At first glance, the running stitch may seem like the simplest stitch in hand sewing. It’s often one of the first stitches we learn, used for quick repairs, gathering fabric, or temporary basting.
But around the world, this humble stitch has been transformed into something extraordinary.
From the intricate geometric patterns of Japanese Sashiko to modern visible mending, the running stitch has become both a practical tool and an art form. With just a needle, thread, and a little creativity, you can reinforce worn fabrics, create decorative designs, or simply enjoy the calming rhythm of stitching.
What Is a running Stitch?
The running stitch is created by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals, forming a line of evenly spaced stitches.
Its simplicity makes it incredibly versatile. Change the stitch length, spacing, thread weight, or pattern, and the running stitch can shift from functional construction to decorative embroidery.
When & How It’s Used
The running stitch is ideal for:
Visible mending and decorative repairs
Sashiko-inspired stitching
Quilting and big stitch quilting
Gathering fabric
Temporary basting
Decorative borders
Hand quilting
Simple embroidery accents
It is one of the most versatile stitches every maker should know.
Pro Tip: For visible mending or Sashiko-inspired projects, choose a thicker cotton thread in a contrasting color to highlight the stitch pattern.
How to Sew a Running Stitch
Step 1: Mark Your Stitch Line – Lightly draw a straight line or pattern on your fabric if desired.
Step 2: Bring the Needle Up – Bring the needle up through the fabric at the beginning of your line.
Step 3: Weave the Needle – Pass the needle in and out of the fabric in evenly spaced intervals, loading several stitches onto the needle before pulling it through.
Step 4: Continue the Pattern – Repeat the process, maintaining consistent stitch lengths and spacing.
Step 5: Finish the Thread – Secure the thread on the back of the fabric with a small knot or weave it beneath existing stitches.
Tips for Beautiful Running Stitches
Keep stitch length as even as possible.
Practice loading multiple stitches onto the needle for efficiency.
Use contrasting thread to emphasize decorative patterns.
Experiment with curved lines and geometric designs.
Don’t strive for perfection—the handmade character is part of the charm.
Common Projects Using Running Stitch
The running stitch is perfect for:
Visible clothing repairs
Sashiko-inspired coasters and placemats
Quilted table runners
Decorative tote bags
Hand-quilted projects
Embroidered borders
Slow stitching journals
Whether you’re repairing a favorite pair of jeans or creating a beautiful decorative pattern, the running stitch proves that the simplest techniques often have the greatest impact.
Next Month: We’ll explore the Pad Stitch, a tailoring technique that adds hidden structure and professional finishing to handmade garments.
We almost left a needle permanently inside a quilt. No, it was not as a design choice for some strange mixed media piece. A side-threading easy needle had snagged on the batting inside the quilt layers during the tail-burying process, and no amount of gentle coaxing, creative angling, or colorful language was going to free it. We were this close to declaring it a permanent resident of that quilt and moving on with our lives. In addition, over the course of that one quilt, we broke six needles out of a pack of side-threading needles. It turns out that molding that swirl into the side of a needle results in a thin piece of metal that will, indeed, snap off without too much effort.
Jason had been researching top-loading easy thread needles in the background—because of course he had—and that was the moment we stopped debating and started acting. We called our local fabric store to make sure they had them in stock, jumped in the car, drove down the hill, and came home with a pack of John James top-loading easy thread needles.
That was during the making of our book Scrappy Wonky Quilt Block Extravaganza. This many years later, they are the only easy thread needles in our studio. We now work with Colonial Needle Company and can speak with absolute authority: these needles are the real deal.
The Problem With Side-Threading Needles
If you’ve tried easy threading needles before and given up on them, we’d bet good money you were using side-loading versions.
Side-threading needles have a slot on the side of the needle shaft. The thread snaps in from the side rather than being passed through a traditional eye. In theory: brilliant. In practice: the open slot catches on fabric fibers as you pull the needle through, creating snags, pulls, and—if you’re working through quilt layers—a needle that grabs the batting like velcro and refuses to let go. And just forget using the shaft of your needle to tie a knot… We know this from experience. Painful, frustrating, knotted thread, nearly-left-a-needle-in-a-quilt experience.
