Category Archives: Patterns

Kogin-zashi Bookmark

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Kogin is completely different than anything else we have ever done before. We love learning and exploring new-to-us techniques and styles of making all the things and kogin-zashi was ticking all the boxes. Creating these gorgeous stitch patterns with such a mindful practice is exciting for us and keeps us motivated to create and explore further. We particularly loved applying kogin to some of our own garment designs and to projects that are common fair among sewists and crafters. Kogin adds a next level of richness to these projects and adds to our understanding of textile creation and use.

Kogin-zashi is a type of darned embroidery meaning the stitches lay closely against one another to reinforce and enhance the base fabric the stitches are worked onto. Kogin is a type of counted thread work with a shared DNA evident in other forms of darned embroidery, counted threadwork, pattern darning, and needle weaving from Norway, Yugoslavia, Ukraine, Medieval Middle Eastern counted thread embroidery, and Mamluk pattern darning found in the Middle East and Egypt.

Like other forms of sashiko, kogin-zashi was created by Japanese folx living in cold climates with short growing seasons. Kogin needlework was originally done to reinforce and fortify fabric not as a leisure craft but as a necessity for survival. At the time kogin-zashi was developed (Edo Period, 1603-1867), cotton was a scarce commodity due to the short growing season and the overall cold climate of the Tsugaru region, Aomori, Japan – kogin-zashi’s area of origin. In addition to the scarcity of cotton, it was forbidden for use as a garment fabric by anyone but the ruling class in Japan. This meant folx used fibers derived from plants like ramie, hemp, and tree barks to weave their cloth. Unlike cotton fabric, such fabric does not offer optimal protection from the elements and layering did not provide the needed protection either. Being resourceful, and downright clever, they used kogin stitches made with cotton thread to fill in the gaps in the woven fabric. This created a denser fabric that provided protection and warmth while skirting the strict laws regarding cotton’s use in garment fabric. Fabrics with kogin stitching are complex and dense and contain patterns from geometric borders and lines to intricate key forms and tiled marvels of design. Kogin-zashi fabric is inherently practical but through the lens of time, this practical handwork task has become art and the craft we love today.

Kogin-zashi designs are created by counting the vertical threads of the base fabric and working the needle over and under those threads following the space between the horizontal threads (warp threads) of the base fabric. The stitches are worked into the spaces created by the intersection of the horizontal and vertical threads, filling in the gaps in the woven fabric.

Kogin-zashi was not used to reinforce fabrics by fastening down patches or binding together multiple layers of fabric. Instead, kogin reinforces fabric by weaving thread between the vertical and horizontal threads of loosely woven fabric. The result is a denser fabric that is stronger, more durable, offers greater protection from the elements and, without a doubt, is stunning to behold. Modern kogin-zashi, uses embroidery floss, thread or even fine weight yarns with evenweave fabric such as Congress Cloth, Davosa, or Lugana to create projects.

We discovered kogin-zashi as part of our research for our book Boro & Sashiko: Harmonious Imperfection. We were most excited by the intricate designs created by easy one line at a time stitching. For us, the most exciting part of kogin is how accessible it is as a skill. Regardless of their background as makers and creators, folx can learn the introductory parts of needle handling and pattern reading, almost immediately creating complex graphic designs on fabric. It’s exciting to see the results unfold one line at a time right before your eyes and it motivates you to keep stitching so see that happen. Even if folx have never done hand needlework before, they are going to be able to pick up kogin-zashi and make something right away. The instant gratification factor is big with this craft. For folx who are familiar with handwork and needlework, this is a refreshing change from the norm and we believe they are going to find the same exhilaration and satisfaction we have from this form that is juuuuuuust different enough to be exciting but not so different that is alienating.

For this project, we created a woven knot motif. The pattern was originally released as part of our Maker’s Moments series of workshops on our website at shannonandjason.com. To learn more about kogin-zashi and other forms of sashiko, checkout our books Boro & Sashiko – Harmonious Imperfection and Contemporary Kogin-zashi. Both titles are available on our website at shannonandjason.com or from your favorite local bookseller.

Find the instructions here.

Find the pattern here.

As always, Stitch On!

Shannon & Jason

DIY Fabric Cards

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Fabric cards are the perfect way to add a little OMPH to your gift giving and they show that you really do care enough to send something handmade…even if you don’t have a lot of spare time or the extra brain capacity for a larger project. Easy to customize to any size for any occasion (maybe a certain winter holiday that is coming up?), fabric cards show you went that extra mile and put thought and effort into the gift-giving experience. They make that special person receiving the card feel seen and appreciated. Fabric cards have a distinctive handmade quality that is hard to replicate with mass-produced, store-bought cards and it is this uniqueness that adds charm and character to your gift.

They are super easy to make! Fabric scraps are pretty inexpensive and if you are already a sewist or know someone who is, you might already have the materials you need to create your own mini textile masterpiece. Add some quilting or embroidery and your creation really goes to the next level. You can hand stitch, applique, or machine embroider each one for a one-of-a-kind product. We used Finca Metallic Thread to hand embroider our fabric cards. Send yours as postcards, framed miniature textile art, gift tags, or leave one side open to insert a gift card. However you use them, if you are like us, you will end up making several *ahem* extra which is a good thing because you never know when you will need a little piece of handmade excellence to add to your gifting.

Here is how we make ours.

