Mishap to Masterpiece: A Blanket Stitch Patch to be Proud of.

Posted on October 13, 2026 by Colonial Needle

How to Patch Jeans with Blanket Stitch for a Durable, Decorative Repair

Colonial Needle Company Blog | By Shannon & Jason

Let’s talk about knees. Specifically, the knees of your favorite jeans. You know the pair. They fit like they were made for you, they’ve been broken in for years, and then one day you look down and there it is. A hole. Maybe it started as a thin spot. Maybe there was a sidewalk incident we don’t need to discuss. Either way, the once faithful fabric in the area of the knee has given up, and you’re left wondering if it’s time to say goodbye.

But wait! The is not the time to bid farewell to those beloved jeans. Not even close.

This month we’re patching a torn knee (or any other area of general wear and tear) with one of the hardest working hand stitches out there: the blanket stitch. And we are not hiding this repair…we’re framing it like a work of art in a museum. A pop of vibrant fabric peeking through the hole, a ring of bold perlé cotton around the edge, and suddenly the hole is the best part of the jeans. We’ll take that textile mishap and turn it into a masterpiece!

One Stitch, Two Jobs

Here’s what makes the blanket stitch such a clever little stitch. When you patch a hole, you actually have two problems to solve. First, the patch needs to be attached and second, the edge of the denim around the hole is raw, and raw edges fray. Leave it alone and that hole runs the risk of creeping outward every time you bend your knee. Now, that said, we love a good frayed edge but, for this patch, we’re going to let the perle cotton take center stage.

The blanket stitch handles both at once. The straight part of each stitch goes down through the denim and the patch, anchoring them together. The loop at the top of each stitch wraps over the raw edge of the hole, holding those cut threads in place so they stop unraveling. One stitch, two jobs. We do love an overachiever!

“Can’t I Just Use an Iron-On Patch?”

We hear this one every time we talk about hand stitched mending, and it’s a fair question. For some things, iron-on patches are fine. Play clothes that will be outgrown by spring? Go for it, no judgment here.

But in our studio experience, iron-on patches tend to lift at the corners on spots that flex all day, like knees and elbows, and they stiffen the fabric right where you need it to move. A hand stitched patch bends with you. It can be removed or replaced down the road if you want to change things up. And honestly? It looks a whole lot better.

Visible on Purpose

There’s a long and wonderful tradition of mending that doesn’t try to disappear. Visible mending says, “Yes, this was torn, and yes, someone cared enough to fix it.” We think that’s worth showing off.

This is the perfect place for that fabric scrap you love too much to let go of, and the thread color you’ve been saving for something special. A bright floral behind dark indigo? Gingham? A little piece of a favorite shirt that finally wore out? All yes! The patch sits behind the hole, so whatever you choose shows through like a window, and the blanket stitch becomes the frame around it.

What You’ll Need

Jeans or any garment with a hole. Ours had a torn knee, but this works on elbows, pockets, tote bags… if it has a worn spot or a rip, grab it and patch it up.
Fabric for the patch. Solid or patterned, your call. Since it shows through the hole, pick something you’ll enjoy looking at.
Presencia 8 weight perlé cotton. A twisted, non-divisible thread with a lovely sheen and enough body to wrap a raw denim edge and stand out against it. Contrast is your friend here.
John James embroidery needle. The sharp point gets through denim, and the long eye makes threading perle cotton a lot less fussy.
Thimble Crown. Stainless steel with a dimpled surface and a raised edge that keeps the needle from slipping. It sticks right to your finger with an adhesive pad, which means Shannon gets to keep her manicure. (Longtime readers know how we feel about this little thing. If you missed it, catch up [here].)
Roxanne Glue Stick. Water soluble and acid-free. It holds the patch in place while you stitch, so you can skip the pins.
Roxanne Quilter’s Choice White Marking Pencil. Pure chalk and water soluble, it shows up crisp on dark denim, which is exactly what you want for a stitching guide.
Scissors and an iron.

Let’s Stitch!

Step 1: Tidy Up the Hole

Trim away the loose, stringy threads hanging into the opening so you have a clean edge to stitch around. Don’t try to turn it into a perfect circle or square. Keep the shape your jeans gave you. It’s part of the story.

Step 2: Cut Your Patch

Cut your patch fabric about 1″ larger than the hole on all sides. That extra inch gives your stitches plenty to hold on to, and anything you don’t need gets trimmed away at the end.

Step 3: Glue It in Place

Turn the jeans inside out or reach up inside the leg. Before you glue anything, slide a piece of cardboard inside the leg. Trust us, you do not want to glue the front of your jeans to the back.

Run the Roxanne Glue Stick around the hole on the wrong side of the denim, then press the patch in place with its right side facing the hole. That way, the side you love is the side that shows.

Step 4: Heat Set

Give the patch a quick press with a dry iron. The heat sets the glue so the patch stays put while you stitch. Skip the steam here. The glue is water soluble, and moisture can soften it before it has a chance to set.

In our studio, this little step is the difference between stitching through denim feeling fiddly and feeling easy. No pins poking you. No layers sliding around. Just you, your needle, and a patch that stays exactly where you put it.

Step 5: Mark Your Stitching Line

Use the white marking pencil to draw a line all the way around the hole, about 1/4″ back from the edge. This is your guide for stitch depth. Every stitch goes down on that line, so even if your hole is wonky (and let’s be real, it probably is), your stitches stay consistent all the way around. Bonus: the pencil mark is water soluble, so it rinses away when you’re done.

Step 6: Blanket Stitch Around the Hole

Thread your needle with about an arm’s length of perle cotton and knot the end. Then:

Bring the needle up from the back, right at the edge of the hole.
Go down on your pencil line, through both the denim and the patch.
Come back up just inside the opening, through the patch, with the working thread looped under the needle tip.
Pull through snugly. Watch the thread wrap over the raw edge. That’s your first blanket stitch!
Move over about 1/4″ and repeat, working your way around the hole.

A few things we’ve learned along the way:

Snug, not tight. Denim at the knee needs to move. Pull your stitches too hard and the patch will pucker. If you are patching a different area or stitching through a lighter weight fabric, make sure your thread tension matches the fabric so the finished patch doesn’t pucker or pull at the surrounding area.
Mind the curves. Around tighter curves, take slightly smaller steps between stitches so the loops stay snug against the edge.
Let the thimble do the pushing. Denim plus a patch is two layers, and denim pushes back. Your fingertip will thank you.
Running out of thread? Take the old thread to the back and knot it. Start your new length by coming up inside the last loop and carry on like nothing happened.

Step 7: Close the Circle and Tie Off

When you’ve stitched all the way around, slip the needle under the loop of your very first stitch to connect the end to the beginning. Take the thread to the back, weave the tail under a few stitches before tying a knot and trimming the tail.

Step 8: Trim the Excess

Turn the jeans inside out and take a look. If there’s a lot of extra patch fabric beyond your stitching, trim it back, leaving about 1/2″. That keeps the inside of the knee smooth and comfy to wear.

Caring for Your Mend

Both the Roxanne glue and the chalk marks are water soluble, so they’ll come out in the wash. Just wash your jeans the way you normally would. If you like to baby your mends (we see you), turn the jeans inside out first but the Presencia Perle Cotton is strong enough to stand up to a lifetime of washes,

Every Hole Is an Invitation

Mending is one of the most quietly rebellious things you can do with a needle and thread. Every patch says this garment is worth keeping, and so is the time you spend on it. We call this way of thinking Wardrobe Architecture: treating the clothes you already own as something to build on, repair, and keep, instead of something to replace. If you want to dig deeper, our Mending Handbook is packed with techniques like this one.

So go dig out those jeans with the busted knee. Grab a scrap you love and a thread that makes you happy. Your favorite pair isn’t finished. It’s just getting started on its next chapter.

▶️ Watch the full tutorial on YouTube:

🧵 Shop Presencia perle cotton, John James needles, the Thimble Crown, and Roxanne tools https://colonialneedle.com/ .

STITCH ON!

Shannon & Jason

Split Stitch: A Beginner’s Guide to Texture, Lines & Detail

Posted on September 16, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Sometimes the simplest stitches are the ones that give you the most creative freedom. The split stitch creates a beautifully textured line that’s equally at home outlining a delicate flower, following the curves of embroidered lettering, or adding detail to a larger design.

What makes this stitch different? Instead of placing each new stitch beside the last, your needle actually passes through the previous stitch, splitting the thread. The result is a continuous, slightly textured line that almost resembles a tiny braid.

With September’s focus on texture and layers, it’s a perfect stitch to add to your repertoire.

What Is a Split Stitch?

The split stitch is an embroidery stitch made by bringing the needle up through the center of the previous stitch, separating—or “splitting”—the thread as you go.

That simple technique creates a strong, continuous line with more texture than a backstitch but a slightly different appearance from stem stitch.

Because the stitches connect so closely, split stitch follows curves particularly well and can create remarkably smooth outlines.

When to Use Split Stitch

Split stitch is a wonderfully versatile embroidery technique.

Try it for:

Outlining embroidery motifs
Curved lines and intricate shapes
Lettering and monograms
Flower stems and botanical designs
Filling small areas
Creating a foundation underneath satin stitch
Adding texture to layered embroidery

It can be subtle when worked with fine floss or much more prominent when stitched with heavier thread.

What You’ll Need

Embroidery or crewel needle like these
Embroidery floss (our favorite is Presencia)
Cotton or linen fabric
Embroidery hoop
Small scissors
Fabric marking pencil or transfer tool, if needed

Tip: Split stitch is easiest when you’re working with a divisible thread. Using an even number of strands makes it easier to bring your needle up cleanly through the center of the previous stitch.

How to Sew Split Stitch

Step 1: Bring Your Needle Up

Bring the needle from the back of the fabric to the front at the beginning of your design line.

Step 2: Make Your First Stitch

Take a small straight stitch forward along your marked line.

Step 3: Split the Stitch

Bring your needle back up through the center of the stitch you just made, splitting the strands of thread as evenly as possible.

Step 4: Stitch Forward Again

Insert the needle a short distance ahead along your design line and pull the thread through.

Step 5: Repeat

Bring the needle up through the center of that newest stitch and continue working forward.

As you repeat the process, you’ll see the characteristic continuous, textured line begin to form.

Tips for a Smooth Split Stitch

Keep your stitches relatively short when following curves.
Aim for the center of each previous stitch.
Maintain gentle, consistent thread tension.
Try an even number of floss strands so you can divide them evenly.
For a smoother line, keep your stitch length consistent.
For a more organic effect, experiment with slightly varied stitch lengths.

Split Stitch vs. Stem Stitch

These two stitches can look similar, but they’re constructed differently.

With stem stitch, each new stitch overlaps the previous stitch while the working thread remains consistently on one side.

With split stitch, the needle comes directly through the previous stitch and separates the thread.

Stem stitch creates a more distinctly twisted line, while split stitch produces a slightly flatter, braided texture. Both are excellent choices for outlines and curves—the look you want can help determine which one you choose.

Try Adding a Second Layer

September is all about texture and layers, so don’t stop after one line.

Try working a second row of split stitch beside the first, layering another stitch over it, or changing thread colors and weights. Split stitch can also serve as padding underneath satin stitch, giving the finished embroidery additional dimension.

Sometimes exploring a familiar technique in a new way is all it takes to change the look of a project.

Projects to Try

Put your split stitch skills to work on:

Embroidered lettering
Botanical motifs
Floral outlines
Monograms
Decorative borders
Small filled motifs
Layered embroidery samplers

Whether you use it as a subtle outline or build it into a textured design, split stitch is a simple technique with plenty of room for experimentation.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Classroom & Workshop Projects

Posted on August 17, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Needle Know-How from Colonial Needle

There’s something special about teaching someone to stitch.

Whether you’re leading a workshop, teaching a guild program, introducing a child or grandchild to hand sewing, or simply showing a friend how to thread a needle, you’re doing more than completing a project together. You’re helping someone build skills they may carry with them for years.

And when someone is learning, the tools we give them matter.

A needle that’s difficult to thread, a project that takes too long to finish, or supplies that aren’t well matched can turn an exciting first experience into a frustrating one. The right combination of project, needle, thread, and instruction helps new stitchers focus on learning—not fighting with their materials.

The Stitching Scenario

Classes, workshops & learn-to-stitch projects

This might include:

Beginning hand-sewing classes
Embroidery workshops
Quilting or appliqué classes
Visible-mending sessions
Guild programs
Kids’ or teen sewing activities
Make-and-take projects
Informal lessons with friends or family

These settings present a different challenge from stitching at home: the same supplies may need to work comfortably for people with very different levels of experience.

For teachers, that means thinking beyond simply asking, “Which needle is technically correct?”

A better question may be:

Which needle will help my students succeed?

The Common Challenges

Beginning stitchers often struggle with things experienced makers barely think about anymore:

Threading the needle
Holding and controlling a very fine needle
Pulling thick thread through a small eye
Knowing where to insert the needle
Keeping thread from tangling
Managing tension
Understanding unfamiliar terminology
Staying motivated through a project that takes too long

When you’re planning a class, removing even one or two of those obstacles can make learning considerably more enjoyable.

Why the Right Tool Matters

Eye Size

For a beginner, an eye that’s slightly easier to see and thread can be far more valuable than choosing the finest possible needle for the finished stitch.

The thread should pass comfortably through the eye without being forced.

Needle Length

Very short needles can offer wonderful control to an experienced stitcher but may feel awkward in unfamiliar hands.

A moderately sized needle is often easier for beginners to grip, maneuver, and see.

Point Style

The project determines whether you need a sharp or blunt point.

A sharp needle is appropriate when the stitch needs to pierce the fabric. A blunt tapestry needle can be useful for counted techniques or projects where the needle should pass between fabric threads instead.

This is a great opportunity to teach students why the needles are different rather than simply handing them one.

Needle Size

One of the most useful lessons we can give a new stitcher is that needle size isn’t arbitrary.

Show students how the needle relates to:

Fabric weight and weave
Thread thickness
Stitch type
The desired finished effect

Understanding that relationship builds a skill they can use long after the class ends.

Our Recommendation: Build a Small Teaching Kit

Instead of trying to provide every possible needle, create a small assortment suited to the project you’re teaching.

Depending on the class, that might include:

Sharps
A versatile starting point for general hand sewing, mending, and many construction projects. sharps needles

Embroidery/Crewel Needles
Useful when working with embroidery floss or decorative threads because of their elongated eyes and sharp points

. crewel embroidery

Chenille Needles
A good choice when students need both a larger eye and a sharp point, particularly with heavier decorative threads.

chenille needles

Tapestry Needles
Ideal for counted work and techniques where a blunt point should pass between fabric threads rather than pierce them.

tapestry needles

The goal isn’t to teach every needle in one sitting. It’s to help students understand why this needle works for this project.

Pro Tip: Teach the “Why”

If you’re teaching a workshop, take two minutes at the beginning to talk about the needle.

Show students the eye.

Show them the point.

Let them compare it with another needle type.

Explain why you chose it for the fabric and thread they’ll be using.

That tiny lesson turns a supply into knowledge.

And the next time they start a project at home, they’ll be better equipped to choose for themselves.

Start With a Project They Can Finish

Tool choice is only part of a successful learning experience.

The project matters, too.

For beginners and short workshops, look for something that:

Teaches one or two core skills
Doesn’t require a large supply list
Can be completed—or substantially completed—in one session
Gives the student something useful or attractive to take home
Leaves room for personalization

A small finished project creates a sense of accomplishment that can be incredibly motivating for a new stitcher.

Need a Project? Start With Our Free Pattern Library

If you’re planning a class, workshop, stitch-along, or afternoon of teaching someone new, you don’t necessarily have to develop a project from scratch.

Colonial Needle’s Free Patterns library includes complimentary projects and tutorials for quilting, embroidery, Sashiko, visible mending, and hand stitching, with printable resources, written instructions, and video tutorials available for many projects.

For a beginner class, something as simple as a fabric Corner Bookmark can introduce basic construction without requiring a major time commitment. A Sashiko Denim Bookmark can provide an approachable introduction to hand stitching and using a palm thimble. Or, for a sewing workshop, our DIY Project Pouch creates something students can continue using to organize future projects.

The goal isn’t simply to finish the project.

It’s to give students an approachable place to begin.

Reader Takeaway: A Better Beginner Experience

When you’re teaching someone to stitch:

✔ Choose a needle that’s comfortable to hold and easy to thread
✔ Match the needle to both the thread and the fabric
✔ Explain why you’ve chosen that particular tool
✔ Keep the first project manageable
✔ Limit the number of new skills introduced at once
✔ Give students something they can finish and feel proud of
✔ Send them home with resources that encourage them to keep learning

The best teaching tools don’t just help someone complete their first project.

They help them feel confident enough to start the second one.

Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for needlepoint on canvas—including how canvas mesh, thread weight, and needle size work together.

Until then, share what you know. Sometimes one needle, one project, and one patient teacher are all it takes to create a lifelong stitcher.

Pad Stitch: The Hidden Technique That Gives Handmade Garments Their Shape

Posted on August 3, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Some of the most important stitches in sewing are the ones you’ll never see.

The pad stitch is one of those hidden heroes. Used primarily in tailoring, this hand-sewing technique adds structure, support, and shape to collars, lapels, facings, and other garment details. While it isn’t decorative like a French knot or practical like a buttonhole stitch, it plays an essential role in creating garments that look polished and professional.

If you’ve ever admired a beautifully tailored blazer or coat, chances are the pad stitch was working behind the scenes.

What Is a Pad Stitch?

A pad stitch is a series of small diagonal stitches used to join two layers of fabric—typically an outer fabric and an interfacing. Rather than simply holding the layers together, the stitches help shape the fabric, allowing collars and lapels to naturally roll and hold their form.

The stitches are worked in offset rows, creating flexibility while securely anchoring the layers.

When & How It’s Used

Pad stitch is most commonly used in garment construction and tailoring. It is ideal for:

Jacket and blazer lapels
Coat collars
Shirt collars
Tailored facings
Structured hats
Couture sewing techniques

While most home sewists won’t use pad stitch every day, it’s an invaluable technique to learn if you’re interested in garment making or improving the quality of handmade clothing.

What You’ll Need

Sharp hand-sewing needle (milliners or sharps work well)
Fine hand-sewing thread, like Presencia 60 weight
Wool, cotton, or hair canvas interfacing
Fashion fabric
Tailor’s ham (optional)
Fabric clips or pins
Scissors

Pro Tip: Fine, sharp needles allow you to catch just a few fibers of the outer fabric, keeping the stitches virtually invisible from the front.

How to Sew a Pad Stitch

Step 1: Layer Your Fabrics – Place the interfacing against the wrong side of your fabric and pin or baste in place.
Step 2: Pick Up a Few Fibers – Bring the needle through the interfacing and catch only a tiny amount of the fashion fabric. The stitch should barely show on the right side.
Step 3: Stitch Diagonally – Make a small diagonal stitch through the interfacing and repeat, working in evenly spaced rows.
Step 4: Shape as You Sew – As you work, gently curve the fabric over your hand or a tailor’s ham. The pad stitches will help “train” the fabric to hold that shape.
Step 5: Continue Across the Area – Repeat until the entire collar or lapel is stitched, maintaining even spacing and tension.

Tips for Successful Pad Stitching

Catch only a few fibers of the outer fabric.
Keep stitches evenly spaced.
Maintain gentle, even tension.
Work over a curved surface when shaping collars and lapels.
Practice on scrap fabric before working on a finished garment.

Common Projects Using Pad Stitch

Pad stitch is commonly found in:

Tailored jackets
Wool coats
Dress collars
Suit lapels
Couture garments
Structured costume pieces

Although hidden inside the garment, pad stitch is one of the techniques that separates handmade clothing from professionally tailored pieces.

Next Month: We’ll revisit the Split Stitch, a classic embroidery stitch perfect for smooth outlines, lettering, and delicate detail work.

The Right Tool for the Stitch: Sashiko & Japanese Running Stitch

Posted on July 15, 2026 by Colonial Needle

A simple running stitch can carry remarkable history.

Sashiko is a Japanese stitching tradition with roots in the practical care, reinforcement, layering, and repair of cloth. Although many stitchers today recognize sashiko by its striking geometric patterns—often worked in white thread against indigo fabric—its story extends beyond decoration. Stitching helped strengthen textiles, extend their usefulness, and add warmth at a time when cloth was valuable and meant to be cared for.

Today, sashiko continues as a living and evolving practice in Japan while also inspiring stitchers around the world. As we explore the tools associated with this work, we do so with respect for the traditions and knowledge from which they come—and with the understanding that one article can offer only an introduction.

For our purposes, we’ll focus on an area we know well: how the length of the needle, the structure of the thread, and the use of a palm thimble can support the distinctive rhythm of running stitch.

The Stitching Scenario

Sashiko and Japanese running-stitch projects

Depending on the style, purpose, and pattern, contemporary projects may include:

Geometric stitched samplers
Reinforced or repaired garments
Decorative panels
Quilted or layered textiles
Bags and home décor
Small projects such as bookmarks and coasters

Although running stitch is fundamental to many sashiko practices, sashiko is more than a decorative running-stitch pattern. Different traditions and regional styles have developed their own methods, patterns, and characteristics.

The tools used can also differ from those chosen for a typical Western-style running stitch.

The Common Challenges

Stitchers who are new to sashiko-inspired stitching may experience:

Difficulty keeping stitches consistent
Puckering or pulling in the fabric
Trouble loading several stitches onto the needle
Hand fatigue from pushing the needle with a fingertip
Uneven tension between stitched and unstitched areas
Difficulty developing a smooth stitching rhythm

These challenges do not necessarily mean you need to make every stitch perfectly identical. In fact, focusing too heavily on visual perfection can distract from learning the motion and rhythm of the technique.

The right tools can help the stitching feel more natural and efficient.

Why the Right Tool Matters

Needle Length

Sashiko needles are generally longer and sturdier than many standard hand-sewing needles.

The additional length allows multiple stitches to be loaded onto the needle before the thread is pulled through. Rather than making each stitch individually, the stitcher can build a sequence of running stitches along the needle.

This supports a steady, continuous rhythm.

Needle Strength

Because several stitches may be gathered onto the needle—and because the needle may be pushed using the palm—it needs enough strength and stability to move through the fabric without excessive bending.

The best needle should feel substantial enough for the fabric while still moving through it smoothly.

Eye Size

Traditional sashiko thread is generally thicker and more softly twisted than standard sewing thread. A sufficiently large, smooth eye helps accommodate the thread without excessive friction or wear.

Your thread should pass through the eye comfortably rather than requiring force.

The Palm Thimble

One of the most distinctive tools associated with sashiko stitching is the palm thimble.

Rather than sitting over the end of a finger, a palm thimble is positioned near the base of the finger so the needle can be guided and pushed with the hand. This supports the motion of loading multiple stitches onto a longer needle before drawing the thread through.

For stitchers accustomed to pushing a needle with the tip of a finger, this movement may feel unfamiliar at first. With practice, however, the needle and thimble can work together to create an efficient stitching rhythm.

Our Recommendation: Tools for Sashiko & Japanese Running Stitch

Long Sashiko Needles

A long sashiko needle is designed to accommodate multiple running stitches at once.

Look for:

Enough length to load several stitches
A strong, stable shaft
A smooth eye large enough for sashiko thread
A sharp point that enters the fabric precisely

Longer needles can be especially useful for continuous lines and larger geometric patterns.

Shorter Sashiko Needles

Longer is not always better.

A somewhat shorter sashiko needle may provide greater control when working:

Short pattern sections
Curves
Corners
Small motifs
Detailed designs

As with many forms of needlework, the best needle depends on the project and the stitcher’s comfort.

Palm Thimble

A palm thimble (like this one) helps support the traditional hand motion associated with loading multiple stitches.

Instead of pushing from the fingertip:

Position the thimble near the base of the finger, according to its design.
Guide the fabric onto the needle.
Use the palm thimble to help push the needle forward.
Load several stitches before drawing the thread through.

This motion takes practice. Begin slowly and focus on becoming comfortable with the relationship between the needle, fabric, and thimble.

Pro Tip: Focus on Rhythm Before Perfection

When learning a new stitching motion, it can be tempting to concentrate entirely on making every stitch exactly the same size.

Instead, begin by finding a comfortable rhythm.

Work slowly. Load only a few stitches at a time. Pay attention to how the fabric moves over the needle and how the palm thimble supports your hand.

Consistency often develops naturally as the movement becomes more familiar.

A Note on Learning with Respect

Sashiko is sometimes reduced to a visual formula: white running stitches, indigo fabric, and geometric patterns. Those elements may be familiar, but they do not tell the whole story.

The tradition developed in connection with the practical care and continued use of textiles. Its forms and practices vary, and knowledge continues to be carried forward by Japanese sashiko practitioners today.

If sashiko is new to you, consider this article an introduction to the tools—not a complete guide to the tradition.

We encourage curious stitchers to seek out Japanese sashiko teachers, artists, historians, and makers; learn about the origins and meanings of the patterns they use; and approach the practice with curiosity and respect.

Reader Takeaway: Quick Tool Guide

For sashiko and Japanese running-stitch projects:

✔ Choose a longer, sturdy needle when loading several stitches (we like this one)

✔ Try a shorter sashiko needle for curves and detailed areas (this is a great assortment)

✔ Match the needle eye to the thickness of your thread

✔ Use a palm thimble to support the stitching motion (found here)

✔ Begin with a few stitches at a time as you develop your rhythm

✔ Learn about the history and traditions alongside the technique

The right tools do more than make stitching easier—they can help us better understand the movements and methods associated with the work.

Sashiko and Japanese Running Stitch Quick Reference Card Download

Looking Ahead

Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore tools for classroom and workshop projects—and how thoughtful tool choices can help new stitchers build confidence.

Until then, stitch with curiosity, care, and an appreciation for the traditions that continue to teach and inspire us.

Beat the Summer Heat: Craft a Quick DIY Sashiko Denim Bookmark

Posted on July 14, 2026 by Colonial Needle

Summer is officially here, which means two things in for us: a growing stack of summer reading books and an absolute refusal to sit under a massive, heavy quilt top while the temperature climbs.

If you’re looking for a bite-sized, satisfying project that keeps your hands busy without overheating, we’ve got the perfect solution. Today, we’re upcycling some old denim scraps into a beautiful, durable sashiko-stitched bookmark. It’s light, portable, and a fantastic way to practice your stitching.

✂️ Free Download Alert! Want to print this out for your studio table? We’ve put together a free, step-by-step project sheet featuring the exact template and pattern grid used in this tutorial. Download your free project sheet below!

CNC Sashiko Bookmark Handout Download

The Right Tools for Tough Denim

Stitching through heavy denim can sometimes feel like a workout for your fingers, but using the right notions changes everything. Here’s what’s on my studio tool tray for this project:

Roxanne’s Quilter’s Choice White Marking Pencil: Marking dark denim can be a nightmare. This pencil glides on smoothly, stays crisp while you work, and brushes or washes away easily without leaving a ghost line.
Joh n James Long Darners: For Sashiko, you want a needle that allows you to load up multiple stitches at once. These long darners are strong enough to handle denim without bending, yet sharp enough to pierce the weave like butter.
Presencia 12-wt T hread: This 100% cotton thread provides the perfect weight and sheen for visible mending and Sashiko. It stands out beautifully against the blue denim.
Colonial Pal m Thimble: If you haven’t tried a palm thimble yet, prepare to have your mind blown. Instead of pushing the needle with the tip of your finger, you use the power of your palm. It’s a total joint-saver when working with thick fabrics.

Step-by-Step to Summer Stitches

Ready to see this project in action? Sometimes it’s easier to catch the exact rhythm of the stitch on camera. Watch the full, step-by-step video over on our YouTube channel to see how it all comes together!

Join the Conversation

Are you tackling any small projects to beat the summer heat? What book is this bookmark going to live in first? Grab your free project sheet above, check out the video tutorial, and let me know your thoughts in the comments below!