chart and stitching what you see on it. Each horizontal row of stitches sets snuggly against the neighboring rows to build the solid motif.

Tips for successful stitching:

  • Maintain even tension; stitches should lie flat but not pucker the fabric.
  • Count threads carefully—precision is crucial for the pattern’s symmetry.
  • Pay attention to the pattern’s overall flow and alignment, especially if stitching a repeating band or motif.
  • Use shorter lengths of thread to minimize fraying and tangling.

You can use this same technique using cross stitch patterns and simple embroidery stitches. The evenweave fabric ensures your stitches are straight and the same size every time!

Caring for Your Kogin-Zashi Embellished Garment

Because Colonial Persian Wool is virgin wool, we recommend hand washing with a no-rinse soap and drying flat.

Weaving Old and New

Bringing kogin-zashi to your wardrobe is more than embellishing fabric; it’s about honoring a legacy of ingenuity, patience, and artistry. Whether you stitch for mindfulness, fashion, or the thrill of learning, using kogin-zashi for visible mending a garment offers a tangible connection to history and a canvas for your own story.

So, gather your threads, choose a garment, and stitch a little piece of the Tsugaru spirit into every wear. Each pattern, every careful row, is a celebration not only of the past but of the creative present—one stitch at a time.

Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason

Find Your Sanity (and Your Needle): The DIY Project Pouch

Odds are, if you’re reading this, you’re some kind of crafter—embroiderer, cross-stitcher, sewist, or a proud member of the multiple-projects-in-progress club. And let’s be honest, while tote bags are great for carrying project, books, and patterns, they’re like the Bermuda Triangle—things just disappear and we end up digging around and invariably find that one loose sashiko needle. You know…

Enter project pouches: These handy, customizable companions keep your tools, materials, and sanity intact. And seriously, who doesn’t love a good pouch with a zipper and a clear window to show off that chaos we call creativity? Sadly, the perfect pouch is as hard to find as your favorite thimble in a couch cushion. So, we decided to make our own!

Armed with Colonial Needle Company supplies, leftover fabric, a stray zipper, and a quick trip to the second-hand art store (a.k.a. crafter’s paradise), voilà! The Windowed Project Pouch with Zipper was born—stylish, secure, and ready to save your supplies from tote bag purgatory. We designed our pouch to keep books and individual patterns safe while still being able to see which book and which pattern are in there. This way, we can chuck it in that tote bag we mentioned earlier and it won’t get all ripped up, bumped, and mashed.

We’re sharing a free pattern and a full video walk through on the Colonial Needle Blog so you can dive in and make your own. The video includes a FAB technique for setting in the zipper as well as how to add a window to just about any bag you make. T rust us, after your first pouch, you’ll be hooked. By the second, you’ll be customizing sizes and making mini versions for makeup or snacks—or let’s be real, more craft supplies. So far, we have used the fabric leftovers to make two other smaller pouches that are being used for carrying such things securely in our totes and other bags. There’s more of those on our website if you are interested in following us down that rabbit hole.

Be sure to tag Colonial Needle Company in your makes so we can brag on you all… we like doing that.

Happy crafting, and may your pouches always be findable and full (of the right stuff)!

Downloadable Pattern:

Stayin’ Sharp!

There are a vast array of reasons to love rotary cutters. From the easy speed they provide, to the clean edge of the cuts they make, to that smooth slicing sound they make when elegantly gliding through a stack of cotton…yea, that sound… rotary cutters are a crafters best friend. But what if your best friend is no longer fast, clean, or smooth. It’s time for a little intervention.

Just like dull knives in the kitchen, dull tools in your sewing room are a recipe for frustration and accidents. A blunt blade can mean skips, and ragged edges which can result in thread snags and pulls and having to take the time to go back and snip those threads and missed cuts when all we really want to do is sew. In addition, when the blade is dull, we usually compensate by applying more pressure which can lead to hand, wrist, and shoulder pain or injury. And none of us has time for that! The solution? Either out swap the blade (in this economy?!?) or give it a spa day and sharpen it. Yeah. That second one.

While we do keep a stash of spare blades “just in case,” there’s an easy, budget-friendly option: Colonial’s Rotary Blade Sharpener. This magical little tool is like a fairy godparent for your rotary blades—no wand required. Carefully remove your blade, pop it into the sharpener, and give it a few gentle twists. Voilà! The dual grit sides work together to turn back the clock on your blade’s dull days, leaving it sharper, shinier, and ready for action.

The result? Your blades work better, live longer, and stop making you question your crafting life choices. Give it a whirl—you’ll thank yourself, and so will your fabric.

As always, Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason