We love finding new ways to use crafting tools, techniques, and materials outside of their original, intended use. When the folx at Colonial Needle Company asked us to check out Presencia thread and do a project, we immediately went to embroidery since that is what we have always had a supply of Presencia around for. To be specific, we have a supply of Presencia Perle #5 and #3 on hand because we like to use it for general embroidery, but also for mending projects where we need a beautifully chunky thread to really pop off the surface of our fabric. So, yeah, we could have done some sashiko or boro or some freeform embroidery. We considered that. We also considered using it as part of a floral embroidery piece we are doing on a pair of jeans a la your auntie who hung out at Woodstock. We could have done any or all of those things because that is exactly what we have Presencia’s Perle thread for. But, as we said, we love finding new ways to use materials that are a bit outside of their original intent.
Soooo…Out came the crochet hooks!
Now, this isn’t the first time we have made crochet pieces using sewing and embroidery threads and we have patterns for skirts and tops using crochet threads. We just knew the Presencia Perle #3 weight thread was going to work beautifully for crochet. And the fact that it comes in those cute little balls/spools and sets of color combos (the sets we have are the Crayon Sampler, Scarlet Sampler, and Yuletide Sampler) makes them prime for some delicious little projects with crochet motifs. With that in mind, we set to swatching.
First were granny squares which turned out FAB and got us thinking about a larger project using a set of samplers in the future…stay tuned for that. Then we did some round motifs and DING! A light went on: earrings!
Virtually any crochet motif made in thread can be made into earrings. One more test motif and that was it; our Boho Crochet Earrings were born. And we didn’t even have to break out the steel crochet hooks! We actually used a C–2.75mm hook from a standard crochet hook set and, once it was blocked into shape, the finished motif held up beautifully. Yes, Shannon tested them out by wearing them the rest of the day…they are so good!
The Presencia Perle #3 weight thread is very different from working with yarn because the twist of the 2-ply thread creates ridges along the finished surface of the thread. This gives it that sheen with light and shadow reflecting off the surface of the thread but it also means that the thread has some grip to it when it is used in crochet. The stitches almost lock into place when stitched into crochet stitches and blocking further locks the stitches in place. This means projects like these earrings need only a good steam blocking with no starch. The finished earrings have a gorgeous texture to them and are ready to wear immediately after finishing.
Ready to make your own?
Grab your favorite color of Presencia Perle #3 thread, a C–2.75mm crochet hook, and our pattern which can be found below. The pattern includes the instructions for making the earrings as well as the stitch chart and all of the special stitches, techniques, and finishing instructions. Stitch, block, attach your earring findings and you’re ready to wear!
Just be warned: get used to saying “Thanks! I made them!” a lot.
Have fun! And be sure to share your makes with us on Instagram and tag Colonial Needle Company(@colonialneedleco) and us, Shannon and Jason (@embracethecreativechaos) so we can see your creations.
There are so many ways to applique, both by hand and by machine. For many stitchers, the word “applique” is not pleasant. I avoided it when I first began making quilt tops, even though I do love to work with my hands. And…I am somewhat less annoying when I am hand stitching. I well remember the first time I saw a young woman doing needle turn applique at a quilt show several years ago. I was amazed at how easily she shaped the heart applique and made nearly invisible stitches. The appliqued heart appeared to float on the background fabric. I knew that was something I wanted to learn to do. Now, however, there are several things that I especially enjoy about needle turn applique.
Thing 1: For needle turn applique, I spend very little time on preparation for stitching, as opposed to prepared applique techniques. I can more leisurely spend time stitching, and less time turning the seam allowance and securing it with glue, starch and a hot iron or basting thread, etc. Not to be negative about prepared applique, however, there certainly are advantages, about which I will write in blogs to come.
Thing 2: I love using these Milliners Needles from John James in a size 10 for hand applique. The Signature Collection needles are manufactured of the finest steel, polished so they smoothly glide through fabric. The points of these needles are so sharp that they pierce rather than push the fabric, which is so helpful for accuracy, and allows me to continue stitching for a longer period of time. The longer length of Milliners needles allows me to smoothly sweep under the seam allowance. To be more specific, I sweep the seam allowance under the extended thumbnail of my fabric-holding left hand. That thumbnail is a great tool, and I suggest it on my workshop supply lists. A claw-length thumbnail is not necessary, but long enough to secure the seam allowance in place as you use your Milliners needle and 60 weight thread.
Thing 3: There are several things about thread that also help to make your hand applique stitches nearly, if not completely, invisible. Remember: The bigger the number, the finer the thread, and hand sewing needles. Just like us: the more candles on our birthday cakes, the finer we are!! (Machine sewing needles are just the opposite.) My thread of choice for hand applique is Presencia Finca 50-weight or 60-weight, preferably 60-weight if I can get a good color match with the applique fabric. Another memory: when I began hand applique, I used a thread color that matched the background, and no matter how hard I tried, my stitches showed. Then my internal light bulb came on and I tried a thread color to match the applique fabric. BINGO! What a winner of an idea!!
Now here’s another tip about thread color: unwind a length of thread, about 10 inches from the spool and puddle it on the applique fabric, rather than just laying the spool of thread on top of the applique, like we learned in high school Home Economics when making garments. If your applique fabric is multi-colored, make sure that the puddle of thread touches all of the colors. When in doubt, audition/puddle another color of thread, step back, look away, then look again. Make your choice.
One more thing! If your applique fabric has many strong colors, try auditioning Presencia 60-weight thread, color #352. It is a great gray neutral, and just might work well. It is also my thread color of choice for more most of my machine piecing, and 60-weight thread is so fine that it helps with machine piecing accuracy.
Thing 4: The needle threading and weight are the next important things that help your applique appear to float on top of the background. I thread my Milliners Needle from the spool of Presencia 60-weight thread and leave about a 4” thread tail at the eye end of the needle. Pinching the thread at the eye of the needle, I unwind the spool to about the middle of my upper arm (former muscle) and cut the thread straight across with sharp scissors. This end is where I make a tiny quilter’s knot that becomes buried beneath the background or between the background and applique. The eye of these Signature Collection needles is so smooth that your thread will not shred. And, Presencia thread is 100% long staple Egyptian cotton, which is smooth and so strong because it is 3-ply, another huge advantage of using these needles and threads. Especially important as you are also using your time, energy and creative efforts to make something beautiful and lasting.
One more thing before your stitch: adhere an adhesive Needle Grip-It circle to your forefinger and one to the thumb of your needle stitchin’ and pullin’ hand. This is so helpful in relieving stress from the repetitive motion of hand sewing, allowing you to sit and stitch with ease. You won’t even notice the Grip-Its are there!
Thing 5: Now for the nearly invisible stitch. Prepare to stitch by making a “puppet” of your background by folding the outer edge, opposite of where you will be stitching, then gently roll the fold until your thumbnail is on top of the seam allowance of the applique. The neat roll of fabric will be nestled in the palm of your hand rather than all scrunched up. This helps prevent unnecessary wrinkles in your fabrics and helps to make your stitches more precise. It also helps relieve stress on your hand. If possible, begin where there is a straight or nearly straight side on your applique, and with your needle, sweep the seam allowance under your less dominant hand thumbnail, making sure that the marking of the seam allowance is just folded under. About 1/4” away from the folded edge of the applique, beneath the background fabric, or between applique fabric and background, come up just on the tiny edge of the fold of the applique, actually more to the back of the fold if possible, and pierce a couple threads of the applique fold with your needle. Slowly, to avoid knotting your thread, pull the thread through the edge of the folded seam allowance, keeping your thumbnail on top of the fold. Give a little tug on the thread near the end, then insert your needle into the background just beneath the fold where your thread came through the applique. Note: if you insert your needle to the left or the right or away from the fold, it WILL show, I promise.
Thing 6: Now, begin the next stitch by gently moving your thumbnail slightly away from the first stitch, and sweep the seam allowance under your thumbnail with the side of your needle. This is where the length of a Milliners Needle is so helpful. Depending on the weave of your fabric, you may need to use the point of the needle to position the seam allowance so that the mark of the seamline does not show. Then, sliding your needle about 1/16” or less beneath the background, come up on the back edge of the folded seam allowance, pierce the back edge of the fold, catching a couple of threads of the applique and slowly pull the thread upward. Tip: if your thread color so closely matches the applique, to find where to piece the background, gently pull the thread away from the applique, extending over the background, making a right angle with the thread to the edge of the fold. Now, tuck the point of your needle just under the fold, slide beneath and come up slightly away from your last stitch. Be patient with yourself if you are a beginning beginner or even an advanced beginner. This is the work of your hands, not computer-generated, which in my opinion, is of great value. Learning, doing, and practicing are so valuable.
Thing 7: Keep going, but take some breaks. I also highly recommend using a lighted magnifier directly over your work and your hands as you stitch. Using a lighted magnifier right over my sewing hands allows me to continue what I love to do, sculpting fabric and making pretty things. My eyes are rested, my hands are not sore, and I am relaxed with the process of hand applique, especially if I rest my work and my hands on a pillow on my lap as I stitch. A pillow for your lap is also on my workshop supply lists. It can be used for a nap as needed…
I have read that we can learn from our mistakes, therefore I have certainly learned a lot. Be kind to yourself, and others. Take someone under your wings and share what you have learned and what works well for you. Thank you for taking your time to read and try these tips, tricks, and techniques. I hope they are helpful.
Do I have thread? Yes, but not just any old thread. This request by a dear quilting friend, Sue, reminds me of my mother and neighbors borrowing and loaning a cup of sugar, flour, or stick of butter. It’s just something neighbors do, especially when you live in the country as Sue and I do.
Sue had ever so generously offered to machine quilt a huggable quilt for a child that another dear quilting friend, Debbie, had lovingly hand appliqued. Debbie created colorful, one-of-a-kind lollipop flowers atop variegated jumbo rick rack stems. She is as amazingly creative with small scraps of fabric as Sue is when she performs machine magic stipple quilting.
Stipple quilting looks somewhat like connected jigsaw puzzle pieces. The feed dogs of the sewing machine are disengaged, allowing the quilter to freely move about the quilt sandwich and stitch curvy lines. This quilting technique is perfect for quilting the background of each block, while making the appliqued flowers “pop”. Sue has generously offered to teach me to machine stipple quilt, and I look forward to practicing by making lots of pot holders. Sue’s stipple quilting was the perfect finishing touch to make those happy flowers come alive on that cheerful child’s quilt. And…the Presencia 40-weight thread that Sue borrowed was the perfect thread for quilting.
A few days later, I received a call from Sue, and she was so excited. She had completed the machine quilting and was raving about what a difference the thread made in the process as well as the appearance of the completed quilt. To paraphrase Sue: “The thread did not break! It is so strong! The stipple quilting was more consistent, and there was virtually no lint in the bobbin area when finished. Tell me more about this spool of white thread!” I simply could not contain myself. I happily told Sue about the thread she “borrowed,” and I am happy to share with you as well.
Presencia is the name of that wonderful thread, and yes, not all thread is alike. There is a definite difference. Presencia begins with the very best 100% long staple Egyptian cotton, mercerized for strength, and is both colorfast and shrinkfast. The long staple fiber and superior quality of Egyptian cotton results in the very best quality thread. Somewhat like making a from-scratch lemon meringue pie, when you begin with fresh eggs, a real lemon, and the best ingredients, you simply cannot eat just one piece of that pie.
Also keep in mind, that the bigger the number on the spool, the finer the sewing thread (and hand sewing needles). I “loaned” Sue a spool of 40-weight Presencia thread for machine quilting. Presencia sewing thread comes in 40, 50 and 60-weights. All three weights are 3-ply, which means that 3 strong strands are twisted together for extra strength, even the finest 60-weight. The strength and consistency of Egyptian fibers also make Presencia excellent for even bobbin stitches. Just fill your bobbin with the same weight as the top thread.
Presencia also comes in a variety of spool sizes, from 100, 500 and 600 meters, as well as cones. Check out Colonial Needle Company’s website for detailed information, as well as an assortment of color packs. Many beautiful colors are available.
Sue is sold on the ease of stitching with Presencia as well as the beauty of the finished quilting. The child who receives this happy quilt will also be able to love and drag it around and snuggle and snooze beneath its comfort for a long time.
Since my quilting neighbors and I live in the country, stocking up on Presencia thread is always a good idea when field trips to town and quilt shops are our destination. However, we are happy to share with dear quilting friends in need. Sometimes the best-learned lessons are hands on. Take someone under your wings and “loan” a spool of Presencia. Both you and your friends will be happy you did. It’s as good as, maybe even better than, loaning a cup of sugar. Now, to begin that from-scratch lemon meringue pie for Sue and Mike…
Let’s play a
word association game. What is the first word that comes to mind when you hear
or see the word “quilt”? Perhaps you think: bed covering, something old and
pretty, shopping at a special fabric store, a treasure made by one’s mother or
grandmother. A non-quilter would say blanket.
The next
word in this game is “yarn”: knit and crochet, needlepoint, handmade scarf,
hat, or sweater. I think of quilt making using yarn, especially Colonial Needle
Persian Wool Yarn.
As quilters
we are artists. We create something of beauty that is also functional. Some of
us follow directions to the letter. Others find ways to make a traditional
design unique and different. Still others enjoy using materials that are unique
and different. And then some just flat out like to play and see what
happens.
When
Colonial Needle Company first offered Persian Wool Yarn, I immediately thought
of wool applique. I have a passion for hand work, anything applique, and I love
to play. A heart shape is a good design on which to begin playing. It has
straight lines, curves, innie and outie points. I also like “wonky” as a design
element so I cut out a symmetrical heart shape from freezer paper (as I learned
to do in first grade…in the last century.) Then I trim one side to make it
wonky, as in one-of-a-kind. With a dry iron, I lightly press the shiny side of
my wonky freezer paper heart to felted wool, and cut out the shape next to the cut
edge of the freezer paper. Then I cut a piece of green wool on the bias, about
3/8” wide to make a stem that I could shape and bend.
Colonial
Persian Wool Yarn now comes in 8-yard cards. It is 3-ply and easy to separate
into individual strands. I arrange my wonky wool heart and stem on a
background, and glue in place with Roxanne’s Glue Baste-It. Using one strand of
wool yarn, I thread a John James needle, size 20, and begin stitching diagonal
lines from the bottom of the stem to the top. Then I turn the stem around and
repeat stitching on the diagonal down the stem so that the yarn crosses
somewhat in the middle. I tack the center of the x-stitches with yarn,
Presencia Perle Cotton, or floss or a bead.
All of that
worked well, so I began to blanket stitch around the heart with wool yarn. I
also like to applique wool by making running stitches with Perle Cotton size 8. Then,
I thread a John James Tapestry needle, size 20, with Persian Wool Yarn in a
contrasting color. Next, I slide the threaded needle under the running stitches
left to right and continue around the wool applique. One can also thread under
the running stitches by going back the other direction with yet another contrasting
color of Persian Wool Yarn. Or I can weave the yarn in and out from left to
right/right to left.
Playing with
Persian Wool Yarn also allows me to make French knots, colonial knots, and all
sorts of other embroidery stitches. If you are a little on the side of caution,
practice first on scraps of fabric…real quilters do have scraps. If you are a
new quilter, just ask an “old” quilter who is probably more than willing to
share. I am beginning to think that scraps breed in my scrap basket
overnight.
Wool applique and embroidery using wool yarn. Leaves on the left were originally wool fabric rather than embroidery.
I love
words, playing with them and stitching them, both using hand embroidery stitches
and hand applique. Write your name on a piece of lined paper, using at least 4
lines for capital letters and 2 lines for lower case. Tape the paper to a light
box or a window. Place background fabric on top, right side up and secure with
tape. Trace your name with a fine point mechanical pencil. Remove background. Thread
needle with wool yarn and embroider on the lines with a backstitch,
stem/outline stitch, or running stitch. You may want to use a hoop to stabilize
the fabric or baste a layer of muslin to the wrong side before stitching.
There is so
much more you can do with Colonial Needle Persian Wool Yarn as a quilter. This
is just the tip of the proverbial iceberg. Get out of your quilt box and try
using wool yarn for embellishing, sewing on buttons, couching, and braiding in
addition to applique and embroidery. Considering that each package contains 8
yards of 3-ply excellent quality wool yarn, and comes in many wonderful colors,
you can also become a quilt artist.
I have a
passion for hand applique, so when I discovered Presencia thread a number of
years ago, it was like a banana split on top of a devil’s food cake with chocolate
frosting and sprinkles!
Something
that helps me remember the thread sizes is this: As I am getting older, my
number is getting bigger and I consider myself as getting “finer.” The same
thing is true of needles and thread; the bigger the number, the finer the
thread and hand sewing needles. Machine sewing needle are the opposite. The
bigger the number, the bigger the needle.
There are
several reasons why I believe that Presencia is simply the best for both hand
and machine sewing.
THING 1: Presencia
thread begins with the very finest 100% long staple Egyptian cotton. When you
begin with a superior fiber, the result is an outstanding finished product. A
long-staple fiber means that the thread is virtually lint-free, a plus for you
and your sewing machine. Do your own testing: clean out the bobbin race of your
machine. Fill a bobbin and thread the top of the machine with Presencia. Sew to
your heart’s content. When your bobbin is empty, judge for yourself how clean
the bobbin case and area around the needle are.
THING 2: All
three weights of Presencia hand and machine sewing thread (40, 50, and 60
weight) are 3-ply. Plying, twisting three individual fibers together, makes the
thread stronger. As a hand and machine sewing enthusiast, strong thread is
important to me for the process of sewing as well as for the construction of
the finished product. Not all 50 and 60 weight brand X threads are 3-ply.
THING 3: Presencia 40 weight thread is strong, comes in many colors, and works well for hand and machine quilting, including long-arm machine quilting. I recommend using a John James size 90 machine quilting needle. For hand quilting, I use John James Gold ‘n Glide Big Eye size 10. These needles easily pierce the three layers of a quilt sandwich. The size of the Big Eye makes threading much easier for my AARP-age eyes.
THING 4: Presencia 50 weight thread, also 3-ply, is smaller in diameter than 40 weight. It is great for general hand and machine sewing, and is beautiful for machine applique. I generally recommend it for beginning hand applique students, since it is slightly larger than 60 weight and easier to see hand stitches. A Mary Arden Applique size 10 needle is recommended. This needle is sharp, pierces rather than pushes the fabric, and stays strong and straight. I also use 50 weight for top stitching because of its larger diameter and the large number of colors available.
THING 5: I had great difficulty with machine piecing accuracy when I first began quilt making. I had sewn and made garments for years, but quilt making is somewhat different. My first quilt, a baby log cabin, had ruffles…Machine piecing was so stressful, and the completed quilt was not a pretty sight. When I discovered Presencia 60 weight thread, my accuracy improved and my frustration disappeared! Because 60 weight is so fine and 3-ply strong, it does not take up the extra threads when machine piecing. I also prefer it for hand applique. It also comes in so many colors, and virtually disappears when doing hand applique. I use a Mary Arden Appliquers needle, size 10 for hand applique, and John James size 70 or 80 for machine sewing with 60 weight thread.
Stitching with Presencia threads makes hand and machine sewing most satisfying for me. Using the best products results in a satisfying experience as well as a quality product. I highly recommend Presencia threads as well as John James and Mary Arden needles. Now to the refrigerator to make that super-duper banana split, then sit and sew to my heart’s delight.
Working and
playing with wool is wonderful, whether it is wool for applique, a wool
background, or Persian Wool Yarn for stitching. It is also such a joy to stitch
with friends like the Blanco Quilters on the Square. We met together to learn,
stitch, and enjoy the company of like-minded friends for the day in the
charming hill country town of Blanco, Texas where there is more creativity and
generosity than one can shake the proverbial stick at.
Guild
members and several guests, including a teenage granddaughter, Nora, gathered
around several tables to conduct the necessary business of being a quilt guild,
promoting education, and serving the community. Then things heated up when we
turned on several crock pots and dyed wool using onion skins, transfer of color
from pieces of red and green wool, and dip-dyed with Kool Aid. While the wool
cooked, we discussed how and why to felt wool for applique, the benefit of
felting wool, and sources for obtaining this wonderful fiber.
Kits
contained everything needed to stitch an 11” square block that could be the
beginning of a table topper, book cover, or center of a table runner. Pattern
pieces were traced on freezer paper, cut out, and pressed to felted wool. Wool
shapes were then cut out and positioned on a white wool background. Students
were encouraged to use the accompanying photo for placement or to arrange
pieces of wool however they and their hearts desired. What a joy to see and
hear students interacting with each other, complimenting and encouraging
friends.
Happy stitching hearts!
In preparation for playing with threads, students were instructed to position Colonial Needle Grip-Its on forefinger and thumb on their dominant stitching hand. The repetitive motion of gripping and pulling a needle can result in hand and finger stress, but the Grip-Its are so helpful in pulling a needle through fabric. Then, Presencia Perle Cotton in several sizes, Presencia Floss, and Colonial Persian 100% Wool Yarn and their uses were demonstrated and samples were passed around. Students practiced threading John James Chenille and Tapestry Needles with Colonial Needle Threaders. Stripping floss for appliqueing with embroidery stitches was demonstrated. Students were encouraged to consider combining several strands of floss with a contrasting color of perle cotton just for fun, creating their own original variegated thread effect. We began appliqueing with a simple running stitch and chenille needle. Then, a tapestry needle was threaded with a contrasting color of thread to slide under the running stitches and weave back and forth, creating a one-of-a-kind serpentine effect.
Wool
applique is often done using a whip stitch with matching thread color. However,
playing with Colonial Persian Wool Yarn for applique was great fun. We talked
about how and where to begin a blanket stitch, wrapping a perle cotton running
stitch with wool yarn, appliqueing down the center of a leaf or around a heart
shape with a daisy chain and wool yarn, then wrapping the outside edge of the
stitch with a contrasting color of perle or floss.
We spent the
remainder of the afternoon playing with wool and threads, snacking on treats from
the dessert table, and doing the Great Reveal: showing the results of our crock
pot dyeing. Each dyed piece was a surprise, and several guild members went home
with samples. Quilters love door prizes!!
And I loved
spending the day with friends who were so eager to learn, to share, and to
stitch. Students were encouraged to return to next month’s guild meeting with a
completed wool applique piece from the class. I am always learning from my
students. My students inspired me to stitch and dye more with wool, and to vacuum
less…