Why Top-Loading Changes Everything
The John James top-loading easy thread needle has a channel at the top of the needle rather than a slot on the side. You press the thread down into the channel from above, and the needle is threaded. No more squinting at a tiny eye. No more licking the thread end and hoping for the best.
But here’s the crucial difference: the channel is enclosed as the needle passes through fabric. There’s nothing exposed to catch on fibers, snag delicate fabric, or grab batting mid-burial. The needle moves through your layers cleanly, exactly the way it should.
The Real Hero Feature: Burying Thread Tails
Let’s talk about what these needles were actually born to do, because this is where they earn their place as the only easy thread needle in our studio.
Finishing a quilt means burying thread tails. All of them. Every single starting and stopping point from every line of quilting stitching gets a tail, and every one of those tails needs to be buried between the quilt layers so it disappears completely into the finished piece.
On a complex quilt? We’re easily talking hundreds of tails; possibly more.
Threading each of those tails through a traditional needle is maddening. It’s the part of finishing a quilt that can genuinely dampen your enthusiasm for a project you’ve spent months loving. Your eyes are tired. The threads are short. The needle is small. And you have approximately four hundred more to go.
Top-loading easy thread needles make this process not just bearable—they make it actually enjoyable. Pop the tail into the channel, bury it between the layers, pull it through, trim.
Pop, bury, pull, trim. You develop a rhythm. The stack of buried tails grows. The project gets closer to finished.
How to Bury a Thread Tail With an Easy Thread Needle
Here’s the basic process. For the full step-by-step tutorial, watch the YouTube video linked below.
What you need:
John James top-loading easy thread needle
Your quilt with thread tails to bury
Small scissors
The process:
Guide the thread tail into the top-loading channel to thread the needle
Bring the top thread to the back of the quilt.
Make the knot of your choice about ¼” from the base then insert the needle tip into the quilt layers at the point where the tail exits the fabric
Run the needle between the fabric layers and back out again about an inch or two away from there you inserted it.
Gently pull the needle and thread tail through being sure to pull the knot to the inside of the layers.
Pull the needle and thread a little more and trim the tail close to the fabric surface.
Smooth the fabric and the tail disappears into the layers
The thread tail vanishes. No knot on the back. No visible evidence it was ever there. Just a clean, professional finish.
The “Also Starring” Features
Winning at Thread Chicken
Thread chicken: the act of absolutely believing—with your whole heart—that you can squeeze just a few more stitches out of that rapidly shortening thread length if you simply believe hard enough.
Wishcraft is wonderful. Tinker Bell told us so. But clapping your hands and believing is not going to make that thread reach the end of the line.
When thread chicken claims another victim and you end up with a tail so short it’s practically a suggestion, the top-loading channel is your secret weapon. Easy thread needles need just enough tail to catch in the top-loading channel, bury, and disappear.
The Broken Thread Mid-Quilt
We have all experienced the heartbreak of a mid-line thread break. Whether the thread tension was off and the break happens in the middle of quilting or the quilting thread on a well-loved quilt gives way and snaps, sometimes it just happens. Mid-project, mid-layer, mid-everything, and suddenly you have a short tail that needs to be dealt with. Normally, we would have to take out enough stitches to have a thread tail that could be pulled through the eye of a regular needle. But, with easy thread needles, all we need to do is take out enough stitches to catch in the top-thread channel. To use the least amount of thread possible, partially insert the needle into the fabric first to shorten the distance from the quilt surface to the thread, guide the short tail into the channel, and pull it through to bury it. Repeat on the other side of the break and then you can machine or hand stitch the gap in the line of stitching so it looks like nothing ever happened. Problem solved without drama.
Threading in Low Light (Or When Your Bifocals Aren’t Cooperating)
We’re just going to say it: threading a traditional needle when your eyes are tired, the light is low, or your bifocals just aren’t focal-ing as well as they used to is an exercise in frustration that nobody needs.
Top-loading easy thread needles require zero precision threading. Guide the thread into the channel until you feel that “pop” that tells you the thread is secured. Done. Your eyes will thank you.
The Bottom Line
We went from nearly leaving a needle permanently inside a quilt to genuinely enjoying the tail-burying process. That’s not a small thing. Finishing a quilt should feel like a celebration, not a chore.
John James top-loading easy thread needles are the only easy thread needles in our studio now. They thread fast, move cleanly through fabric and batting, and make the most tedious part of quilt finishing actually satisfying.
Bonus: Our easy thread needles origin story revolved around quilting but Colonial Needle Company has easy thread needles in a variety of sizes from cross-stitch to sharps. From cross-stitch to fine detail embroidery, hand sewing to quilting, we’ve been able to find an easy thread needle that does the job beautifully.
If you’ve given up on easy thread needles before, we understand. Try the top-loading version. It’s different. It’s better. And it won’t get stuck in your batting and you can keep stitching for longer even when your bifocals aren’t cooperating.
Cross stitch on linen and evenweave has a look all its own—soft texture, delicate detail, and beautifully defined stitches. But these fabrics behave differently than standard Aida cloth, and the needle you choose can dramatically affect both your stitching experience and your finished results.
If your thread twists, your fabric holes seem difficult to find, or your stitches feel bulky or uneven, your needle may be working against you instead of with you.
Let’s explore how the right needle supports smoother, more precise stitching on linen and evenweave fabrics.
The Stitching Scenario
Cross stitch on linen & evenweave
These fabrics are favorites for:
Heirloom samplers
Detailed counted cross stitch
Specialty stitches
Fine monogramming
Elegant finishing projects
Unlike Aida, linen and evenweave require stitching “over two” fabric threads, making precision and visibility especially important.
The Common Challenges
When stitching on linen or evenweave, stitchers often notice:
Difficulty seeing fabric holes
Twisted or worn thread
Uneven stitch tension
Splitting fabric threads accidentally
Eye strain or hand fatigue during detailed work
These fabrics reward precision—but they also require the right tool for the job.
Why the Right Tool Matters
Several needle characteristics improve stitching on linen and evenweave:
Point Style
This is where personal preference often comes into play.
Many stitchers use blunt tapestry needles because they slide between fabric threads without piercing the weave. They’re especially helpful for maintaining fabric structure and preventing thread splitting.
However, many experienced linen stitchers prefer chenille needles for cross stitch on linen and evenweave. Because chenille needles have a sharp point paired with a large eye, they allow for more precise hole placement—especially on higher-count fabrics or natural linens where holes can be harder to see.
The best choice often depends on:
fabric count
lighting and visibility
stitching style
personal comfort
Eye Size
The eye should comfortably accommodate your floss without causing fraying or drag.
Needle Size
A finer needle works better on higher-count fabrics because it passes easily through smaller openings without enlarging holes.
Needle Length
Comfort matters—some stitchers prefer shorter needles for control, while others like slightly longer needles for rhythm and grip.
The goal is smooth movement through the fabric with minimal resistance.
Our Recommendation: Needles for Cross Stitch on Linen & Evenweave
Tapestry Needles – Sizes 24–28
A classic choice for counted cross stitch. Their blunt point glides between fabric threads, helping preserve the weave and reduce accidental splitting.
These are especially popular for:
standard cross stitch,
lower-count fabrics,
and stitchers who prefer a softer feel against the fabric.
Chenille Needles – Sizes 24–28
A favorite among many linen stitchers, chenille needles combine:
a sharp point,
a long eye,
and easy threading.
The sharp tip allows for more precise hole placement, which can be especially helpful on:
high-count linen,
uneven natural fibers,
specialty stitches,
or projects stitched “over two.”
Many stitchers find chenille needles easier to control when fabric holes are less visually defined.
Pro Tip: Try Both
If you’ve only ever stitched linen with tapestry needles, try a chenille needle on your next project—or vice versa.
Some stitchers love the glide of a tapestry needle, while others prefer the precision of a sharp chenille point. Small differences in point style can dramatically change how comfortable and accurate stitching feels.
There’s no universal “best” needle—only the one that works best for you and your fabric.
Special Considerations for Higher-Count Fabrics
As fabric count increases:
Needle size generally decreases
Smaller eyes reduce bulk
Finer needles help maintain fabric structure
Using a needle that’s too large can distort stitches and widen holes over time.
Reader Takeaway: Quick Checklist
When stitching on linen or evenweave:
✔ Point depends on preference, but try a blunt tapestry needle or sharp chenille when starting a new project ✔ Match needle size to fabric count ✔ Use finer needles for higher-count fabrics ✔ Avoid forcing the needle through the weave
Small adjustments create cleaner, more even stitches.
Looking Ahead
Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for portable summer stitching and travel projects—because great stitching should go wherever you do.
Until then, enjoy the rhythm and precision that linen and evenweave bring to every stitch.
As spring settles in, quilting projects often come back into focus. Whether you’re finishing a winter quilt or starting something new, hand quilting offers a rhythm that’s both productive and calming.
From traditional, fine hand quilting to the bold, modern look of big stitch quilting, the tools you choose can dramatically shape both your experience and your results.
If your stitches feel inconsistent, your needle is difficult to control, or your hands tire quickly, the issue may not be your technique—it may be your needle.
Let’s explore how the right needle supports both traditional and big stitch quilting.
The Stitching Scenario
Hand quilting & big stitch quilting
This includes:
Traditional hand quilting with small, even stitches
Big stitch quilting using thicker thread
Quilting through layered cotton, batting, and backing
Finishing quilt edges or adding decorative quilting
These techniques require stitching through multiple layers, which makes needle choice especially important.
The Common Challenges
When hand quilting, stitchers often experience:
Difficulty rocking the needle through layers
Uneven stitch size
Needle bending or breaking
Hand fatigue or finger strain
Trouble maintaining a smooth stitching rhythm
Layered fabrics and batting create resistance, so the needle must be both strong and responsive.
Why the Right Tool Matters
For quilting, a few key needle characteristics make all the difference:
Length & Flexibility Shorter needles are easier to rock in a quilting motion, while slightly flexible needles help create even stitches.
Shaft Strength The needle must be strong enough to pass through multiple layers without bending.
Eye Size A small eye works well for fine quilting thread, while a larger eye is necessary for thicker threads used in big stitch quilting.
Point Style A sharp point helps penetrate layers cleanly, reducing strain on your hands.
Choosing the right combination allows for smoother stitching and better control.
Our Recommendation: Needles for Hand Quilting
Betweens (Quilting Needles) – Sizes 8–10 These short, slightly stiff needles are designed specifically for traditional hand quilting. Their length makes it easier to rock the needle and create small, even stitches.
Sharps – Sizes 7–9 A versatile option for quilters who prefer a slightly longer needle or need more reach through thicker layers.
Our Recommendation: Needles for Big Stitch Quilting
Embroidery (Crewel) Needles – Sizes 5–7 With a longer eye, these are ideal for accommodating thicker threads like perle cotton while maintaining a sharp point for easy stitching.
Longer Sharps – Sizes 5–7 Helpful for creating longer, more visible stitches with a smooth, steady rhythm.
Pro Tip: Find Your Rhythm
Hand quilting is as much about rhythm as technique.
Load several stitches onto your needle at once (the “rocking” method)
Keep your grip relaxed
Let the needle do the work
If stitching feels forced, try a different needle size or length—comfort and consistency go hand in hand.
Special Considerations for Batting & Layers
Different batting types affect how your needle performs:
Cotton batting offers more resistance and may require a stronger needle
Poly or blends are easier to pass through but still benefit from a sharp point
If you feel resistance, don’t force the needle—adjust your tool instead.
Reader Takeaway: Quick Checklist
When hand quilting:
✔ Choose short needles (betweens) for fine stitches ✔ Use longer needles for big stitch quilting ✔ Match eye size to your thread thickness ✔ Let the needle move smoothly through layers—don’t force it
The right needle helps you stitch with ease and consistency.
Looking Ahead
Next month in The Right Tool for the Stitch, we’ll explore needle choices for cross stitch on linen and evenweave—where precision and fabric awareness are key.