Supplies:

  • Fusible interfacing or stabilizer
  • Fabric scraps (1–2”wide and long enough to cover your card)
  • Finca Metallic Thread – 1 Ply for machine embroidery, 2 Ply for hand stitching.
  • Crewel Needle–Large eye and sharp tip make easy work of the layers
  • Sewing machine with all-purpose thread and jeans needle or embroidery needle
  • Roxanne Glue–Glue Stick or Dip & Dab XL Tube
  • Cover Stock Paper or similar for backing (we like Kraft-Tex for sturdy projects)
    Note: You can use cotton fabric for the backing too. The end result is not as“cardlike”.
  • Scissors or rotary cutter

Cuts:

Cut stabilizer/interfacing to your desired size – Standard post card size is 4”x6” but you can make your cards any size you like
Cut paper backing to the same size as stabilizer

Instructions:

  1. Place strips of fabric on the stabilizer deciding on placement, color, texture, ect.
  2. Remove your chosen strips and place the center strip face up on the stabilizer. We like using diagonal lines, so our first strip covers from the top left corner to the bottom right. You do you though…
  3. Place an adjacent strip on top of the first one with Right sides facing. Sew the seam using a 1/4’’ to 3/8’’ seam allowance. Make sure the fabric covers past the edge.
  4. Press the seam open being careful to watch if your stabilizer has a fusible backing (you can also finger press the seam open as well).
  5. Continue in this manner sewing strips on one at a time moving in one direction.
  6. Once you have covered the first half, turn your card and repeat the process goingf rom the center to the opposite corner.
  7. Once the stabilizer is completely covered turn Right side down and trim off the excessfabric.
  8. Secure the last 2 corners using a glue stick or Roxanne Dip & Dab XL Tube
  9. Add embroidery to your card by hand or machine.
    a. If embroidering by hand use Finca 2-Ply Metallic Thread held double.
    b. If machine embroidering use Finca 1-Ply Metallic Thread as your top thread and all-purpose thread in the bobbin.
  10. Once embroidery is complete apply the paper back to the card.
    a. If your stabilizer has a fusible back you can use an iron to secure otherwise glue the card to the back
    b. If you are using the fabric card as a gift card holder skip this step.
  11. Machine or hand sew a zig-zag or edging stitch around the card to secure the edge.
    a. We specifically like using fabric cards as holders for gift cards…just leave one side open so you can slide the card inside the pocket
    b. If you want to use a satin stitch along the edge, use a fabric backing instead of paper. The punching of the needle that many times will perforate the backing causing it to tear off easily.

Optional: Use a hole punch in one corner of the finished card and thread it with sparkly thread oryarn as a beautiful gift tag.

Gift cards like this can be mailed using standard postage…you’ll need to weigh the item to ensure you have enough postage attached to it. They do tend to get dirty in the mail so we opt for mailing them in an envelope.

For a video tutorial visit our YouTube page here.

We hope you decide to make a few fabric cards this season for your loved ones…let us know how you like them!

Shannon & Jason

Presencia Perle and…Crochet Hooks?!

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We love finding new ways to use crafting tools, techniques, and materials outside of their original, intended use. When the folx at Colonial Needle Company asked us to check out Presencia thread and do a project, we immediately went to embroidery since that is what we have always had a supply of Presencia around for. To be specific, we have a supply of Presencia Perle #5 and #3 on hand because we like to use it for general embroidery, but also for mending projects where we need a beautifully chunky thread to really pop off the surface of our fabric. So, yeah, we could have done some sashiko or boro or some freeform embroidery. We considered that. We also considered using it as part of a floral embroidery piece we are doing on a pair of jeans a la your auntie who hung out at Woodstock. We could have done any or all of those things because that is exactly what we have Presencia’s Perle thread for. But, as we said, we love finding new ways to use materials that are a bit outside of their original intent.

Soooo…Out came the crochet hooks!

Now, this isn’t the first time we have made crochet pieces using sewing and embroidery threads and we have patterns for skirts and tops using crochet threads. We just knew the Presencia Perle #3 weight thread was going to work beautifully for crochet. And the fact that it comes in those cute little balls/spools and sets of color combos (the sets we have are the Crayon Sampler, Scarlet Sampler, and Yuletide Sampler) makes them prime for some delicious little projects with crochet motifs. With that in mind, we set to swatching.

First were granny squares which turned out FAB and got us thinking about a larger project using a set of samplers in the future…stay tuned for that. Then we did some round motifs and DING! A light went on: earrings!

Virtually any crochet motif made in thread can be made into earrings. One more test motif and that was it; our Boho Crochet Earrings were born. And we didn’t even have to break out the steel crochet hooks! We actually used a C–2.75mm hook from a standard crochet hook set and, once it was blocked into shape, the finished motif held up beautifully. Yes, Shannon tested them out by wearing them the rest of the day…they are so good!

The Presencia Perle #3 weight thread is very different from working with yarn because the twist of the 2-ply thread creates ridges along the finished surface of the thread. This gives it that sheen with light and shadow reflecting off the surface of the thread but it also means that the thread has some grip to it when it is used in crochet. The stitches almost lock into place when stitched into crochet stitches and blocking further locks the stitches in place. This means projects like these earrings need only a good steam blocking with no starch. The finished earrings have a gorgeous texture to them and are ready to wear immediately after finishing.

Ready to make your own?

Grab your favorite color of Presencia Perle #3 thread, a C–2.75mm crochet hook, and our pattern which can be found below. The pattern includes the instructions for making the earrings as well as the stitch chart and all of the special stitches, techniques, and finishing instructions. Stitch, block, attach your earring findings and you’re ready to wear!

Just be warned: get used to saying “Thanks! I made them!” a lot.

Have fun! And be sure to share your makes with us on Instagram and tag Colonial Needle Company(@colonialneedleco) and us, Shannon and Jason (@embracethecreativechaos) so we can see your creations.

STITCH ON!!
S&J

Crochet Earring Free PatternDownload