Until then, enjoy the rhythm of stitching and the satisfaction of bringing your quilt to life, one stitch at a time.
As spring projects become more creative and expressive, it’s the perfect time to introduce a stitch that goes beyond basic threadwork.
The couching stitch allows you to work with thicker threads, yarns, and even ribbons by securing them to the fabric surface with small stitches. The result? Bold texture, striking lines, and endless creative possibilities.
If you’re looking to add dimension and personality to your stitching, couching is a technique worth exploring.
What Is a Couching Stitch?
The couching stitch is a technique where a thicker thread (or material) is laid on top of the fabric and secured in place with smaller stitches using a separate thread.
Instead of passing the main thread through the fabric, it “rests” on the surface — while the smaller stitches anchor it down.
This makes couching ideal for materials that are too thick, delicate, or decorative to stitch through the fabric directly.
When & How It’s Used
Couching is incredibly versatile and works well in both traditional and modern stitching.
It’s best for:
Decorative outlines and bold lines
Working with thick threads, yarn, or ribbon
Adding texture to embroidery designs
Highlighting shapes or lettering
Mixed-media or creative textile projects
It’s especially popular in contemporary embroidery and fiber art, where texture and layering play a big role.
Why You Should Never Struggle to Thread a Needle Again
We’ve all been there: you’re in the flow of a beautiful Sashiko piece or a delicate EPP project, and then… you have to re-thread. Suddenly, you’re squinting, snipping thread ends, and losing your “stitching zen.”
At a recent workshop, we realized that while most of us know what a needle threader is, many of us aren’t using the right one or we weren’t taught how to use them. Since our friends at Colonial Needle Company sent us their full lineup to test, we’re breaking down which threader belongs in your kit and how to use them for both hand and machine sewing.
Meet the Lineup
Not all needle threaders are created equal. Depending on your project, you might need a different “wand”:
Colonial Dual Threader: This is the one that lives in our sewing machine tray. It features a long handle (perfect for reaching into tight machine spaces) and two different wire sizes: a standard end and an extra-large end for thicker threads or Pearl Cotton
Ultrafine Threader with Cutter: The “must-have” for Sashiko and fine appliqué. The wire is incredibly thin to fit through tiny needle eyes, and the built-in cutter means you don’t have to reach for your scissors every time you finish a strand.
Roxanne Needle Threaders: If you do a lot of hand quilting or beading, these are legendary. They are patented, exceptionally fine, and designed to be sturdy enough for repetitive use without the wire snapping.
John James Threaders: These are the gold standard for traditional hand sewing. They are simple, reliable, and come in various sizes to match your favorite John James needles.
How to Use a Needle Threader (The Correct Way!)
For Hand Sewing:
The Insert: Hold the needle threader by the handle and slide the wire loop through the eye of your needle.
The Thread: Pass your thread through the large wire loop (not the tiny needle eye!).
The Pull: Gently pull the wire loop back through the needle eye. The wire will carry the thread right through.
For Machine Sewing:
The Positioning: Ensure your needle is in the highest position.
The Reach: Using the Colonial Dual Threader, insert the wire loop through the needle eye from the back to the front (or side to side, depending on your machine).
The Magic: Place your thread in the loop and pull the threader back through.
Pro Tip: If you’re using the Ultrafine Threader, be gentle! These are high-precision tools. If the wire feels stuck, don’t force it—ensure your thread weight is appropriate for your needle size.
Watch the Step-by-Step
Want to see these in action? We filmed a quick tutorial demonstrating exactly how we use the Ultrafine Threader for Sashiko and the Dual Threader at the machine.
It’s funny how the simplest tools can sometimes be the most intimidating… until someone shows you the trick! Whether you’re a lifelong quilter or just starting your first Sashiko project, there is no shame in reaching for a ‘magic wand’ to save your eyes (and your sanity).
Now we want to hear from you: Is there a tool in your sewing tray that you still aren’t quite sure how to use? Or maybe you have a threading hack of your own? Let’s chat in the comments below!
